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94 SPX Loose Motor

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lakngulf

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When the marine shop winterized my SPX last fall they found that the motor connections were all disconnected or broken. Said the shaft was actually only thing keeping the motor in tact. They gave me a "gosh awful" quote just to explore the issue and not sure what it would take to fix it.

I am retired and have some time. I do not have a work shop with block and tackle etc, but I do have tractor with Front End Loader, I have some come alongs, etc.

What exactly would have to be done to fix this problem?
 
Yes. Apparently they are all loose. Guy said he would have to take out the motor just to see what had to be done.
 
Are the mounts loose or is the engine loose on the black mounting pan?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Are the mounts loose or is the engine loose on the black mounting pan?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

My understanding is that the mounts are loose. Guy said something about whether the bolts would be salvageable or not. Maybe my lack of understanding of the problem is a good indication that I should not try to solve it on my on.
 
You should not have to pull the engine. You will have to be able to slightly lift or support it. You can normally shake the engine side to side and tell where the issue(s) are. One thing to note is, the engine isn't just dropped in and bolted up. It needs to be aligned in regards to eh pump and what not. This is important as the impeller will hit the wear ring or worse the housing and do serious damage to the pump and maybe the hull. It can also affect the junction at the rear of the engine causing a flex issue. If things are jus loose and all of the shims are still there, that is a good thing. If mounts are broken or shims have come out, then you need to take your time and do it right the first time.. Can be an expensive mistake not to.
 
Sounds like an issue I just dealt with. I had one motor mount that the rubber part detached from the metal plate. Apparantly these things are glued on somehow. Anyway you can buy new ones if you want but they aren't super cheap and what I did was almost free and much stronger than the original glue.

Theres a cavity in the bottom of the rubber piece. I got a thick washer that fit up in the cavity and welded a nut to it. Place the nut/washer assembly in the bottom of the rubber, place the rubber part back onto the base metal(I added a touch of superglue to keep it in place while mounting), drill out the existing threads, and find a slightly longer than original mounting bolt. Good to go. This repair literally cost me probably less than 1.50....1 washer, nut, and bolt all of which I had laying around. Repair time 5-15 min.
 
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