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951 DI Engine and Compression test (110 psi)

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mkeough11

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OK, I have a 2004 Sportster with the 951 DI engine. With all the reading on here, the biggest thing I get is to always check your compression to get the state of your engine. From what I read, anything under 135 psi, is not good. So out of curiosity I decided to check my compression. I ran the engine on the trailer for 30 seconds, pulled the plugs, grounded them & went to WOT. I get 110 psi on both cylinders . This should mean a failing motor. But my boat runs really good. Starts right up, idles great, will easily spin up to 7000 rpm, do 60 mph with 3 on board and pull a tube with 2 kids on it with no problems. I usually cruise around 5500 and 35-37 mph. So what gives? Why does my boat run so good with such low compression? Can the computer compensate that much for that low of compression? I did 2 readings to make sure of the compression. Would appreciate any comments or thoughts.
 
Don't lose any sleep over it, your tester most likely just reads low. I have a couple old ones that show 20-30 psi less than actual pressure. The fact you show nearly identical psi on both cylinders is always a good sign.

Maybe borrow a loaner tester from an automotive store and compare findings? Your boat runs way better than 110 psi will allow for.
 
Should a compression check be done on a warm or cold engine, or does it nake any difference at all?
 
I don't think that matters, just that it is run for a few seconds first to get oil on the cylinders to get a better seal.
 
Cold engine, plugs out and grounded, throttle floored as that is built into the system to prevent the engine from starting.


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Interesting. My 2001 sportster is measuring 110/118PSI too. checked with two different meters.
Just verified last night when I saw this thread.

The boat is running OK. plane at 5000~5500RPM. cruising around at 6000~6500RPM no problem. speed is around 30MPH.
Bought the boat last fall. water tested. didn't do compression check. I didn't do a proper winterization, only added anti freeze, didn't fog the engine.
At the beginning of the season, the compression was 90/60PSI. With oil added into the cylinder, the compression stays at 110/120PSI now.
Switched to XPS II oil a few weeks ago from some unknown blue oil left from PO.
Have been out for many times this summer and so far burned up about 1 and half tank of gas.

But hopefully I will do an inspection through the RAVEs soon to decide what should I do after the season for the engine.
Crossing my figures for every trip. Also add 10mil oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes after every trip.
 
Interesting. My 2001 sportster is measuring 110/118PSI too. checked with two different meters.
Just verified last night when I saw this thread.

The boat is running OK. plane at 5000~5500RPM. cruising around at 6000~6500RPM no problem. speed is around 30MPH.
Bought the boat last fall. water tested. didn't do compression check. I didn't do a proper winterization, only added anti freeze, didn't fog the engine.
At the beginning of the season, the compression was 90/60PSI. With oil added into the cylinder, the compression stays at 110/120PSI now.
Switched to XPS II oil a few weeks ago from some unknown blue oil left from PO.
Have been out for many times this summer and so far burned up about 1 and half tank of gas.

But hopefully I will do an inspection through the RAVEs soon to decide what should I do after the season for the engine.
Crossing my figures for every trip. Also add 10mil oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes after every trip.

I'd say both your testers are off, while you might make rpm's on a flusher hose out of the water there's no way you'd get a full load on the crankshaft and get on plane and stay there with a cylinder blowing 110 psi. there will simply be to much of the fuel/oil mix making it's way past the rings and not making horsepower at the crankshaft.
 
The only thing that concerns me here, is that at 6000-6500 rpm you say you are only going 30mph. I am doing between 50-60 at that same rpm. At 30 mph I am only doing lest than 5000 rpm. What is the condition of your wear ring? Mine is new. Replaced 2 months ago.
 
110psi on a 951 is not terrible, it's at the lower end but acceptable. On a DI there's a little different procedure for taking a compression reading, not sure what it is but I'm pretty sure you don't open the throttle full. Take a look in the service manual.

Lou
 
The only thing that concerns me here, is that at 6000-6500 rpm you say you are only going 30mph. I am doing between 50-60 at that same rpm. At 30 mph I am only doing lest than 5000 rpm. What is the condition of your wear ring? Mine is new. Replaced 2 months ago.

My wear ring is new for the season too. I always have 2 adults and 2 kids on board.
 
OK, I have a 2004 Sportster with the 951 DI engine. With all the reading on here, the biggest thing I get is to always check your compression to get the state of your engine. From what I read, anything under 135 psi, is not good. So out of curiosity I decided to check my compression. I ran the engine on the trailer for 30 seconds, pulled the plugs, grounded them & went to WOT. I get 110 psi on both cylinders . This should mean a failing motor. But my boat runs really good. Starts right up, idles great, will easily spin up to 7000 rpm, do 60 mph with 3 on board and pull a tube with 2 kids on it with no problems. I usually cruise around 5500 and 35-37 mph. So what gives? Why does my boat run so good with such low compression? Can the computer compensate that much for that low of compression? I did 2 readings to make sure of the compression. Would appreciate any comments or thoughts.

You need to hold the throttle in WOT position when measuring compression.

Last Fall before winterizing my 951 carb motor blew 120psi both cylinders after sitting stone cold for more than a week, I figure a good bit of the oil ran down into the crankcase.

So you might be blowing a bit more than 110psi and your gauge may be miscalibrated or incorrectly configured, some of the Harbor Freight gauge hoses were assembled incorrectly and yield a lower number. I'd question the gauge first, but still 110psi may not be too bad depending on the conditions involved, especially if the boat has been out of service there would most likely be some corrosion on the iron cylinder walls hindering ring seal. This is why it's so important to fog your engine after using the boat if it's going to be sitting for more than a few days, to avoid cylinder wall corrosion and loss of compression due to micro-pitting.

If you have some light cylinder wall corrosion the compression may return to 120psi+ after you've run the motor a bit, so go easy on it for the time being. FYI, excessive clearance causes piston temps to increase and eventually heat transfer out of the piston is disrupted, the piston then overheats and melts and leaving puddles of aluminum smeared on the cylinder walls then you can imagine what happens from there....

The earlier 951 motors were known to blow 150psi and later years that changed to about 130 or so, many of the later models blow 120 stone cold and are still running fine.

If you are able to confirm 110psi absolutely, then it's a bit low and you may be approaching the point of rebuild, I would pay close attention and avoid running it hard and stop running it if it does seize b/c when the 951 seizes it's known to throw rods and destroy the cases, which of course costs more than if your tore it down for rebuild in the first place. All 2-stroke motors will eventually wear out and seize, rebuilding them sometime after a couple hundred hours is normal expected maintenance.

Measure twice and cut once!

Check compression early and often on this motor, especially when you detect a drop. I hope to recheck my compression again soon too, trying to keep an eye on it.
 
The only thing that concerns me here, is that at 6000-6500 rpm you say you are only going 30mph. I am doing between 50-60 at that same rpm. At 30 mph I am only doing lest than 5000 rpm. What is the condition of your wear ring? Mine is new. Replaced 2 months ago.

Top speed on the 2001 ish sportsters dream-o-meter running the 951 is about 50 MPH on a good calm day with fairly smooth water best I've been able to tell, I've never seen more than 50MPH with mine.

RPM vs actual speed is dependent on many factors, such as wind direction, amount of weight in the boat and water surface conditions.
 
Should a compression check be done on a warm or cold engine, or does it nake any difference at all?

Generally the numbers you see posted here are stone cold after sitting for probably at least overnight, which really is kinda silly but it does make a difference and I think the reality is the engine should be run first.

So the numbers you see here should be worst case with a cold motor that's not loaded up with oil, a cold motor that's "dry" will have more cylinder wall clearance than one that's at normal operating temp. and one that's full of oil will give much higher numbers, so pour some oil in if you wanna see higher numbers, I guess, not because that will compensate for a worn out engine or keep one from seizing.
 
You know what is funny? What you said about the Harbour Freight gauge. Guess what gauge I am using. Yes, one I purchased from Harbour Freight for about 20.00.
 
You know what is funny? What you said about the Harbour Freight gauge. Guess what gauge I am using. Yes, one I purchased from Harbour Freight for about 20.00.

Well in that case take a look at the ends of the connection hose and see if there's a check valve at one end, the check valve should be in the end that attaches to the cylinder head, not the end that attaches to the gauge head. If it's incorrectly configured this way (I hear there was a batch this way) that would definitely cause a lower than normal reading.
 
Check valve is configured right. You can only blow thru it one way. (the threaded in).

The next step is to compare the calibration with another gauge. I usually compare mine with our shop compressor gauge, the gauge head quick connect fitting is the same as most air compressor hoses but female instead so you'll need a gender changer.
 
You can only blow thru it one way. (the threaded in).

You just clarified the directional orientation, that's unrelated to the problem I'm describing. It's imperative the check valve is located in the threaded fitting at the cylinder as close to the piston as possible, if the directional orientation is incorrect then you'd simply get no reading at all.
 
Top speed on the 2001 ish sportsters dream-o-meter running the 951 is about 50 MPH on a good calm day with fairly smooth water best I've been able to tell, I've never seen more than 50MPH with mine.

RPM vs actual speed is dependent on many factors, such as wind direction, amount of weight in the boat and water surface conditions.

I am not sure how accurate my speed-o-meter is (will take a gps with me next time out), but the other night we were coming in off the lake, had been out cruising for about a hour and for about 1 minute I went to WOT and it went to 6700 rpm and over 55 with 3 people (525 lbs.) and the Bimini top up but closed. (See avatar). I am pretty sure it would have gone faster and a higher RPM if left WOT longer. But I don't push it real hard. But it sure does have a sweet spot when it gets over 5700 rpm. I guess the raves are opening and it sounds so good and smooth at the higher rpm. It actually sounds better over 5700 rpm than it does between 4000 and 5000. It really smooth's out and sings.
 
You just clarified the directional orientation, that's unrelated to the problem I'm describing. It's imperative the check valve is located in the threaded fitting at the cylinder as close to the piston as possible, if the directional orientation is incorrect then you'd simply get no reading at all.

That's where its at, in the threaded part. The other in is a quick couple for the gauge.
 
Yeah, I haven't GPS'd mine either but I figure this boat can't possibly be as fast as the XP ski running the 951, some reported they could reach 67MPH

Interesting. I haven't gps'd my boat either. "Onto the plane" is the only thing I am looking for and good enough for me :-)



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Maybe the DI's are a little faster than the carbed motors, but 6700 RPM is right there were mine is, I 've seen ~6850 or so on the tach, hard to get a real good reading but that's what I see.
 
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