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95 XP issues after rebuiilt 717 carb screw adjustments

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DrMarc

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Hi Everyone, Thanks for looking
This 95 XP was just rebuilt by the previous owner, who wasn't the greatest mechanic, but hey, hindsight is 20/20. Anyhow, It seemed to run pretty good, but while out for a day of riding at the beginning of this season, my buddy flipped it, and swapped it a little, and then when trying to restart (which it never liked to do after flipping it) the starter became weaker and weaker and then quit, as if the battery were dead. It was also having electrical issues at the time, so the battery dying didn't make me think twice it may have been water ingestion. So, we towed it back with the other machine and it was a sunday afternoon so we took the battery out put it on the trickle charger and went home. Came back the next weekend and put the fully charged battery in and it still wouldn't turn over.

So I took the plugs out, cranked it and then it rained down rusty water all around me. So I dragged the machine machine back to the boat launch and brought it back to the garage and began inspecting. And quickly find that the 3 bolts that hold the tuned pipe to the manifold are sitting in the bottom of bilge. I guess a little loctite was too expensive for someone, and it ended up costing me a whole new crankshaft and top end (stock size new brp cylinders and wsm pistons).

But now after finally getting it back together. rebuilding carbs, replacing the fuel system, I could tell immediately it was running lean, i finally had to set the h.s screw nearly a full turn out on both carbs before it was running properly. All the mating surfaces were thoroughly cleaned and new gaskets installed, leak tested with the quickstart method.

I noted the original high and low speed screw settings when i cleaned and rebuilt the carbs but that was back in july and have long since thrown out the scrap i scribbled it on, but if my memory serves me correctly it was l.s 1 1/2 and h.s 1/4

So I guess my question is why would i need to deviate soo far from the stock settings?
 
Why do you think your machines running lean? Are you doing plug chops?

Sorry to hear about all the engine failure. Did you oversize the pistons ?
 
Why do you think your machines running lean? Are you doing plug chops?

Sporry to hear about all the engine failure. Did you oversize the pistons ?

pistons and cylinders are stock size... When i first launched it after rebuild i could tell it was running lean cuz it had serious hesitation and when i pulled the choke half way it would run fine but as soon as it was released it would go back to hesitating. i finally found a sweet spot on h.s screw that eliminated the hesitation and did a couple of plug chop runs and were coming out perfectly brown
 
First ... thread locker on the exhaust bolts doesn't normally hold because of the heat. They just need to be properly torqued.

Second... I wouldn't blame the rusted crank on the bolts. I would blame you for leaving it parked for a week full of water from the flip-over.

As you said... hind sight is 20/20.


OK... a '95 xp, should be at:

High 0
low 1-3/4
main 135
Pilot 67.5
N/S 1.2
pop-off 40-56 psi


If you need to open the high needle more than a 1/4 turn, something is wrong with the carbs. Since you know the last guy worked on it... and you don't trust his work, I would take the carbs off, and make sure they have the proper jets inside, and that the pop-off is correct.


Just a question... do you have the stock air box on it still?
 
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First ... thread locker on the exhaust bolts doesn't normally hold because of the heat. They just need to be properly torqued.


I've always wondered about that but I looked up the spec sheet for 242 at work one day and it says that it remains at 100% strength for the first 500 hours of exposure to 150 Celsius... Its gonna be nice this weekend so after a long ride on my 96 xp i'm gonna take my laser thermometer to it and report back..

But I'm more than with ya on the proper torquing!



OK... a '95 xp, should be at:

High 0
low 1-3/4
main 135
Pilot 67.5
N/S 1.2
pop-off 40-56 psi

How do I verify the size of the jets once i have it all apart again?

And the pop off was at 44 after rebuilding the carbs. Besides if the carbs worked fine on the engine before the new crank, why shouldn't they work fine after... I'm begining to think this may be a timing issue, tho i put 2 marks on the timing plate and they lined up at reinstall. I don't own a timing gun however, in my industry we're still using magnetos with breaker points for ignition timing. Ancient, I know.. But I can re-time two of them to an engine 2 minutes.

Could the rotary valve being off a few degrees cause this? I'm just trying to think if this could be another issue.

Thanks!
 
Just an FYI... the torque on the exhaust bolts is not very high. Most people over torque them, and after a few heat cycles, they will stretch the bolts, and then they loosen them selves. If they are torqued right... they get tighter as the engine gets hot, but they don't stretch.


The ignition timing is probably right. so, I wouldn't worry about that.

But, yes... if the rotary valve is out of time... it will cause all kinds of problems. I would probably double check it if I was you.


As far as the jets... once you remove them, you will see a little number stamped in to it. But, if it was running OK, before the crank... I would be more inclined to think you have the rotary valve set wrong.
 
So I pulled the carbs and rotary valve, rechecked the positioning and found that if i flipped it i could get a little close, and now it seems to run like a champ with the screws closed, didn't have a chance to drop it in the lake tho, too busy closing everything up for the year. But at least one less thing to think about all winter.
 
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