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2000 Seadoo LRV won’t stay running

J

JimTex

Member
I have a carburetor type LRV, you stray a little fuel in carbs and it will turn on but won’t stay running.
The previous owner disconnected the speedometer wires to install a Radio instead. Will the disconnected wires stop the engine from continuing to run?
What are all the things I need to check to get this fixed?
Thanks
 
Sounds like it’s burning up the fuel that your spraying in and then dying . Electrical isn’t the problem, check the fuel system. What’s the history?
 
I found also that they bypassed the fuel selector valve and I see one of the gas tank connections block off. I also found the forward carb chock cable disconnected. Here are pictures
 

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I ordered a fuel/ separator. I tested the fuel selector valve it seems to be good not sure why they bypass it.
Today I am going to check the fuel lines and vent to make sure they are clear and good. I will see in a few days when how it all works when I get all the parts in.
 
JimTex said:
I ordered a fuel/ separator. I tested the fuel selector valve it seems to be good not sure why they bypass it.
Today I am going to check the fuel lines and vent to make sure they are clear and good. I will see in a few days when how it all works when I get all the parts in.
Click to expand...
How did you test the fuel selector valve? They have by passed it because they were also have fuel issue and they thought that the selector valve could have been sucking air or partially clogged.
 
I took the fuel selector valve off the Jetski, I blew into the input then I felt all the air come out one of the outputs than I switched the selector and blew again and air came out the other output. I know it’s not clogged.
The previous owner said he rebuilt the carbs. Of course I don’t know what kind of job he did but he said he used Mukuni kit and he explained what he did so it sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
 
if he rebuilt the carbs then you should get a clear tube, hook it to the input on the carb then put the tube in a bottome of gas too see if the fuel pump is working
 
JimTex said:
I took the fuel selector valve off the Jetski, I blew into the input then I felt all the air come out one of the outputs than I switched the selector and blew again and air came out the other output. I know it’s not clogged.
The previous owner said he rebuilt the carbs. Of course I don’t know what kind of job he did but he said he used Mukuni kit and he explained what he did so it sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
Click to expand...
You would need to test the selector with a vacuum pressure to see if is sucking air, just because air will blow through it doesn’t mean it’s good. If you’ve by passed the fuel selector valve and fuel filter/seperator, then it’s most likely the carbs. Before buying a rebuild kit ( I would recommend back to IEM kit from OSD marine) you could take it off, verify that your pop off is correct and that the fuel pump is not leaking , check that high and low are at factory settings and that the right pilot and main jet is in there but might very well need to rebuild it.
 
Take the cover off the metering side of the carburetor, either buy or build a pop off tester, and apply air keeping an eye on the gauge to see when the needle pops off. To test the fuel pump just apply 4 pounds of pressure. Also when the carb is back together put 10 pounds of pressure on the fuel inlet fitting to make sure the needle isn’t leaking. You can find a great carb rebuild thread here on Mikidymac’s profile and also can find testing procedures in the manual which is free
 
Yw, I forgot to mention to wet the needle seat area with WD-40 when testing the pop off, you will be able to see if it’s leaking at the same time. Best to look over Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread first. It will fully explain it, and there’s pictures.
 
mikidymac

Thread 'The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread'

So, I know we keep talking about making a How-To thread on rebuilding carbs and never get around to it so last night I decided to finally get-r-done. This will be a work in progress as there are a lot of pictures and text to upload for this so give me a little time. I also welcome any tips and hints that others might have so we can make this as easy as possible for the first timers.

This will work for any of the Seadoo carbs except for the old round body carbs found on the early models and even the Yamaha's.

First off I am going to assume you have removed the carbs and it might not hurt...
  • Like
 
Ok, I finally had time to troubleshoot Jetski. I put carb input fuel line in a bottle of gas mixture. I put a little gas in carbs to prime them. I pulled chock and the engine turned on but was idle was high. Turned it off. Then on again but I ran for few more seconds, rived it sounds good. Before I figure out the gas tank, selector, fuel filter, and fuel lines problem I need to adjust carbs to idle better.
Do you have setting you recommend for me to follow?
Getting closer.
Thanks to everyone’s help.
 
I did 1 1/2 for low.
Where is the high?
What about the throttle adjustment screw, says something about a gap?
 
From the link I sent you, high is at 0 turns out. As for idle screw I’ve always just played with it till it idled around 1500 in the water
 
If you mean where is the high screw on the carb? The ones I’ve worked on have a black plastic cap over them that stops them from opening on there own, beneath the cap, it’s a slotted head
 
I’ve usually not needed to adjust the idle screw to much, it’s usually set pretty close to where it needs to be and when I’m rebuilding the carburetors I haven’t needed to adjust it much. If your idle is incorrect though, adjusting the low and high speed screws will not adjust your idle, you will need to adjust the idle screw for that
 
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