95 speedster no spark on port

[hotrodssnova]

On my boat, I took the pump, and driveshaft off first, then the exhaust out from the big clamp in the middle. Plus the two bolts on the ex mani. Then you can take the carbs off by the 4 Allen bolts, lay them to the side for now. Now you can pull the wires and hoses. Motor mount bolts, and pull it out by hand. It's not that heavy.

 

[onefast66nova]

My carbs are out of the boat cause I was gonna go through them as the boat sat for 8 years but I opened them up and they look brand new. The po had ran staibil in fuel every fall and it shows. He also deleted the oil injection and made the boat premix which I am in the process of getting all the parts to add the injection back on. I will pull the pump next good day and exhaust and should not take much to remove. Hope I open the mag cover up and find the problem.

 

[onefast66nova]

Good thing I pulled this pump off to pull engine would have overheated real fast with water inlets clogged with silicone!

 

[hotrodssnova]

I'm pretty sure that the 2 you are looking at aren't used in the boat. The big, 3/8 is used for the cooling system. One of the smaller ones are used for bailer's on a ski. That's a lot of goop on there. No reason for that much. They must have charged by the tube.

 

[hotrodssnova]

You will need some new boots for the impellers. Also spend the cash for the driveshaft buttons if they aren't there.
The boot should keep the water out of the splined area of the impeller. Used grease when you put it back together

 

[onefast66nova]

What boots are you talking about? Also do they sell them as a kit. The drive shaft came out of the right side stuck in the impeller. The left side is stuck in the boat. I'm trying to save as much money as I can but want it reliable. Kinda of an oxymoron I know lol.

 

[onefast66nova]

Also I would like to take apart the buckets and reverse gates and bead blast them then paint them. I'm kinda ocd bout stuff like that stuff. Any tips or tricks. This post is kinda turning into a build thread I'm sry. Lol

 

[hotrodssnova]

There's rubber boot, or grommet, that goes into the opening of the impeller. The little recess in the opening of the impeller takes, and locates the boot. The driveshaft slides through it. It seals the splines from the water.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Some boats did have venturi bailers, mine has them and they work great.

Many people agree silicone (whale snot) doesn't belong on a boat. I know I hate seeing or using it but in some cases it's a requirement. At least you can still take the parts off, unlike some other tenacious marine sealers that require dynamite.

 

[onefast66nova]

Went back out and looked and the cone was stuck to the drive shaft. Also the bumper is there all just needs cleaned real good and some lube. I will be tearing down pumps to check bearings and repaint housings.

 

[onefast66nova]

Ok pulled motor and I pulled mag cover and it smelled like burnt electrical. Not sure if po pinned the 4 pin stator wrong or what. It is a used stator as there is yellow marker on back of it like from a scrap yard or eBay seller. It does not test good but will retest when I have my good meter. Anyone have a pic of how I am supposed to pin the 4 pin harness when I install my new to me stator. If you zoom in on pic you can see how it was wired before.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I think maybe you're a little too young to take this task on by yourself, isn't your dad available to help with some of the heavy stuff? (joke!)

If the stator is roasted they most likely used too large of fuse and it's likely the diode bridge rectifier is suspect also. On the bright side, bridge rectifiers this size can be had for just about $3 in aftermarket.

Okay this is going back in time and so I must stop and say, what a nice time capsule! (and great (fun) ski).

I'm pretty sure this is a single phase stator (2 yellow wires), correct? If yes, the two yellow wires are for the AC input coming from stator to the full wave bridge rectifier then make sure the + output of the bridge rectifier has a reasonable size fuse maybe 10A maximum but more likely 5~7A is all that circuit can produce to charge the battery. the - terminal of the rectifier goes to ground.

The other two wires (of the four) would be for the ignition trigger, polarity might be important thus the wires should be color coded, aren't they?

At least that's the way I expect it's wired.

 

[hotrodssnova]

The wires should be straight forward. Yellow to yellow, black to black, and so on.

 

[onefast66nova]

Lmao that is classic. That is my little helper. Every time she sees the boat she gets excited and yells boat! She will be 2 at the end of next month. The wires are a little different than the boat colors but they should be close. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[hotrodssnova]

The wires should be the same colors. It plugs into the e box.

 

[onefast66nova]

Ya I looked before it got dark out and they are close in the boat. I think they have an extra stripe on them

 

[hotrodssnova]

Oh yeah, probably green. Totally forgot. That designation for starboard side if I'm not mistaken. That's what it shows on my wiring diagram. But it's for a 94. Should be the same though. Only real difference is my setup uses a 5 wire stator and you're a 4 wire.

 

[wfo speedracer]

Ok where do I start here, first off you are confusing tests for 787's and 951 with tests for 587-657-717's, the 587-717 setup is AC just like your lawnmower if it spins it sparks.

Second the ports plugged up on your jet pump are not water inlets they are used for a siphon bilge system on the Seadoo skis, the boats do not have siphon bilges so the ports are sealed off with silicone.

 

[onefast66nova]

Well got the stator in yesterday at the firehouse and this morning I reinstalled engine back in boat. Wired plug up for stator and reinstalled the coils and wires for both engines. The carbs and oil pump mount plates are still off and have not had time to install them. Hooked battery up and hooked spark tester up and no luck. I moved tester to known running engine and no spark on that one either. So I pulled the plugs out of non running engine and dumped some premix in holes. Put plugs back in and hit start button and it came alive for bout 2 seconds. Problem solved! Thanks for all the help.

I was also looking to change out all the fuel line due to mine being hard but didn't realize that I need A1 marine line. So that is gonna have to wait. Got all exhaust and water lines done on one motor so far and the carbs mounted and oil cable on and adjusted. Now to install and adjust throttle cable then install other oil pump carbs and the rest. Now to put some time into cleaning it up and getting title swapped so I can get registration and numbers on boat.

 

[hotrodssnova]

That marine stuff is coast guard inspection stuff. I ran all automotive fuel line in mine. Lots of folks do.

 

[onefast66nova]

Bout how much line it take you? Looks to have a lot in there. And is it all 1/4 or any bigger like some skis?

 

[hotrodssnova]

Honestly, I don't have a clue. Ask Dr honda, or Lou doo. It's quite a bit. Heck, skies take about 25'.

 

[onefast66nova]

Ok so I started messing with the fuel lines tonight. It is all original marine stuff. It is totally clean however it is all turned pretty hard. Should I swap it out to automotive or leave it alone. Only thing I'm worried about is it sucking air around fittings from those factory clamps and hard hose.

 

[onefast66nova]

Should the stock lines be super hard compared tithe automotive 1/4" stuff?

 

[hotrodssnova]

They aren't grey are they. It's not high pressure fuel line, mine are soft, but they have been replaced.