WaarrEagle
Active Member
The service manual also specifies how many volts you should see at the battery at idle and at ~5500 RPM. Check those before you replace anything.
2002 GTX Di
- Thread starter mike4slund
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mike4slund
Member
Okay. So fuel pressure is good. Charging within specs now.
Out of the water with a hose it'll Rev to 6500 rpm.
In the water. Top speed is 10mph and 3080 rpms.
No lights or beeps on. Just 10mph and 3080 rpms.
Out of the water with a hose it'll Rev to 6500 rpm.
In the water. Top speed is 10mph and 3080 rpms.
No lights or beeps on. Just 10mph and 3080 rpms.
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mike4slund
Member
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Checked compression yet?
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Case cooler line
mike4slund
Member
Yes. Was within spec. That was done when I originally posted this. Freshly rebuilt motor.
So probably not the cause if completely clogged with sand?
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Out of my own experience, we have yet to have an aftermarket pump that would work on a DI...including the one your picture. DI's are nightmare!!!
You need will need a BUD's eventually,,,and need to find an original used pump.They can be a champ on the trail or a chump in the water with the after market pump,,,!!!
Be very careful finding a used original pump..we have received pumps that look like they sank with the titanic!!!...and were totally un useable!!!
Unfortunately the after market ones draw too much current...and don't produce enough pressure...and often you will get 12 volts maintenance...thinking it's the regulator or battery,,,and it's not,,
There many threads out there regarding the DI fuel pump issues!!!
Some will say it's a plugged intake sock,,at the bottom of the tank,,,I have never been that lucky...
People get rid of them for a reason...initially...a new OEM pump sold for $1200, here in Canada,,the manufacturer,,,Etek,,,something like that, stopped making them...
Get someone to steal it...or drown it in a lake during a bad storm...and avoid migraines and a money pit.
mike4slund
Member
Thank you for the information. I never put that pump in and I am not going to. The current one is still original and has pressure. My fuel pressure gauge only goes to 100. But the pressure goes past this.
I'm starting to think it may be impeller or wear ring related? The gap between impeller and wear ring is out of spec.
The engine runs fine out of water. Revs up past 3000 rpm.
Drop er in the water and 10 mph and wont Rev past 3000 rpms.
Ima get this thing figured out for sure. Just a few questions along the way.
jimmyluke
Active Member
So you really don’t know if your fuel pressure is good because your gauge only goes to 100. Fuel pressure should be 107 psi plus or -2 psi. Since it had the original in-line fuel filter on it I would not take it for granted that the original owner did any preventative maintenance. I would pull the fuel pump module out and change the two internal filters -you can use the filters that came with the aftermarket pump. More than likely the fuel and air injectors were probably never professionally cleaned so it would be a good idea to send them out to be cleaned.
jimmyluke
Active Member
Certainly that is an issue that should be addressed but I’m not sure how that would affect performance.
jimmyluke
Active Member
Referring to the drain line being clogged with sand
Miki...I have a troubled DI with 110/120 psi...some threads suggest these numbers are okay. the motor was supposedly rebuilt,,,but water appears on the rav valves, when I take them out...,,I am thinking water is getting in at the xhaust the head pipe gasket, since the middle bracket bolt is sheared off (not a new phenomenon).
Your thoughts?
mike4slund
Member
Checked compression again since I found out I didn't do it correctly.( Did not hold throttle open). I'm at 150 psi. Both cylinders. I stuck a camera down inside spark plug hole. Everything looks flawless.
I'm going to find a Guage that goes higher than 100psi and recheck. I will pull the fuel pump and swap filters. While I am at it. I am going to remove fuel and place fresh fuel in. That way I know for myself that fuel is good.
I've already swapped plugs to new ones.
I do know the wear ring is bad. However, May just be a secondary problem. But it needs to be repaired regardless.
Already swapped out clear hose clogged with sand. Upon pulling it. Water started to drain and drip for a while.
Should any fuel injector shop be able to do this? Or do ya'll have a recommendation for that?
Is there anyway to check the oil injector pumps function? Do these commonly fail? I would hate to see the engine get destroyed because of it. I saw on eBay a block off plate. I had a 2 smoke dirtbike that the pumps were common failure. So I removed the oil tank and mixed my own fuel. However. I don't really want to do that if these pumps are not common failures.
Will continue to report! I would like to thank each one of you for the continued help and support.
I'm going to find a Guage that goes higher than 100psi and recheck. I will pull the fuel pump and swap filters. While I am at it. I am going to remove fuel and place fresh fuel in. That way I know for myself that fuel is good.
I've already swapped plugs to new ones.
I do know the wear ring is bad. However, May just be a secondary problem. But it needs to be repaired regardless.
Already swapped out clear hose clogged with sand. Upon pulling it. Water started to drain and drip for a while.
Should any fuel injector shop be able to do this? Or do ya'll have a recommendation for that?
Is there anyway to check the oil injector pumps function? Do these commonly fail? I would hate to see the engine get destroyed because of it. I saw on eBay a block off plate. I had a 2 smoke dirtbike that the pumps were common failure. So I removed the oil tank and mixed my own fuel. However. I don't really want to do that if these pumps are not common failures.
Will continue to report! I would like to thank each one of you for the continued help and support.
There are many automotive sights/videos showing how to check the spray pattern for a car/DI fuel injector using just a 9 volt battery and a can of carb cleaner, I have done it, a second set of hands is very useful.
Remember, the spray from the fuel injector ,,,or air injector does not increase,,,it is a constant pattern/cone.
What changes is the number of sprays per second etc..
It would be nice to have a BUDS unit to check and rule out ALL sensors,,,especially throttle positioning sensor.
Remember, the spray from the fuel injector ,,,or air injector does not increase,,,it is a constant pattern/cone.
What changes is the number of sprays per second etc..
It would be nice to have a BUDS unit to check and rule out ALL sensors,,,especially throttle positioning sensor.
mike4slund
Member
Maybe some day. Just not in the cards right now. Lol.
I'm afraid to take the injectors off as I don't know what I need to replace once taking it off. The parts diagram is a bit complicated. I'm going to print it at work tomorrow and highlight stuff I need.
WaarrEagle
Active Member
www.fuelinjectorman.com . Send both your air and fuel injectors (4 total) if you think they are the problem. Try unplugging each injector individually to see if the engine idles smoothly.
Oil pumps are rarely a problem on the DI. An inline fuel gauge would be useful to watch vs just testing at key insert/idle.
I put off buying a CanDooPro for WAY too long. Eventually had to bite the bullet and get one - best money I ever spent on the ski.
Oil pumps are rarely a problem on the DI. An inline fuel gauge would be useful to watch vs just testing at key insert/idle.
I put off buying a CanDooPro for WAY too long. Eventually had to bite the bullet and get one - best money I ever spent on the ski.
mike4slund
Member
Tyman2020
Well-Known Member
Yes. You have to drill the rivets
mike4slund
Member
I was able to get it out. But I don't know if i got the new filter all the way back down. Guess I will drill them rivets out.
WaarrEagle
Active Member
How on earth do you get sand in the fuel tank?? That looks terrible. There is a good video on YouTube for taking the canister apart if you need it:
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
You should never have to drill out the rivets. Usually the filter comes out with the pump. If not I have just used a long screwdriver and popped it out.
Make sure you collect the two washers at the bottom. The red fiber one and the metal one. it is imperative that you put them back in in the correct order that they came out.
mike4slund
Member
Thank you! and I don't know. Obviously this ski is new to me and I haven't had time to get sand in there. I wish people were more careful and took care of things. but then again if they did, my shop would be out of business. lol
Yeah, the washers scared me when I was cleaning out and they fell into the garbage can! :O I got them back tho. and the video helped me put them back where they came from.
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Tyman2020
Well-Known Member
It sure is a hell of a lot easier to just drill the rivets but thats just me lol
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