787 Throttle cable setting or adjustment? I messed up

[sittin sidewayz]

Let me start by saying im border line retarded lol So please explain things thorough

So I took my carbs off my gsx for the first time because it is dying at wot from idle..(screens were clean btw? Only 1 had maybe half gunked up)

While doing so i completely unscrewed both bolts on both throttle cables not knowing I only needed to loosen the inside one.

Im trying to hook the carbs back up. I hooked the throttle cables back up. Is there supposed to be a certain spot to adjust it?

It looks like 1 carb is opening more than the other just a little and 1 carb doesnt look like its closing all the way.. Is that normal?

 

[drewski]

No. Download the repair manual or search in the forum for card sync. Its all explained in detail how to do it.

 

[sittin sidewayz]

what question is your no answering? I asked a few questions

 

[racerxxx]

Yes, one carb has the idle stop screw--the MAG carb that one will be open more without the link bar hooked up. But once the link bar is hooked up you need to "sync" the carbs by the procedure in the manual. For future reference just remove the 2 screws that hold the bracket to the carb and then take the cable off the carb without touching the barrel adjuster, this will keep your idle close to where it was. On the oil pump cable I just loosen the inside nut and thread it all the way off and then slide it thru the split in the bracket. This way when you put it back on you should be damn close to where it was before sine the outside nut will act like a stop gauge. You still need to check the oil pump alignment AFTER you put the carbs on and get the idle set properly.

 

[sittin sidewayz]

Yes, one carb has the idle stop screw--the MAG carb that one will be open more without the link bar hooked up. But once the link bar is hooked up you need to "sync" the carbs by the procedure in the manual. For future reference just remove the 2 screws that hold the bracket to the carb and then take the cable off the carb without touching the barrel adjuster, this will keep your idle close to where it was. On the oil pump cable I just loosen the inside nut and thread it all the way off and then slide it thru the split in the bracket. This way when you put it back on you should be damn close to where it was before sine the outside nut will act like a stop gauge. You still need to check the oil pump alignment AFTER you put the carbs on and get the idle set properly.

Ok so i got the carbs hooked up. (before i read this)
It runs and revs strong but idles at about 2000 rpms.
Wheres the oil pump and oil pump cable
Also when I took the carbs out I lift them connected as a pair...I never removed the link bar.
im on the verge of taking it into a mechanic

 

[sittin sidewayz]

I want to get on the lake today. Please help me through this

 

[sittin sidewayz]

Also how do I know when it is aligned??
Is there a line or dot or something?

I want to thank you racerxxx. Your helping me get through the threshold of newbness. I really appreciate all your help

 

[soccerdad]

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...usting-oil-pump&highlight=oil+pump+adjustment Make sure you are close with the oil pump setting, then adjust the idle. Once you get the idle set correctly, using the idle stop screw, you then look through the carbs with a flashlight and mirror to set the other carb so the butterfly are both open the same amount. You do this by adjusting the link between the carbs. Then you check idle speed again, and then make sure the oil pump is set correctly.

 

[soccerdad]

And the manual should REALLY help you. It is free. Just google seadoo manuals. You should have one in your computer in about 45 seconds from when you start.

 

[mikidymac]

Once you get the carbs back on but the air cleaner off I back the idle screw out so it is not touching the throttle lever. This allows the carb butterflies to close all the way. If you get your ear close and open them then snap them closed you can actually hear if one is closing before the other after you snap it a few times. Then you can adjust the link bar until you can't hear a difference and they are not opening at the same time. Now turn the idle screw in one full turn after it contacts the throttle and this will get your idle close.

Before you start it look at the front of the oil pump and you will see a small line on the pump body and one on the arm when looking head on to it. these need to be adjusted to line up.

Now it is safe to fire it and it should idle about 2500 rpm out of the water and 1500 in the water but you might have to adjust the idle screw. Any time you adjust the idle screw you need to reset the oil pump adjustment too.

 

[mikidymac]

Sorry Soccer dad, must have been typing at the same time.

 

[sittin sidewayz]

Thanks guys. SO I hit the lake with my lady.. Long story short she says I should sell the ski for a newer one... (idk if I can give up on it yet)

So I got everything aligned and hit the lake. Idle is about 1500 in water.
For some reason its only starting choked.... After I got past the no wake zone i hit full speed... For a few seconds and then the power dropped down and came back and dropped and............ You get it.
I switched it to reserve and it ran somewhat normal for a lap... I smoked another 4 stroke ski.... Then the same symptoms...
Im at a loss