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95 Sportster 2 Stroke Bombadier Start issue

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Automatic

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hello,

I have a 1995 Sportster 2 stroke Bombardier, it ran fine all last summer, I read some of the post's already and have tried troubleshooting the techniques that others have had similar issues but with no luck.

I have a fully charged battery, new spark plugs just placed in a few days ago.

The problem is it wont start, It turns about three cranks and then just stops,
I checked the carbs and noticed allot of mixture in the carbs, (gas/oil = mixture) I notice when I let it sit for a day and try to start it, it will crank but then stops immediately, Ive been told its not getting no spark, and me not being a mechanic I have no clue where to start, I don't have a hitch to take it over to the dealer, so I'm kind of stuck.

Any help on where to start would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Automatic
 
You need to start with basics...what did you do to winterize it last season? Is the gas now fresh, Are you useing the correct sparkplugs? Did you check for spark? Is the lanyard cap on correctly? Is the engine getting fuel, are the plugs wet? Give us some input and we'll give you some helpful tips.

Karl
 
I did not ad the stabilizer to the gas, something I overlooked, battery is fully charged, old spark plugs where dirty real bad and had oil on them, replaced with new spark plugs, but I didn't check the gap, nor do I know how to check for spark, they were picked up from the dealer so I know I got the correct spark plugs because I watched him use his pdf to locate the correct type.

I don't know where the lanyard to the cap is, sorry I'm very new to pwc's completely, I did pick up the shop manual, so I will check that now, don't know how to check for gas coming out of the lines?

Thanks KustomKarl :)

Automatic
 
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Current gap from Dealer shelf is .030 is that correct? Also both plugs had oil where one was touching from prong to head (that make sense?)
I held the laynard button and tried to fire it but no luck it cranked and stopped only one time.

Automatic
 
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Put the lanyard cap on it to make contact. Have the plugs dangle on the cylinder and turn it over, it should spark. Check the fuel seperiator to see if it has gunk in the gas. Dump it out and see if when it turns over it fills back up. Use the choke to start it with the spark plugs back in.I would spray a little wd-40 in the cylinders to see if it will fire up. DON'T use starting fluid. It has no lubrication value. It should fire up. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
Put the lanyard cap on it to make contact. Have the plugs dangle on the cylinder and turn it over, it should spark.
Karl

So with the spark plugs in the spark plugs wires, just sitting ontop of the cylinder head?

Sorry I am so technical, I am just no mechanic, but am and willing to learn!

Automatic
 
Okay she turned over much better and shot all the oil and gas out! :hurray:

However I have a serious mess to clean up now, because I didnt cover the heads from the excess spray! :ack:

But heres some pictures!

After your post Kustom, I read the manual and it has prongs the spark plugs mount to, so She has spark as you can see in the photos!

But KustomKarl,
thank you from deep down in my heart, I can take her for a spin now, well after I clean up the boat and the ceiling hehehe!

Hoorah Seadoo Season is here!!!!

Automatic
 

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Okay she cranks over much better now, but something is still up,
it seems like to much oil is getting to the engine or head, when I clear out
the excess oil then putt the plug wires to the ground it cranks fine,
but when I dry off the spark plugs and reinstall them its turns over two or three times but doesnt start, and then stops, like to much oil is flowing in or something.

Should I put a little more WD40 and repeat the process???

I just re-evaluated the gas situation, it looks as if the resevoir only has about a quarter in where the filter is, should it fill up fast slow?
I only pumped the choke a little or twice when trying to start it.
 
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It sounds like your engine is hydro locking. It is probly caused by your rotory valve gear seals. your engine is probly full of 2 cycle oil. this problem normaly shows up when boat has been stored for months and oil slowly fills crank case. I have heard of a nother problem that may cause this but I am not sure if it is correct. do you pre mix or do you still use your oil enjection? :cheers:
 
It sounds like your engine is hydro locking. It is probly caused by your rotory valve gear seals. your engine is probly full of 2 cycle oil. this problem normaly shows up when boat has been stored for months and oil slowly fills crank case. I have heard of a nother problem that may cause this but I am not sure if it is correct. do you pre mix or do you still use your oil enjection? :cheers:


Hi Robin Savell lloyd,

Yes it is mixed in two chambers combined into one, now thats only theory on my part because one chamber has oil, and the other is for gas.

TY for your response.
 
This may not be a good idea but it is probly what I would do to get a little more life out of engine. remove intake manifold and suck up oil with towl or rag. turn engine over by hand and remove this oil out of each rotory port. this is oil and not gas right? :cheers:
 
This may not be a good idea but it is probly what I would do to get a little more life out of engine. remove intake manifold and suck up oil with towl or rag. turn engine over by hand and remove this oil out of each rotory port. this is oil and not gas right? :cheers:

That is correct, earlier when I put wd40 she turned over and shot out all of the oil so I thought, I laid off, because then it went back to no crank, tried again and couple turns then nothing, then (post 8) I removed spark plugs, oil on them ,cleaned off, placed cardboard in angle over cylinder head and fired her up, much darker green oil came out but turning over rapidly, now the only thing is the filter gas reservoir only had a quarter gas in it, so I did notice these are fuel injected.
 
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removeing oil from the crank case may only allow you to ride untill the next time it is stored. then it will probly fill back up with oil. now you could do something dumb like I might try and put two ball valves on each of the 2 big oil lines and turn off when not in use and do not forget to turn back on when in use. like I have said this is a dumb idea not a good fix but some times i like to experiment. :rofl: ps. if oil leak is to bad this may not work.
 
Well guys the Rotary Gear shaft chamber seals are shot.You have to pull the engine and replace the seals or it will just keep filling up with oil and do the same thing again. If yo mechanically inclined it shouldn't be a problem. If your not sure what a metric wrench is then you could be in trouble. This job does requires mechanical skills and some basic tools to perform the task at hand. If you want to tackle it I suggest you become a "premium member" and download a seadoo repair manual that will guide you through the repair process. We will be here for when you get in a jam. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" at the top of the page for details. Otherwise call a seadoo repair shop.

Karl
 
Well guys the Rotary Gear shaft chamber seals are shot.You have to pull the engine and replace the seals or it will just keep filling up with oil and do the same thing again. If yo mechanically inclined it shouldn't be a problem. If your not sure what a metric wrench is then you could be in trouble. This job does requires mechanical skills and some basic tools to perform the task at hand. If you want to tackle it I suggest you become a "premium member" and download a seadoo repair manual that will guide you through the repair process. We will be here for when you get in a jam. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" at the top of the page for details. Otherwise call a seadoo repair shop.

Karl

Well im on vacation at the moment and I am a little mechanically inclined, I do know what the metric system is, so can you be a little more specific about what seals I need to replace and just a little more of what it is I have to do.

Thanks.
Automatic
 
Oh the Rotary Valve chamber seals are bad. They keep the 2 stroke oil on the shaft for lubrication. What is happening is that the seals are leaking Oil into the combustion chamber. and the engine is getting like 500% too much oil. It is getting oil mixed with the gas as it is, plus the same oil is used to lube the gear shaft. It will eventually keep the engine from running as it has already. To solve the problem you have to remove the engine from the boat.
Next you have to flip it over and split the cases and replace the seals. The job i believe is a good days work, if you know what your doing and have done it before. Tools you will need; metric wrenches, sockets, and allen wrenches,screwdriver and a rubber mallet. The manual will go into detail and the correct proceedure to remove and replace the seals. I would read it through it a couple times if It was me, and it was my first time to do such a repair. Skill level out of 10...6.

Karl
 
You need to buy a rebuilt crank shaft. :cheers: ps. the manual states that you should not rebuild it your self
 
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If I had this problem before I would atempt to fix it correctly I would buy a sbt engine. as engine has age on it and it is alot of work and $$$$. :cheers:
 
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The crank will have to be split and new seals installed in the crankshaft assy. It might be cheaper to send for a new replacement engine and send the old one in as a core. Than all you have to do is pull you old parts off like carbs and intake and exhaust,stator assy and misc covers and install them on the new engine. Check this company out on the internet for details. www.sbtontheweb.com

Karl
 
Hi Kustom,

yeah I think I can pull out the engine no problem, but I think replacing that seal I will pass on.

Automatic
 
Oh the Rotary Valve chamber seals are bad. They keep the 2 stroke oil on the shaft for lubrication. What is happening is that the seals are leaking Oil into the combustion chamber. and the engine is getting like 500% too much oil. It is getting oil mixed with the gas as it is, plus the same oil is used to lube the gear shaft. It will eventually keep the engine from running as it has already. To solve the problem you have to remove the engine from the boat.
Next you have to flip it over and split the cases and replace the seals. The job i believe is a good days work, if you know what your doing and have done it before. Tools you will need; metric wrenches, sockets, and allen wrenches,screwdriver and a rubber mallet. The manual will go into detail and the correct proceedure to remove and replace the seals. I would read it through it a couple times if It was me, and it was my first time to do such a repair. Skill level out of 10...6.

Karl
500% to much oil?? It may be one drop per minute but that adds up in 6 months time. :)
 
I was trying to let you know that there are other alternatives than just spending money. Some people will attempt to repair themselves, or have friends that are mechanics. I would probably do the exchange as I think it is less than $900.00 ( if memory serves me right)when you all done and in the water. It will save you lots of aggravation and time also. You send for the new engine and take off all the parts you need and send them back the core. This way you don't forget something and you have the old engine till your done....then you get refund for the old engine.

Karl
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate both your knowledge.

I pulled that baby out last night, I figured im on vacation and doing nothing,
so I got to work, Im headed to drop here off now, how much you think they will charge me to replace the seals?

Thanks

Automatic
 
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