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94 SeaDoo SPI problems

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justin0829

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Hi all! i am new to this forum and have never posted to a forum before so if i violate a guideline please let me know.

Anyways, so i just got a 1994 SeaDoo SPi from a friend the other day for free. It had been sitting under his deck for a couple years and he never got around to fixing it up after it stopped running in 2014. So i took it home and, after doing some research changed out the grey fuel lines and cleaned out the carb. It has a single mikuni carb and is a 2 stroke 587 engine. I did not rebuild it i just cleaned out the internal filter and sprayed the pump and diaphragms out with carb cleaner. Also i took the jets out and checked them for debris. While spraying with carb cleaner i had the o-rings taken out of course. From there i changed out the nasty grey fuel line that was beginning to decompose. I only had enough hose to change out the intake, return, and crankcase vacuum hose. I did not change out any of the vent lines i only did the main ones that go from the fuel selection valve? (whatever switches from reserve to main). I did not know if any of the other hoses were important to change since i don't know anything about jet skis. Once i got all of this finished i choked it and it fired up immediately.

Took it out to test on the lake and somehow when i was unloading the jet ski the drain plug in the back fell out and the engine bay half flooded with water (almost to top of battery). I got it out of the water as soon as i realized and removed the plugs and turned the engine over to remove all the excess water and then started it up and drove it again. Im not sure if this has anything to do with it or not. After removing the water i took it back out again for a test. The jet ski ran wonderful except it bogged just slightly on acceleration from a stop. It ran great for about 5-7 minutes (i guess?) and then kept trying to stall on me. It would begin to stall and if i just held the throttle wide open it would slowly come back to life and run great. After a minute or so it died completely no matter how much i opened the throttle. It would not fire back up unless i choked the engine and spun it over a few times. It would not crank while choked either. I had to choke it and turn the engine over a few times with the starter. After that if i tried to start it i would have to give it about 1/2 throttle or more and it would slowly come to life and run great for another minute or so. I did this a couple more times and even tried to run it on reserve instead of main in case the fuel selection valve was gummed up. No luck.


Sorry for this being so long and in depth but i thought more information would be better than none. Any help would be very very much appreciated. Thanks!!
 
Ok, welcome first of all you found the best Seadoo site on the interwebs.

You made a very common mistake that bites almost every new owner of these things.

I can't stress this enough that the fuel system has to be working perfectly or as you found out they will not run correctly and you could damage the engine. When you kept running it you were running it lean and not enough fuel and oil. There is a chance your fried the engine so we need to test that before you spend any more time and money.

1. So buy, rent or steel a thread in compression tester.
2. Make sure you have a good charged battery and NO BOOST BOXES!
3. Plug wires grounded on the orange tabs.
4. Keep the spark plug in the hole that you are not testing at the time.
5. Fuel off.
6. Hold the throttle wide open.
7. Crank until the compression tester needle stops climbing.
8. Repeat for the other cylinder.

Perfect compression is 150psi and anything under 120 psi will cause problems.

Report back here with your findings and we will go from there.

Do not ride it again, it will not clear out and fix itself.
 
Thank you for your fast response! I am a college student and will be in school until Friday but i will report back on Friday after doing what you suggested.

Question, since it has two cylinders do i only take out one plug and leave the other plug in while compression testing? It will run with only one plug (it kinda limps and it runs rough but it still runs). Or do i take both plugs out and turn the engine over with the battery?

*edit* also whenever it was running it was smoking pretty good leading me to believe it was rich... Would that not be the case? I pulled the plugs and they were black and wet once i got it out of the water.

Once again thank you so much for your time it means a lot!

Justin
 
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The ski will not be running when doing the test but you want to keep the spark plug in the hole that you are not testing at the time. The plug wires will be grounded on the orange posts on the front cover of the engine.

It does sound like you are rich but lets test the health of this engine before we start chasing our tail on the fuel issue.

I should be online most of Friday and the weekend to give you a hand.
 
Check valves on the fuel system could be not functioning. I would start there if it ran good for a short time
 
You have 2 check valves on the vent lines one allows excess pressure to escape the other allows air to enter the fuel tank as the fuel is consumed.
 
Good ideas 1of500 but lets get the compression before we get into the fuel system since it got harder and harder to start then stopped after continuing to run it lean.
 
Good ideas 1of500 but lets get the compression before we get into the fuel system since it got harder and harder to start then stopped after continuing to run it lean.


okay so i bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb. checked the oil lines and they are still soft. checked compression and both are at 130. cleaned out fuel selector valve and replaced the rectifier and new plugs. IMG_1107.JPGIMG_1109.JPG

took it out on the lake again and same thing happens. runs great for 30 seconds and dies out. tried to run it with the gas cap off(checking for possible tank vent blockage) and with the seat off(exhaust leak). no difference either way. pulled the plugs and they are slightly brown. i have attached pictures. any ideas?
 
Plugs look ok.
Does it run perfectly fine for that 30 seconds?
What color are your fuel lines?

I have had the fuel selectors leak air after cleaning causing your symptoms so I just replace them. Same with the fuel filter.
 
Plugs look ok.
Does it run perfectly fine for that 30 seconds?
What color are your fuel lines?

I have had the fuel selectors leak air after cleaning causing your symptoms so I just replace them. Same with the fuel filter.

yes it runs great for 30 seconds. seems to bog maybe slightly on low-mid rpm but if i give it throttle it'll even out and run great. i can run it full throttle and the engine will "top out" and it'll haul ass and then all of a sudden just die.

something to note... whenever i test it i run in an oval shape. Now that i think about it it seems to die after i pull out of a turn and start going straight again.

also, i attempted to bypass the fuel selector by hooking the fuel intake line straight to the tank and no difference. my fuel lines were just replaced last week and they are black fuel injector hose from autozone. the good stuff lol. the fuel filter is also bypassed and i put an inline filter in instead. i have tried it with no filter as well and no difference....

thank you very much for your help i am glad to know i don't have to sort through this alone!
 
I think you are going to have to pull the tank baffle. It sounds like it is simply running out of fuel. The turning exacerbating the problem leads me to think your baffel might be bad.
 
I think you are going to have to pull the tank baffle. It sounds like it is simply running out of fuel. The turning exacerbating the problem leads me to think your baffel might be bad.

okay great. thank you for your input. do you suggest i order a new baffle? if so, do you have any sites that you would recommend me to buy it from?
 
i just checked online to see how much a baffle was and my wallet got offended. $200 for one of those things... if it is the baffle after all do you think i can just tap a hole in the bottom of the tank and put a spigot on it? kinda similar to atvs/dirt bikes? wouldn't this work because the pump isn't actually in the baffle it's in the carb instead so as long as the spigot stays below fuel level it will still work the same? or am i wrong...
 
No. They don't work that way. Pull yours and check for damage. Also make sure your hoses are on the correct baffle fitting. They are labeled. If you need a new one [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] can hook you up with a guaranteed used one.

Let's make sure yours is bad before you order one.

Some people have had their baffle crack and suck air when the tank is low.
 
okay sounds good. i'm back at college and won't be home until friday so i will post back soon. there's a possibility i may be back in town wednesday briefly and if so i will check on it then.

thanks!
 
okay so sorry about the delay. pulled the baffle out to look at it and didn't see any visible cracks.. is there anything in particular that i should look at? also, a buddy gave me a 96 seadoo gsx that has everything but the engine. comes with mpem, tank, baffle and everything. are these parts interchangeable?
 
Had the same issue with my XP bogging while turning after someone flipped it. My electrical box that had my coil in it was halfway full with water. Drained it out and all was good. This was a 97 XP with the 787 though.
 
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