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2001 sportster 5900rpm max

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shuka

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I have a 2001 sportster the enigine runs great but maxs out at 5900 rpms. The impeller just changed carbs rebuilt and rave valves cleaned. The other day i was checking for kinks in hoses and found the rave valve solenoid wire disconnected and thought wow i finally found the problem NOPE. I am thinking the all the rave valve hose are installed incorrect. Does anyone have or know where to get diagram for the hose connections? Also how do you check solenoid is working?
 
Did you check at the engine side, is the "max" actually max?
My throttle cable was loose, so the max is only 3/4.


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Hi and welcome to the SeaDoo forum.

You noted that you changed the impeller, are you using a stock impeller?

Lou
 
Yep to both of the above.


It's VERY common to find the throttle cable miss adjusted. If it doesn't open all the way... you dont' get full power... and if it opens to far (it's the stop at full) then you wind up breaking the cable.

AND... if they put the weren't impeller in it... you won't go anywhere. (bogs the engine)


Finally... have you simply checked the compression? Low compression = Low power.
 
Impeller is a solas 15/20 - compression is 130/135 - will check throttle cable but still think its related to rav valve solenoid
 
What I did was looking into the carb to see if the plate is wide open at max.


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So its nothing to do with rave valves or solenoid. Check the blue hoses in these pics and were they end out. Also here is a pic of trottle is this correct setting...?
 

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Assuming this is a carbed boat and if your RAVES system is working (be sure of this, mine was gummed too much one time) then check to make sure your 80% throttle 10 degree ignition advance position switch(TPS) is working, the signal to the MPEM is on connector 2 pin 17
 
This is the schematic for the later carbed 951, the earlier 951s (1999?) didn't have this TPS switch.
 

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BTW, it's muy importante your cooling system plumbing is correctly connected, here is a link to the correct diagram. The earlier 951 used a reverse flow from the later 951 (1999 on?) so keep this in mind b/c is causes plenty of confusion. The later (1999-on) is the better setup of the two, IMO.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...make=seadoojb&a=146&b=1&c=0&d=-COOLING-SYSTEM

Edit: You need a copy of the OEM BRP shop manual!!! There is no BRP shop manual for the 951 boats as far as I know, so I use the 2001 jetski shop manual and it also has complete diagrams of the plumbing showing quite a bit of detail for the function of each hose and the direction of water flow, I recommend you to get the 2001 jetski manual and follow the 951 section. There are all of the skis in this manual (4 different 2-stroke motors for 2001) so make sure you're in the correct section for the 951 carbed engine.
 
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This is interesting.
Reverse flow still works?
Or Just a part of it reversed?


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The early(1998?) 951 cooling water enters from the bottom of the exhaust manifold and exits at the cylinder heads, there are some other changes as well, 1998 the 951 was really still under development. I think they realized by having the cooling water enter from the exhaust manifold this caused a water leak at the manifold flange due to the high pressure there?

The cylinder compression was too high and prone to detonation, and the carbs were calibrated differently.

I think most of the metric engine bolts are still interchangable, and maybe a few other parts.
 
The early(1998?) 951 cooling water enters from the bottom of the exhaust manifold and exits at the cylinder heads, there are some other changes as well, 1998 the 951 was really still under development. I think they realized by having the cooling water enter from the exhaust manifold this caused a water leak at the manifold flange due to the high pressure there?

The cylinder compression was too high and prone to detonation, and the carbs were calibrated differently.

I think most of the metric engine bolts are still interchangable, and maybe a few other parts.

Wow. 951 has different revisions then. So should use the year to be sure if switching parts between 951's?


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Where will this tps switch be located
And i see it on pic but know where it is or how to test it. If you can tell what i will need to thanks for all your help i have been tring to fix this from a year now with no seccess
 
The cylinder compression was too high

Ahhh, I see, they found out the problem and then made my boat too low just to be sure LOL.

I hope I have time in the fall to check into the engine. The 120psi is always a concern, isn't it?
Do I need to order parts at the end of the season even I just want to open the head to have a peek? I remember the gasket need to be replaced if the head got opened.



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Where will this tps switch be located
And i see it on pic but know where it is or how to test it. If you can tell what i will need to thanks for all your help i have been tring to fix this from a year now with no seccess

My TPS switch was defective, and I couldn't get past 6200 RPM without the ignition advance, if I recall.

To test mine, I back-probed the connector #2 pin 17 using a hat pin, you know the type that is shaped like a "T", and carefully pushed the pin into the connector pin 17, the WH-BR wire and measured the voltage, it should toggle about 80% throttle and more, I think it goes low from 5v to near zero.

The TPS switch is a magnetic hall effect integrated circuit switch mounted on the throttle/oil cable splitter box where the single cable is converted to two cables, mine is located right in front of the magneto housing lying in the bilge.

I replaced my rear cable assembly b/c the hall effect switch IC wasn't working but after removing the cable (and buying a new cable) I realized I could/ve replaced the 3-pin hall effect IC fairly easily but I'm rather glad I replaced the cable anyway b/c I really like new cables, they're so much smoother than worn out broken rusty cables are, LOL!

You also must have the correct impeller, the Sportster uses the same impeller as the LRV, I don't think it's quite the same impeller as the jetskis use, the sportster pitch is different, I think.

But check your TPS switch, you won't make 130hp if the ignition advance isn't working.
 
Ahhh, I see, they found out the problem and then made my boat too low just to be sure LOL.

I hope I have time in the fall to check into the engine. The 120psi is always a concern, isn't it?
Do I need to order parts at the end of the season even I just want to open the head to have a peek? I remember the gasket need to be replaced if the head got opened.



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If you pull the head you will need to replace the head gasket. Have you inspected the piston skirts through the RAVE ports yet? I guess if your pistons aren't scored the cylinder walls might not be in too bad of condition except maybe for rust pitting.

120psi is acceptable I tink, I measured this pressure on mine once after it was sitting for a week and the oil was in the crankcase, I hadn't started it that day.

What is your compression if you run your engine for 30secs first, more than 120 psi? I measure mine at 135psi once, after 30 secs of running. I prefer to measure the compression of an engine at/near it's normal operating temp, actually. To me this tells you more about the engine under normal operating conditions, instead of after the oil has run off the cylinder walls and the cylinder clearances are at maximum.

Squirrel say all of his 951 compression tests blow around 120psi. The 1998 madels are known to blow ~150psi.

General rule of thumb for any engine is you need more than 100psi, but this varies from engine to engine for various reasons (performance engines make a lot of heat), I think if your 951 motor started blowing any less than 110psi I'd just rebuild it at that point b/c if the rings aren't sealing and the piston will overheat and become a molten mass of aluminum (seize).

When a 951 seizes, it's common for them to throw a rod through the side of the crankcase, ruining the crankcase and maybe a carburetor and probably the reed cage.

Eventually you will need to rebuild your engine, every 2-stroke engine will eventually seize, but I don't think I'd do anything unless it started making strange noises or the compression dropped to around 110psi or under.

Listen to your engine for odd noises and make sure throttle response is crisp, no hesitation like it's running lean, a lean air/fuel mixture leads to detonation (detonation = fuel stops burning prematurely) and detonation will quickly roast a piston due to excess heat.
 
Expansion pipe water injection........

The water box valve is responsible for metering water into the expansion pipe injection and if there's too much water being injected at high speed, the resonant length of the expansion pipe will not match the resonance of the engine, and you will lose the effectiveness of the expansion pipe (expansion pipe operates as a sort of turbo charger) system.

The reason I mention this is b/c I think I see a black colored elbow at the expansion pipe water injection port that doesn't appear to be the factory fitting. I believe (my unproven theory) the factory fitting at the expansion pipe water injection has a specific size orifice to restrict water injection and operates with the waterbox valve (waterbox valve is tuned for the injector orifice diameter).

So I wonder if someone has changed the factory water injection orifice to some kind of other elbow fitting or swapped the wrong one with another that doesn't have the correctly calibrated orifice?

Too much water in your expansion pipe at high speed will cost you in performance, still you need some water injected to keep the exhaust pipe from overheating but the waterbox valve is supposed to reduce the injection flow considerably during high speed operation and I believe that injection elbow fitting orifice size is important to match the waterbox valve calibration.

So that's another possibility.

These boats are precisely tuned already from the factory, there really isn't much one can do beyond the factory tune to make them run considerably better without huge sacrifices to reliability, such as install snake-oil parts, the factory spec parts are the baseline from which experimentation might begin but IMO the factory already tweaked the 951 to max potential and then had to detune it somewhat b/c they discovered the 951 was grenade prone with their hotter early tune, LOL.

If you really need a faster boat cruise than 35~40 MPH, I say look elsewhere. In that case I would suggest looking at the Eliminator boats $$$$$$$, and then maybe settling for something less if you can't quite swing it. Speed costs money ya know. :)

Edit: I just looked at that fitting again, it does look like the OEM fitting, so maybe I didn't look close enough at first.
 
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Tried moving trottle cable rpm shot up like crazy. It must be in correct postion.
One other thing is the kast time we were out i noticed when my wife drove the water box valve was leaking at bottom of rave valve. So i removed it and the threads were stripped so in used sealer to stop the leak!
 
Tried moving trottle cable rpm shot up like crazy. It must be in correct postion.
One other thing is the kast time we were out i noticed when my wife drove the water box valve was leaking at bottom of rave valve. So i removed it and the threads were stripped so in used sealer to stop the leak!

Well that could certainly be your problem, I'm betting that part 19 the bellows in the water control valve has a hole in it, you need to either patch the hole or replace the bellows, I would highly recommend replacing the bellows, as they get weak over time, and use a cable tie instead of the clamp. The clamp has probably rusted and poked a hole in the bellows.

Lou

I forgot to post the parts link:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...make=seadoojb&a=146&b=1&c=0&d=-COOLING-SYSTEM
 

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I will check the bellows for holes and replace or put the zip tie. I should be able to see a hole correct? I also checked the soleniod for engine valves and it does click so the solenoid is good.
 
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