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95 seadoo xp problems

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Rollerdoo

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I'm new to the forum and would just like to say it is great to find a site like this where people are willing to share knowledge and help each other. I have already found alot of usefull info here.I just recently purchased a pair of 95 seadoo xp 720s. I will list everything that i have done to them and then referring to them as mine and hers and list the issues I'm having.

List of repairs I've made to both
Replaced all grey tempo fuel line
Cleaned fuel selector switch
Cleaned and rebuilt carbs needles and all
Pulled flushed and cleaned fuel tank and oil resevor
Replaced oil lines on pump and bleed system
Cleaned fuel water separator
Compression test
Replaced starter and cylinoid (mine only)

Mine
Pop off pressure is at 40 psi both carbs. Low speed 1 3/4 out high speed 0. 1.2 needle and seat
First day out ran perfect. The very next day went out and ran well still but at wot it would bog down like it was running out of fuel then surge back up and then bog back down. Not sure where to go from here. Starts up well right off trailer but after you ride and go to restart it starts hard almost like it's flooded.

Hers
Pop off pressure came in at 35 psi both carbs. Low speed 1 3/4 out high speed 0. 1.2 needle and seat
First day out would idle and take a little throttle but wouldn't rev up much at all and not enough power to even come up on plane. Took it home and found it was leaking a little stream of fuel out of the cover on the little fuel filter side of the pto carb. Removed cover and retorqued no more leak. Took out the next day and ran a bit better but still not enough power to come up on plane. If you held wot then let out and hit it again it would rev up for a second then bog right back down. Same effect if you held wot then pulled the choke out and pushed it back in real quick would rev up for a second then bog right back down. On the trailer it revs good but at wot it pops through back through carbs and spark arrestor. I dont necessarily want to call it a back fire cause there isn't flames it seems more like smoke or fuel mist. It blows the spark arrestor right out when it happens if you don't hold it down. I have already tried running it with the red wire on the rectifier unplugged and no change. I really don't think it's rotary valve timing cause I don't think the motors have ever been apart. From what I've read here sounds like you have to remove the cover in order to change the timing. . I tried opening the high speed screws a quarter turn on the trailer and it just seemed to bog at wot.

These are my first pwcs so I'm learning alot by reading older threads here. I have owned and been working on 2 strokes for years aa well as 4 strokes but these have me stumped.I would like to say thank you in advance for any light anyone may be able to shed on this situation.
 
Go back into carbs and re install the factory springs, for the needle assy. Also, run a new line from "res" fitting on tank, straight to carb...keep selector switch on "off" position...
 
Is there a reason for bypassing the fuel selector switch. Also am I supposed to put springs back in both skis or just in one. If only one which one
 
Both, if having issues. Bypassing the selector and inline filter, eliminates any potential introduced unwanted air
 
Yes. The selectors typically can't be cleaned and will leak air as well as the strainer. I always replace both with OEM ones no questions asked.

Also as dieselndoo stated the carb kits come with the wrong replacement springs for Seadoo's for some stupid reason. Also you did use only genuine Mikuni carb kits and needle and seats correct?
 
They were not genuine kits. As I've been reading here though it seems like it's a problem if they aren't so I will probably go ahead and order genuine ones.
 
If the original diaphrams are soft, then reuse them if not, then bend the needle at down past the carb body, just a tad, to keep it from hanging up the needle
 
Typically the aftermarket diaphragms are too stiff and don't work properly and can hold the needle open too flooding the engine.
 
After you get a good fuel supply to the carbs you need 55psi or close in a 95XP. Not sure how you got them to pressure test at all because air would have leaked right out where that fuel leak was. Rectifiers fail(pull red wire test) on 96 787's. Take your pressure tester and test the fuel lines from where they attach to the baffle to where it feeds the carb. The fuel switch will bleed off but should hold 5 psi.
 
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I'm going to try those steps when I get home. I'm not sure how they tested out either Matt with the leak but I was able to get a 35 psi reading four or five times in a row on both. As far as the arm springs go where can I get the set of 4 to have options. Hers already has the original springs in it cause I was only getting 25 psi out of the one's that came from the rebuild kit. Also running the original pivot arms in hers.
 
When you have the correct 1.2 needle and seats the pop off is always up there in range with most springs. Did you get the 1.5's by chance?
 
Well I agree on the OEM kits. I have tons of carb experience and I can never get half of those cheap parts in those cheap kits to act right. They give you a spring or 2 in those kits so it might help get that pop off back into spec.
 
Ok I finally had a chance to work on these skis and get them back in the water. Would like to thank you all for your suggestions and responses. I ended up installing genuine mikuni kits in the carbs on both of them. Got my pop offs right about 55 psi on both sets of carbs. They're now running like new. Definitely acting like a 700 plus cc 2 stroke should. We had the time of our lives today on the old muddy Maumee river. Thanks again for all your help. This is an awesome community of people here.
 
Ok I finally had a chance to work on these skis and get them back in the water. Would like to thank you all for your suggestions and responses. I ended up installing genuine mikuni kits in the carbs on both of them. Got my pop offs right about 55 psi on both sets of carbs. They're now running like new. Definitely acting like a 700 plus cc 2 stroke should. We had the time of our lives today on the old muddy Maumee river. Thanks again for all your help. This is an awesome community of people here.

Where did you get the carb kits from? I need those, fuel lines, oil lines, oil grommets, and then pull everything apart.

BTW i'm also in grand rapids oh just north of the river. So any chance i could get some help lol I know about 2-stroke atv's but pop off pressure is a new one to me.
 
Yes, his kits use OEM Mikuni parts but don't include any of the unnecessary parts in the Mikuni kits.
 
Okay great, just wanted to check that I was buying the right thing the first time.

There is an event on the maumee river next weekend so no time to order twice.
 
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