2002 gtx di missing

[Eavedesian]

Youre misinterpreting the manual. What you are checking is the condition of the stator. The reading you want is below 1 ohm between any 2 phases. The stator is basically intertwined windings of wire that help create the magnetic field. The one winding that read 5 ohms is your concern. I would do the other test that says check each winding to ground, specifically on that wire.

 

[jimmyluke]

Yes I did misinterpret the manual. I see now that they actually wanted continuity between the three yellow wires. Since my ohm meter on the "200" setting had .3 ohms I put the meter on "2000" to get it to zero. Someone informed me that I shouldn't have done that. So today I put the meter on "200" and rechecked. My resistance now reads .7 ohms between any of the three yellow wires minus the .3 ohms that the meter is off so I'm actually down to .4 ohms. The manual calls for .1 to 1ohm. So that checks out good. Just for curiosity I put the meter back on the "2000" Setting (where it was yesterday) and All the legs read "000". So something changed since yesterday possibly from me plugging and unplugging the connector at the Stator. Put the meter back on "200" and checked the three yellow wires to ground and none of them had continuity to ground so that checks out OK. I then checked the same three yellow wires (from the stator) with the engine running at 3500 RPM and got 48 AC volts. The book calls for 45 to 70 V AC so that checks out good also. I still haven't heard back from nick at OSD Parts.com about my regulator. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll take it for a spin after work and see if anything changed.
Thank you Jim.

 

[Eavedesian]

I just ordered one as well! Lol!

 

[jimmyluke]

Well I took The ski for a test ride this evening. About two minutes or less after getting out of the no wake zone the maintenance light came on. And again when I go under 5000 RPMs the light goes out. I brought it home put it on the candoo- pro scan tool and as expected had a high voltage it was 18 V when the fault triggered at 5500 RPM. So while flushing the machine I checked voltage at 5500 RPM and I got about 13.8 V and only held it there for about one to two seconds Before backing off the RPM. I had left the scan tool on during this test and it did not show any faults. I also checked for AC voltage at around 3000 RPMs and did not have any. The other day before taking it out I looked at my engine ground it felt tight and looked pretty good but I did not pull it off and clean it up- maybe I'll try that next. Any ideas?
Thank you for any help Jim.

 

[Eavedesian]

Have you reseated the mpem connectors? Also I'd tie in a meter to the battery while driving. Also, I'd unplug the speedometer/flapper wheel cable. If you want to give me a jingle, feel free. I've learned a bit about this thing since I bought my "fully working" GTXDI. LOL. 313-268-0541

 

[jhjesse]

I don't know how much more plain l can type this. 18vdc is too much voltage. Not only high voltage, but AC voltage on top of that. AC voltage makes these skis do weird crazy things. Do yourself a favor and get an OEM rectifier. ALL other rectifiers are junk. Stop throwing good money after bad. Swap that OSD rectifier for an OEM rectifier.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=1472

Or here to purchase separately #36: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...13&c=0&d=-ELECTRICAL---MODULE-AND-ACCESSORIES

I know you are thinking that the OSD rectifier is heavy duty, but the fact remains they were made originally for 4tec skis. Different setup. OEM DI rectifier is made specifically for DI skis.

 

[jimmyluke]

Yes thank you I do realize that 18 V is too high. I've never gotten 18 volts with my meter- the Scan tool indicated that the fault triggered at 18 V. I get 13.8 V with the engine running at 5500 RPM so that kind of seems like the rectifier regulator is working. I do not have any AC voltage at the battery. The only time I had ac voltage was when I was checking the stator with the rectifier unplugged and the engine running at 3500 RPM and had 48 AC volts and that was how much I was supposed to have according to the manual. Thank you for your recommendation I have no trouble spending of the money on an OEM rectifier if I think that will cure the problem. I just thought I had a heavy duty rectifier because it was recommended by somebody on here and I thought I had the best there was.

 

[jhjesse]

Yeah at some point during your ride something is triggering the rectifier to go awry. Maybe it's heating up or loading up, something...not sure. I don't think you will see AC voltage at the battery on the trailer unless you can exactly mimic riding conditions.
As I stated before one of my 4 DI's has an OSD rectifier. It performs well 90% of the time, but every once in a while it will act up. That is why I stick with OEM. This off season it is getting changed, but not now as it is my beater/loaner ski.

 

[jimmyluke]

Oem rectifier ordered

 

[jimmyluke]

While waiting for my OEM rectifier to arrive I cleaned up the battery to engine ground, battery to MPEM ground, and the rear electrical box to engine ground at the engine. (I did not follow this Engine to rear electrical box wire close enough to see where it attached in the rear electrical box in order to clean it). Also to possibly help with my other issue of my engine not reaching maximum rpm's I cleaned the rave valves. There was some carbon on both raves and the Seal that is pressed in to the pto rave housing looked like it might be compromised ( ordered two rave repair kits). So I installed the new OEM rectifier and rode the ski two different occasions for about one hour each with no maintenance light coming on-hallelujah! Thank you jhjesse for the firm recommendation of the OEM rectifier. Fyi-my original OEM rectifier, the cheapo eBay rectifier, and the heavy-duty OSD rectifier all checked out good when doing a diode test.
A fellow forum member discussed with me that there was no way to properly check these rectifiers.
As far as my rpm issue goes I was only reaching about 6500 rpm's but after cleaning the rave valves I actually lost about 200 rpm's and about 2 mph down to 38 mph. Later I found out that the brass tube that connects the airline to the rave housing popped out of the housing. (it looks like it was just a light press-fit)What do you think to refasten it-super glue, red Loctite, or some sort of epoxy?
Thanks for your help JIM.

 

[tkarvelis]

Red Loctite

 

[jimmyluke]

Thanks will do

 

[jimmyluke]

Had the ski out several different occasions for a total of maybe four hours since new oem rectifier/regulator and ski is running good no maintenance light -awesome! I'm still only getting about 6500 RPM . Someone suggested to me to pull off the hose at the tuned pipe coming from the water regulator valve while the ski is strapped to the trailer while backed into the water and watch for the water flow to decrease as I rev up the engine. So I did that and the water flow increased instead of decreasing as I revved up the engine. (I took it up to about 4000 RPM )So I looked at the Bellows on the water regulator- it looked good however I replaced it anyway and still no change. According to the manual there's a fitting which the water regulator screws onto which goes into the muffler it should have an I.D of .156" - mine measures about .118 inches. Should I drill it out ? Though this sounds kind of counterproductive because in my reasoning more water flow would be going to the muffler and less water pressure available to overcome the water regulator valve spring- shutting off the flow to the tune pipe like it is supposed to.
Thank you Jim

 

[jimmyluke]

For those that have not been following -this is a 2002 Sea-Doo GTX-DI.