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2002 gtx di missing

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I wouldn't get my hopes up too much. I still think you have something else going on.
When you push the stop button to shut the ski off do you hear it cycle two times? The rave solenoid should cycle the rave valves two times wiping the off. If not then the solenoid is not operating the rave valves limiting the top speed/power curve.
The blue adjustment caps on top of the rave valves, are they screwed all the way down? If not then screw them all the way down.
The WCV (water control valve) on top of the exhaust is another concern. Looks like a rave valve. Pop the top on it and see if the rubber diaphram has a pin hole in it from the hose clamps rubbing.
 
I do know that when I shut the ski off I do hear something cycling but I will check that out to make sure. I'll check the other things like you said also that water control valve is that for my water flow situation or are you thinking that could be limiting my RPMs? Thanks for your help so much I appreciate it.
Jim
 
My 03 GTX DI will only hit 50 MPH at 6800 RPM. I am bigger (270). I have a miss that I did not have around 4K I need to investigate. I do not notice the miss that [MENTION=20888]jhjesse[/MENTION] mentioned. I was listening for it. Good luck out in Catawissa. Where do you ride? Susquehanna? I know Knobels has some fun rides... but not for a ski.
 
Thanks for the info on the miles per hour from what I understand the 2002 model is bigger and slower than the 2001 and under skis. Yes I ride on the Susquehanna River the closest place to me is the shikellamy marina near Sunbury Pennsylvania-about a 45 minute ride. I'm only about 3 miles from Knoebels amusement resort.
Thanks Jim
 
So I checked out the water control valve on the muffler and it seems to operate like it should- no holes in the diaphragm and it holds pressure when I blow on it and close the appropriate holes. The rave valves do cycle twice after shutting off the machine. Also the adjustment on top of the raves are turned in fully. So I just took it out on the water and the maintenance light came on after about one minute of running - it ran well but I could not get the maintenance light to reset and I tried many times till my finger was sore LOL. I was certainly hoping for an easy fix. So is there any sensors that I could unplug and if the light went away would pinpoint the problem? Or do I have to bite the bullet and buy a candoo-pro?
 
I came across this in the shop manual today and it said to hold the "set" button for two seconds. I held it for at least five seconds each time I tried it. But I suppose I could give it a try. The light doesn't come on until 4000 RPMs and then goes away when I go under 4000 RPMs approximately. I held the button while the light was on while I was riding the ski over 4000 RPMs.
Thank you Jim
 
Throwing a code and needs to be read. Dealer anywhere close by that can hook it up to a buds?
 
The nearest dealer is 50 miles away and cannot get me in for two weeks. So I bit the bullet and ordered a candoo-pro home/Limited addition - $386.24 delivered from PWC muscle!
 
Well I got my candoopro Scan tool and cleared the existing codes. I took the ski for a ride today and ran good for the first 20 minutes (I still only get 6500 RPM at 40 to 42 mph) and then the red maintenance light came on but continued to run good -maintenance light would come on around 5000 RPMs and go out under 5000 RPMs but I continued to ride it with the same symptoms for another 20 minutes or so. when I got home I put the scan tool on and the only code that came up was "p0563" "hi battery voltage". On the scan tool it indicated that the engine was at 5100 RPM at 18.1 V when the fault was triggered. I put the meter on The battery while I was flushing the engine and I got 13.5 V at 3000 RPM and 13.5 V at 5000 RPM which seems pretty good. This is the second regulator/rectifier that I put on- the first one was a cheapo from eBay and the second one that is currently on the ski is a heavy duty one from OSD parts.com. Several weeks ago I checked the original rectifier that was on the ski when I got it and the cheapo rectifier that I removed after only one hour of use and according to a YouTube video the diodes checked out OK. I didn't check this heavy duty OSD rectifier yet. Could a rectifier be bad and yet check out good on a diode test? Any ideas on my high battery voltage situation would be appreciated.
Thank you Jim
 
I am not sure why your ski would do this.
Just thinking back, last year while riding my 02 RXDI did something very similar to what your are describing. It is the only DI ski that I own that I did not rebuild. It came with a fresh SBT engine from the PO. It is also the only ski I own that doesn't have an OEM rectifier. (OSD)

Just wish i could figure out where the last 400rpms are on your ski?
 
Are you referring to the voltage situation or the RPM situation? Mine came from the previous owner with the SBT engine in it with about 40 hours on it.
 
I do not know if it is a sealed gel or a liquid acid? I just pulled the battery-here's what it says: "DEKA" brand. "Sports power, absorbed glass Mat technology, ETX.maintenance- free, spill proof, long life, vibration resistant design". The date on the side of the battery is 2/17. Part number ETX16L. 325 cca. What type should it be?
Thank you Jim
 
That is an agm. Have you checked your grounds on the rectifier? I would throw a meter on it (remove storage box) and watch the meter and see if you get the same result.
 
Well it is possible you got s bad new rectifier. 18v will cause running issues and it is not normal to have the maintenance light on. I would call OSD tomorrow and tell him what his new rectifier is doing. He is super nice and a stand up guy.
 
Tkarvelis- AGM = sealed as in sealed gel? Also I don't quite follow your test for the rectifier could you please elaborate. Thank you.
Thanks mikidymac but osd does not have a listed phone number.
 
I called Nick at the above number and left a message at 4 PM so maybe he'll get back to me. In the meantime With the battery out of the machine I disconnected both wiring harness from the rectifier and checked continuity on the three yellow wires (that were hooked to the Rectifier) that go to the stator. Two of the wires had continuity between them ("000" on the meter) The other wire had 5 ohms between either one of the other two. The manual calls for .1 to 1 ohm. When I disconnect the other end of the harness at The stator (6 pin connector) and again check the same three yellow wires on the rectifier end of that same connector I get an open line between all three wires (eliminating the possibility that the wires themselves are shorted to one another between the rectifier connector and the stator) . Did I stumble upon my problem( the stator)? Or am I getting a false reading because of the other three wires on the six pin connector at the stator. For doing this test the manual calls for a six pin magneto harness adapter part number 295000136 which of course I do not have. Was my test accurate enough? Or does this special adapter eliminate the other three wires from interfering with an accurate test?
Thanks Jim
 
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