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2001 sea doo challenger 2000 question

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Ok today is set the timing day and take it for its maiden voyage. Looking at the manual it say I need a boat load of tools to do it...seriously ? I have an inductive timing light and the manual.. Can I just do it with that or am I asking for trouble ? Mercury 240 efi m2 jet
 
Not sure what you are asking?? You need a light, and some basic tools to adjust things. (Screwdriver, couple wrenches, and so on) BUT... if your flywheel doesn't have a mark on it already... you need to set TDC, and mar it first. (That takes a couple extra things)
 
I'm not even sure where to start. kind of overwhelmed at the task at hand I guess.. I started going through the manual and started adjusting the linkage as per instructions and now I'm at setting the static timing with only #1 plug in and I'm kinda lost. what number do I use to time it at cranking speed ? it says max timing 26 BTDC and idle speed / pickup timing 6 BTDC.
 
my flywheel has timing marks on it but nothing marked specific. I mean it does have "0" on it which should be top dead center on #1 right ?
 
Yes... zero is TDC on the #1 cyl. That's the top, starboard side piston.

As far as procedure... it's not a straight forward as a car, or motorcycle. But, the procedure is outlined in the manual. Start with setting the timing marks... and continue down the list. Once you have it set... start the engine, and check your idle timing. If you did things right... max timing should be correct.
 
have 130 psi across the board and spark on every cylinder so I'm on my way to a running boat. how do I ground out the other 5 cylinders to set static timing on #1 tho without having 5 plug wires disconnected and sparking all over the place.
 
No easy way on that one. You can get some grounding clips... but I generally just let them dangle.
 
oh ok , thought I might short something out or get juiced ...lol. ok so this is the newest problem. I can turn the key a few times to get the gas flowing and then start it and it will run for a few seconds and then stall out. I can hear the pump clicking for a few and then it stops. turn the key again and the same. I have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to fire up. I think the other pump that's not clicking is no good. I know theres a high pressure and a low pressure pump, I'm just not sure which is which and then theres the pump that's on the block right. I'm more then likely going to buy all new pumps and send the injectors out to be cleaned so I know the fuel system is 100%
 
will have new electric pumps in the mail today. also bought a diaphragm kit for the mechanical one mounted to the side of the block. why is that one even needed if there are 2 electric pumps ? what is its purpose? I also pulled the throttle body off and will be cleaning the injectors myself thanks to a nice handy video I found on youtube.. love youtube for stuff like this. COMPLETELY drained the 40 gallon fuel tank and will be replacing the brand new fuel filters that were only run for about a half hour. better safe then sorry. then its off to the gas station with 5 gallon containers to fill the tank back up with fresh fuel. the fuel I drained was a lot worse then I thought so hopefully all this will pay off and I can have my boat on the water for the rest of the weekend.

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To start with the pumps.....

You have 3 fuel pumps in the boat. Starting from the engine to the tank...

1) In the Vapor tank, there is a high pressure pump. It supplies the EFI rail with 36 psi. There is a regulator that returns extra fuel back to the tank. This system is like a toilet tank. The high pressure pump only makes high pressure... and has nothing to do with getting fuel into that tank. And, like a toilet, there is a float, and a valve to regulate the level in the tank. Because of this... you need pressure on the hose to feed the tank.

2) The square diaphragm pump on the block. This is your main fuel pump. It's 100% mechanical. On the back side... there is 2 vacuum ports that are open to the inside of the engine. These ports push and pull the diaphragm, and in turn... with the check valves, pumps the fuel from the tank, to the vapor tank. So... when you put it back on... make sure that the gasket is on the right way, and that it is sealed... AND... that you don't accidentally plug the holes with sealant.

The beauty of this type of pump is... that when it's full, and the diaphragm can't move... it simply stops pumping. BUT... if the lines are low/empty... it can move A LOT of volume. So... it's low pressure, with variable volume... and doesn't need a regulator.

3) The rectangle electric pump: This is your "Lift Pump". It only operates while cranking the engine. If you can think of an old outboard engine... there was always a "Fuel Bulb" in the system. And... before starting it for the day... you would reach in the back, and physically pump the bulb to make sure there was fuel in the line. (The fuel would drain back to the tank overnight) In our boats... the same thing happens. But, they replaced the bulb with the electric pump. SO... while at cranking speed... the diaphragm pump is VERY inefficient, and you would have to crank FOREVER if the filter was dry. So, they installed the electric pump to quickly suck fuel from the tank, and into the system. FYI... the 175 Sportjet didn't have this pump... and it was a bastard to start cold.


Hope that helps.
 
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Dr Honda, where is the lift pump located on these boats, I should check mine before trying to start. 2000 challenger 240
 
once again dr. explained perfectly. I just replaced all the diaphragms in the mechanical and replaced the high pressure pump in the vst. I broke the plastic insulators taking the old high pressure pump out. where can I find these and are they expensive ?
thanks again
 
Ok, I know of the one in the vapor tank, I'm replacing that now and need to get a regulator. I also know of the black square block pump with the filter into it about 2 foot behind the vapor tank..I thought that was the main pump? what's the 3rd and where.
 
3rd on is mounted to the port side of the block just under the oil pump. little square block with 2 hoses. one top one bottom.
 
so i actually got it to run and stay running. after buying another boat and feverishly changing over parts like the ignition module, ecm, starboard side temp sensor and actually took the arm off the triggers and swapped them as well as the throttle linkage so I know everything was set/timed to a boat that was already running. the second boat I bought sat for too long and got moisture in the motor and rusted up. was nothing wrong with it other then that. ok so I changed all that and turned the key and it went to start but didn't. I disconnected the throttle cable from the linkage and moved the lower part of the linkage by hand and it fired up and ran. it smoked and the smell of unburnt fuel nearly made my eyes bleed.
so I took it out for a ride and that sucker flies but the smell of gas fumes is SOOO strong and nothing is leaking. so I ride it around for a little bit maybe 15 minutes of so and go through different rpm's for break in. pull back in to the dock and let it sit with engine bay open and then after about 5-10 minutes go to start it again and have to do the throttle disconnect again and move only the lower part of the linkage and not the trigger arm and again it fires up and runs.
after running out on the lake again and going to an idle for like 2 minutes I hit the throttle again and its all loaded up but when it clears out it just wants to go go go... rpms around 6k.

any thoughts to whats making it load up and smell like gas and why I have to move the throttle arm to make it start. tps maybe ?
 
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