3rd season and 40 hour maintenance

[eldomi809]

So it just hit 74 degrees here in boston and even though the real riding season is about 2 months away, one can get excited and start thinking about getting on the water.
I have worked on my jeep many times but the jetski i find is more sensitive and something done wrong can mean being down a whole season.
I called the dealer and asked about what the maintenance should be given that its going to be the third season on the water but it only has 40 hours always winterized and used pink antifreeze as it sits outisde for the winter.
They said oil change/filter and plugs would be fine and that nothing else should be needed.
how true is this?

 

[red2blue]

So it just hit 74 degrees here in boston and even though the real riding season is about 2 months away, one can get excited and start thinking about getting on the water.
I have worked on my jeep many times but the jetski i find is more sensitive and something done wrong can mean being down a whole season.
I called the dealer and asked about what the maintenance should be given that its going to be the third season on the water but it only has 40 hours always winterized and used pink antifreeze as it sits outisde for the winter.
They said oil change/filter and plugs would be fine and that nothing else should be needed.
how true is this?

After overpaying for my first at 10hrs or so....oil+filter and a fresh set of plugs are all I've personally ever done at the start of the season.

 

[eldomi809]

After overpaying for my first at 10hrs or so....oil+filter and a fresh set of plugs are all I've personally ever done at the start of the season.

How many seasons?
Im worried about the pump or inr needing service.

 

[Coastiejoe]

After overpaying for my first at 10hrs or so....oil+filter and a fresh set of plugs are all I've personally ever done at the start of the season.

Doing it at the end of the season is a better way to go.
The reason behind this is, getting rid of any contaminated oil so that it is not sitting in the block all winter long. Once you pull it out for the new year you simply start and go,,,

 

[eldomi809]

Doing it at the end of the season is a better way to go.
The reason behind this is, getting rid of any contaminated oil so that it is not sitting in the block all winter long. Once you pull it out for the new year you simply start and go,,,

Yea. that sound like a better plan.

Do you more experienced users think that at 40 hours/2 years the ski should have more in depth maintenance?

 

[Sandman_73]

Go ride... Your overthinking things. 40hrs is barely broken in. Oil/filter is about it. Plugs still have a LOT of life in them.

Pump/prop should be fine assuming no damage. Take a bright flashlight and inspect the pump from both sides taking a look at the prop for any signs of significant damage. Small dings are normal and wont hurt anything

 

[eldomi809]

Just got the jetski serviced (peace of mind). I read the documentation and it looks like they only used 3qts of oil for the oil change, this was the same amount used in the 2nd season oil change. Is 3qts enough?

 

[Hawk388]

Just got the jetski serviced (peace of mind). I read the documentation and it looks like they only used 3qts of oil for the oil change, this was the same amount used in the 2nd season oil change. Is 3qts enough?

Check your oil dipstick while the ski is level. Then run the engine until warmed up and check it again. There is some oil that simply won't come out of the engine during an oil change. But 3qts sounds about right to me from what I've read.

 

[Sea Dood]

One of the things I've never liked about the 4TEC engine is the fact that you cannot remove all the oil at oil change time. The capacity when dry is about 5 quarts, but from that point forward, you can only extract about 3 quarts. This means that almost 2 quarts of old oil remains, and will be diluting the new oil you put in.

 

[eldomi809]

thank cant be good. in my case i dont ride enough for the oil to loose its consistency (burn out) only about 20hrs a season but nonetheless i would prefer to have all the oil in the be the same viscosity.

 

[Hawk388]

thank cant be good. in my case i dont ride enough for the oil to loose its consistency (burn out) only about 20hrs a season but nonetheless i would prefer to have all the oil in the be the same viscosity.

When it comes to PWC's, I cannot think of a single brand that allows for complete drainage. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But since 1993 when I got my first Yami Waveblaster, I've not been able to pull every single bit of oil out of a PWC engine without mods.

That being said, the truth of the matter is pretty simple. If you're doing regular maintenance and service, an oil change on these things is sufficient even when you can't pull all of the oil out. If you're that concerned, do an oil change, run it for two hours and then, do another. Concurrent oil changes give the longest life on these types of craft. However, how long will you ACTUALLY keep it?

I do my due diligence. Yet my oil changes vary based on the platform. My last boat was a Bayliner 24' boat. It has a specific drainage path for oil changes to the 5.0L V8. That was the norm for boats. For Jetski's, I've yet to own one that allowed for complete oil drainage. Not to say there isn't one. But in the Yamaha's and Seadoo's I've owned before, there has always been some oil left in the motor.

Long assed post to say simply that you cannot get all the oil out without tearing the motor down.

 

[jammin777]

i learned from a video (3ftdeep) i watched that once you suck the oil out, turn it over in flood mode (full throttle so it doesn't start) a few times and are able to get more oil out. do this a few times till no more oil can be drawn out.
that's what i did on my GTI 130 when i did my oil change and worked. if i remember right there's some oil trapped in the pto area and that how to get most of it out.

question, the oil level on my dipstick is right on the halfway mark between the 2 bends, is that good? i read that it's good not to over fill.