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2000 Seadoo rx

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Sorry I haven't posted in a while guys! Latest update from my mechanic is he got the starter and it is fine. It's something on the inside of the motor that is the problem, any ideas?
 
Most likely the internal Bendix. If the starter spins but there is no engagement, then it can really only be three things. Low voltage, bad Bendix, broken teeth on the flywheel.
 
Thanks joe. Another question, could it be accessed by just un bolting the motor and sliding it back or will the whole thing have to be pulled?
 
So it's been awhile since I've been on here, but today I finally got the ski out and started tearing into it....I took the exhaust off and got the carbs off and was able to get to the starter. And unfortunately it's not the bendix...it is inside the motor. I'm assuming a gear induction or the fly wheel? I'm curious as to how much more work I'm looking at and how much costs will be roughly from this point
 
The bendix is inside the magneto housing and not attached to the starter like the older skis. You will have to pull the MAG cover and probably the flywheel to get to it.
 
So today I got to tinker some more and pulled motor complete out. We didn't have anything to pull the flywheel with so I went ahead and split the whole case unfortunately. I have a few pics and questions I will post as I'm not sure about a lot of this stuff
 
I'm assuming this is the bendix and circled is where the problem was...only one or two teeth barely sheared but enough it won't engage.
77.jpg
. Now can I replace just that piece, or do I have to replace this whole thing?
78.jpg
 
79.jpg


Also with this piece, which I believe is the oiler? May not be the correct name but I assume you guys know what I'm talking about. When it comes time to put it back together, is there a certain timing it needs be set to?
 
Well you're going to have to get the flywheel off now and the PTO to replace the crank seals.
The "oiler" is actually the counternalancer and yes is timed to the crank. There are marks on the gears that need to be aligned.

I am sure you figured it out that it would have just been easier to pull the flywheel instead of splitting the cases.
 
Yeah I would say so. It was one of those things where we wanted to just get to the source of the problem while we had the chance. But not only that see what all was going on on the inside of the thing since we found a good size blob of jb weld on the bottom of the case. I'm not to upset about it as I'm glad to be going through the whole thing...
 
Because as we have learned taking it all apart, it was half ass put back together after the so called "professional" rebuilt it
 
Your going to have to put it back together to pull the PTO and flywheel. You have to lock the crank with the pistons to get them off.
 
We have all been there. Once you get this thing running you will be an expert.
Feel free to ask anything. Hopefully before causing yourself more frustration.
 
Idk about an expert but I have a decent idea about it now lol!! While I'm waiting/searching on parts and misc hardware i need that was missing I will start working on all the fuel lines, I was able to clearly see all nasty green gunk from the grey tempo lines...is there anything specific about the carbs i need to known before i tear into them? Or anything else that should be done while the motor is out?
 
Replace the small little 3/32" oil lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold.

Mage sure you only use genuine Mikuni carb kits and needle and seats.
 
Okay thanks...I haven't even looked at any carb kits yet, I really don't want to tear into them but they probably need to be checked so I guess I will.
When I was looking at the parts manual last night, I found my starter drive assembly part number and was able to find it on osdparts, but when it comes the the starter itself, which I want to replace as well because it wasn't in the greatest condition, I wasn't able to find one with the part number the manual gave me
 
What is wrong with your starter?
Don't buy an aftermarket one.
Carbs should be gone through every few years.
 
85.jpg

The teeth on it have a little wear on them from where it was spinning and barely making contact with the drive assembly. This starter is a mitsuba sm-13. When I googled that last night all I was finding were Polaris ranger,quads etc starters.
 
If you are concerned about it I would get a good tested used one from Minnetonka4me here. He even warranties his used parts.
 
I'm curious as to why the crank seals have to be replaced...i believe your word just curious as to why they have to be. I'm getting ready to start ordering everything i need to put it back together
 
Over time the outer diameter of the seal compresses and conforms to the cases. Once removed there is very little chance of them being exactly in the same spot and sealing. Also they are old seals and now is the perfect time to replace them. If you reuse them there is a very good chance of them leaking air and seizing your engine. Whenever cases are split new seals should be installed and cases should be cleaned and new sealant applied.

You should also be pulling the pump, driveshaft and aligning the engine.
 
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