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96 GTX Carburetor Rebuild

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Some of the really early ones would break off so I wouldn't try to mess with the old ones.
The un-slotted ones would stick from suction I would guess and the slots allow the pressure to equalize under the rave.

Defiantly replace the o-rings and they get hot so I would use viton not regular rubber ones.
 
I have Nitrile/Buna-N and green HNBR o-ring kits. Nitrile/Buna-N is good up to 250 degrees F and HNBR is good up to 325 deg F.

Viton is good up to 437 deg , but I don’t have any Viton o-rings yet. A Viton o-ring kit from Harbor Freight is only $10.

That was much harder to get the front RAVE valve out as compared to the rear one. The rear one I had room to pull straight out, but I couldn’t pull the front one straight out because of interference from a large pipe. I ended up having to unscrew the top part off of the RAVE valve while the valve was still partially in the engine. There was barely room to unscrew that top part off, and then barely room to pull the bare RAVE valve out.

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I’m finding that using razor blades is working well to scrape the majority of the carbon off.

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This second gasket did not come off as cleanly as the first one. The green o-ring is an HNBR one from my o-ring collection. The OEM o-ring appears to be a standard size of -111.

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I think I am going to go with the HNBR o-rings that I have on hand and reusing the gaskets and see what happens. I plan on looking at the RAVE valves again at the end of the season, which is a lot quicker than before. It is apparent by the lack of paint chipping around the bolts that the RAVE valves have never been removed since being installed at the factory in 1996.
 
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