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2001 sea doo challenger 2000 question

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xlonewolf1967

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Just put a motor in my 2001 challenger 2000. It's a Mercury 240 efi sportjet. Have almost everything in and connected with the exception of the bleed system. Can someone explain to me where it is connected to and the purpose of it. I have the manual but it really don't show what it's purpose is. Also there's a line on the back of the efi unit that I don't know where it goes. Thanks
 
The bleed system is to suck oil, and fuel out of the corners of the block and manifold, where is will pool. It also helps oil the top bearing. Because of that... make sure you get it hooked up right. There's a diagram in the manual.

As far as the last question on "A line on the back of the EFI unit"... I need a picture to know what it is. I think I know... but don't want to assume anything.
 
yes I do see the diagram, but there is a "t" on the very top of the motor with a line from it. that is the line that I am in question of on the bleed system. where does it go ? it pulls suction from somewhere correct ? so I'm assuming that is connected to something that would pull suction and return the pooled fuel and oil to be burnt. and thank you tony for replying. appreciate your time. and looking better at the manual I found where the hose goes from the efi module or as they call it the ecm module.
 
Oh..... OK.

As I recall... that top hose, that's not hooked to anything in the manual... it goes to the nipple on the top of the vapor tank. It's the drain for the bleed system.
 
That's what I was thinking but wanted to confirm before I went and messed something up. The nice weather is finally coming here in Massachusetts and I want to be able to be out on the water and enjoying my new to me boat. I paid $2700.00 for it not running and it came with everything to rebuild the motor already done. It's a 1'owner boat and the guy just lost interest in finishing it. Interior is slightly faded but not ripped up and came with a poppy cover and like new trailer. Even have his original paperwork showing he paid $26000.00 brand new in 2001. I think it was a good deal . Thanks again for your help dr. Honda
 
ok I'm moving right along with the install but I'm stumped right now. am I missing something here. rear of the motor under the rev limiter the other black box which I believe is the ignition control module. I have 2 plugs that I cant seem to find a spot for. don't know if I'm missing a part or if I accidently covered the other end of the plug when I installed one of the other parts. as I said before I didn't pull the motor, the guy I bought it from did. they both come from the same place and one is a male and the other a female and I'm pretty sure they don't get plugged together.
thanks in advance
IMG_0568.JPG
 
got it... boy was that dumb on my part. went from the trigger right to the coils. completely bypassed the control module.
 
now that I have everything hooked up what I think is right, I have nothing from the key. brand new battery, shifter in neutral, safety lanyard in place and I turn the key and get one beep and can hear the fuel pump turn on and run for a minute and then shut off. but no starter. I can jump the solenoid and get the starter to turn but that's it. boat had sat for a few years so I guess its time to go through all the connections and check and clean them all. I'm clueless when it comes to using a volt meter so I think I should learn that one too... damn boats . so much fun but so much work
 
I would start with the wire at the solenoid. See if you get power when someone turns the key. It's probably just a bad solenoid.
 
yup going to do that tomorrow. is the fuse block in the drivers front compartment just that a fuse block or is that like an mpem/computer. I have labeled all the wires and am going to clean all the connections and crimp on new ends on the wires. they are a little cruddy. and hey doc... I appreciate all the time you take to help us out. I know your a busy guy.
 
The front fuse block on some of these boats has the logic board for the low battery alarm. But... it's not a "Computer" of any kind. The engine has it's own computer.
 
oh well I just cleaned the terminals and put new wire ends on it anyways. they were all cruddy and corroded. one less thing to worry about I guess... hate to be out on the lake and have the radio die on me... lol..
ok so now I'm going to go check all the wires on the solenoid and see what I can find. this thing stand true to the saying of "boat" break out another thousand. should have kept my chaparral....
 
Is there a universal starter solenoid I can get from like Autozone to use for now ? My local marina is closed today. Also I'm pretty sure I have the guardian system on my boat. Small square box mounted in front of the fuse block and has been tapped into quite a few wires behind the dash and into the neutral safety switch. How do I go about bypassing it as I have read they can be troublesome.
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Yep, that's a throttle guardian. They cause more issues than they solve. Ok... this one is hard to bypass... but if you do it carefully... it will be fine.

Step one: cut the black/yellow wire, and tape up the lose ends.

DONE !! LOL

Seriously thought... it watches the RPM's, and looks at the neutral switch, and then grounds the ignition via the black/yellow wire. Now... disconnecting that wire is all that needs done... personally, I would just remove it. (less crap to look at while working on the boat)


As far as a Universal Solenoid... an old style "Ford" solenoid will work.. But the issues are....

1) Not waterproof.
2) Not spark proof.
3) Normally grounds to the mount.


OK... #3 isn't really a big deal... but #2 is a no-no. You want to avoid sparks in the bilge area, since igniting fumes is a real issue. #1 is just a short life. Because of this... I would just wait to get a proper part. (but that's up to you)
 
I will throw a quick $20.00 on a ford solenoid just to keep working on it today and order a proper marine one later today.
Seems someone already hacked into the guardian. They cut the purple wire and taped it up. Goes to the tach and into the main harness.
I have all the connections to the selonoid cleaner then a brand new penny and gonna have the wife turn the key for me to see if I have power going to it.
Thanks again doc
 
The 2 big terminals are battery and starter. You will hook your key switch to the "S". You won't use the "I". The I terminal was used to give an old style points ignition full power during start-up. (most had a resistor in line to keep from cooking the points) The ground is the mount. (On the Merc unit, it's a small lug)
 
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Well got it to turn over by the key. Thanks dr Honda . Now no freekin spark. I give up. Anyone wanna buy a 2001 challenger 2000. Maybe I will just mount a trolling motor to the back and call it a day.
 
Did you put the lanyard on?? It will crank all day, with no spark with it off.


If it's on... I would go back to the engine, and disconnect the kill wire right at the CDI's. (and check it for a ground)
 
Going to try and figure out if the lanyard is working or not and then figure out if I put the trigger on up side down. ( is that even possible ) I have a feeling my lack of knowledge in using a volt meter is going to make me throw parts on this I may not even need. But I may have access to reasonably affordable parts.
 
Yes lanyard was on. Pulled flywheel and made sure it was not rusted and stopping signal to the trigger. The trigger does have cracks in it. So may replace that too. Which wire is the kill wire on the cdi's ? Yellow/black
 
Yep... black/yellow.


Figure out how to use a meter quick !!!!!!!!! it will save you $$$. It's no fun replacing parts randomly. The manual will generally outline what you need to do with the meter.
 
And one of the reasons I became a premium member is so I can get more info on testing stuff without having to bother you. I sincerely appreciate all the help. I'm sure I will have more questions but hopefully I can do more on my own. If I was closer to Pittsburg I'd buy you some beer...cheers
 
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