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2001 GTX carb removal

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BiXll

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Hi guys, first post after the intro post, so here go's! I bought a lightly used 2001 GTX. When I say lightly used I mean over the last 5 years (new motor was put in 5 years ago)the ski was run for 1 week a year when the PO I got it from was at his time share. It was taken back home and put in a heated garage until the next year. He estimates 100 tops in the 5 years he had it. Problem is, he knew NOTHING about skis and did NO maint. The ski fires right up and is super clean and I got for a steal so I took a gamble.

My head is swimming right now from all the reading I have been doing. First step was to replace the Tempo fuel lines which I did today as well as cleaning the selector switch. Next, I must rebuild/clean carbs as on the feed line into the carbs I can see the green gue on the end of the line. I know that I read somewhere that I can pull the carbs without pulling the exhaust pipe, but I can't find where I read it and how to do it. I gotta tell ya, looking at it I don't know for sure I can get them off. Can anybody help me out with either a link to a how to, or give me some guidance as to how to get these off?

I will have more questions on the actual carb rebuild once I get them off, but one step at a time........
 
Remove upper airbox scoops. 10 mm nut and bolt. Release the snap securing the main airbox right under the pipe. Slide the airbox out the back and twist. Now loosen the 4 bolts securing carb to the intakes. 6mm allan's for those. You can see the upper ones, but the lowers you will have to feel for them. Just take your time, have a beer, and all will be fine. Once you get those off, loosen the carb support bracket on the pipe (5 mm allan) and then wiggle the carb assembly off. There are two plastic alignment pins on the intake, so be gentle. You dont want to disform them or break them.

Now you can drop the carb assembly down into the cavity beside the motor, gives you a little more room. Loosen the choke plates (7mm nut on each carb) and loosen the two phillips screws holding the mounting bracket. This is not that crucial as it is very easy to align the choke plates.

Now remove the fuel lines and pulse line, normally I just cut the lines near the nipples instead of messing with those clamps and deal with them outside the ski. Now to remove throttle cable. loosen the mounting bracket again via phillips screws and now you have to hold the throttle butterfly wide open, then slide the cable end through the little cut out. (if you've ever replaced a brake cable on a bicycle its the same principal) Slide the carb assembly out the back just like the airbox.

As to rebuilding the carbs, read up on the sticky "carb adjustments" by Bill86se. Very knowledgeable and a great write up. Best way to clean those little passageways in the carbs is go to a welding shop, or even harbour freight and find a welding tip cleaner set. The little wires work great. Make sure to get/make a a pop off tester as well.
 
Thank you BiRkS. You time and effort is appreciated. I will most likely attempt this tomorrow. Is pop off check absolutly needed? I ask as I kinda hate to spend $45.00 on a tool I will most likely never use again?
 
I would like to make a suggestion. Unless you enjoy re-building carbs., send them to Dr Honda, he'll do a professional job probably for no more than you can do it yourself. You can PM him on this forum.

Lou
 
Pulling the carbs on a 951 is pretty sucky. Your lucky its a GTX, the GSX are even tighter!

The biggest issue is finding the right tools to reach things. Also be SUPER careful of the fittings that the gas/pulse lines go on. I sell those parts all the time and they arent cheap.
 
LouDoo said:
I would like to make a suggestion. Unless you enjoy re-building carbs., send them to Dr Honda, he'll do a professional job probably for no more than you can do it yourself. You can PM him on this forum.

Lou
Click to expand...
Oh my god, I think I love you! That sounds like a brilliant idea!!!!!! If I remember he is even in the Pittsburgh area so I amy be able to just take them to him!
 
Why can't I have someone like that near me?! I made a good friend with a guy who builds race seadoo engines, but things cost twice as much much up here as the states!

Shipping is the killer. So much for "free trade"

Highly recommend the dr. He knows his stuff.
 
Ok guys, had the day off so I was tinkering. Did a compression check before pulling the carbs and found I have 135 in both cyl. I think that is good , no?

I gotta tell ya, after working on a 99 Yamaha XLL, and Polaris SLTH I have new respect for you Seadoo wrench turners, there aint much room in there! I got the carbs off, but in doing so broke the purge line fitting off. I am sending them to Dr Honda so I am hoping he can replace it when he go's through them.

OK, new questions:

1-Where or how does the 951 get its oil? I found no oil lines going to the carbs???? I think I see an oil line that go's into the block just below the carbs at rear?

2-How in the world am I supposed to get to the oil pump without taking the pipe off? I can not even see it! I want to drain oil tank and replace lines and filter which would entail bleeding the pump. (learned that from another thread) With having to reinstall the carbs and messing with oil pump/lines should I remove the pipe to make things easier? Is it that hard to do or do I want to avoid taking it off if possible?
 
on the 951 GTX, you cannot access the oil pump (easily) without removing the pipe. any by easily, I mean with any human means.
 
OK, just looking at it it does not seem that hard to take off. Is there something I am not aware of? A reason I do not want to take it off?
 
I access it through the glove box (remove glove box and reach down in there...) To check aligment, I actually just use my phone, take a picture, then analyze it up close, then adjust the cable accordingly. Also, the bleeder is only a 7 mm. I just use a stubby 7 mm wrench, stick a rag under the pump, then crack it loose a couple turns, then wait until the bubbles stop.

To remove the pipe, lucky you have the carbs off, then a 10mm allan i beleive on the manifold bolts, and a 15 mm nut on the bottom. Then the band clamp, and the triangular bracket. Then remove the cooling lines. Hardest part is re-aligning the pipe, and you will need a new pipe-manifold gasket.
 
I will try that through the glove box thing, I was not looking fwd to taking the pipe off. I have done searches, looked in service manual, and parts manual. I can not find any diagrams of oil line routings. Mainly I am trying to find how oil gets from pump to motor?
 
There are two 3/32 oil lines (stock ones are in a silver sleeve). They run up and over the stator cover, clip in two spots, then attack to the underside of the intake manifold.
 
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Here are a couple pictures to help get you started from my rebuild this summer. Unfortunatly I lost that little sleeve, so this is how my lines are attached. Also very easy to check for leaks/oil flow.

engine.jpgoil ines.jpg
 
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I just went out and looked and thought I found them but mine are black? They also seem smaller, in fact I thought they were wires at first?

EDIT: I had the correct ones, maybe mine appear black do to having the blue TC3 oil in them?
 
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