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Seadoo RX 2000 Millennium Edition 951 DI or Non-DI - how do I tell?

RXP-RMM

Premium Member
Premium Member
I am looking at 2 RX millennium edition seadoos with a trailer for $1,800. One runs great just needs a battery and the other states probably a rebuild. Two questions.

1. Is this a good deal?
2. Also I see they made a basic 951 no DI engine and a 951-DI that year. How do I tell if it is the DI one?
 
Have you rode the one that only needs a battery? If not do so. Make sure it runs well and check its compression.. A rebuild will cost you around $800 to $2000 based on if you do it or someone else does it and your area. That doesn't include carb/Di maintenance. DIs cost more to maintain in general. They are better on gas too. If this is your first ski and you are doing the work yourself, I would lean toward a carb model, much easier to fix. If you aren't doing the maintenance yourself and can find someone to do it.....anything goes. Be warned ,it is hard to find someone to work on them in most places.

As far as the price. What year are they, how many hrs on the running one and how is overall condition, do they look well maintained? Or were they left in the back of the yard and forgot about?
 
He said it just needs a battery...
ray-liotta-laughing.gif

They never just need a battery.
Think of it this way, why would you take $1,800 for two skis when you could run down to Autozone, spend $75 and sell one running ski for $2000?
You wouldn't.

No, not a good deal. A non running Seadoo in mint condition isn't worth more than $500.

All DI skis will day "Direct Fuel Injection" on the outer sticker below the seat that says "GTX".
 
I am looking at 2 RX millennium edition seadoos with a trailer for $1,800. One runs great just needs a battery and the other states probably a rebuild. Two questions.

1. Is this a good deal?
2. Also I see they made a basic 951 no DI engine and a 951-DI that year. How do I tell if it is the DI one?
I have heard the di have a lot of problems and certain parts are no longer available for them and very expensive.
 
Ahh...come on POPPS...where's your sense of adventure? ;) DIs are harder to work on but if you have some mechanical talent and aren't afraid of a little ..ok maybe a lot of challenges...then all will be fine. If you are a newbie stick to carbs though!

I say this only because I am working myself up to getting a RFI or Di as my next project.
 
Ahh...come on POPPS...where's your sense of adventure? ;) DIs are harder to work on but if you have some mechanical talent and aren't afraid of a little ..ok maybe a lot of challenges...then all will be fine. If you are a newbie stick to carbs though!

I say this only because I am working myself up to getting a RFI or Di as my next project.
Don't forget lots of money to throw at them, and frustration.
 
Ahh...come on POPPS...where's your sense of adventure? ;) DIs are harder to work on but if you have some mechanical talent and aren't afraid of a little ..ok maybe a lot of challenges...then all will be fine. If you are a newbie stick to carbs though!

I say this only because I am working myself up to getting a RFI or Di as my next project.
The RFI isn’t bad. As far as FI systems go they’re pretty simple. For the most part. That said I do have a miss between 4 and 4,500 rpm that I can’t seem to get rid of for anything.
 
Ahh...come on POPPS...where's your sense of adventure? ;) DIs are harder to work on but if you have some mechanical talent and aren't afraid of a little ..ok maybe a lot of challenges...then all will be fine. If you are a newbie stick to carbs though!

I say this only because I am working myself up to getting a RFI or Di as my next project.
Just say I’ve Owed a rfi would not recommend there is always something going wrong it makes you scared to ride it because every time you ride and it runs good you don’t want to touch it and brake it because for once it runs good. 🤣but it up to you they are not my cup of tea
 
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