Ok, so I have 2 of my GTXs running like new now but am chasing an issue with the last one. It is a 1997 GTX that had run well until a month or so ago when it started to not hit peak rpm’s. It has good compression, new plugs, the carbs rebuilt, the RAVEs rebuilt and the water valve checked. I only have the coil and the rectifier left to check and ran out of time over the weekend. It starts and runs well both in and out of the water until I hit full throttle and then it stumbles. I would attach a 16 second video of what it is doing but this forum does not allow video, only image, and since I do not do any social media here is the link to another seadoo forum where the video can be found: PWCToday.com. I have the RAVE caps off at this time and held them closed to start the engine. I then hit full throttle and they opened fully without fixing the problem. You gurus out there please watch and listen to it and give me your thoughts. I'll pull the red wire next weekend for a check and I plan on changing the rectifier when it arrives from OSD and possibly the coil too. I might add that I checked the rear box and made sure all of the connections were cleaned and tight. Thanks all!
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1997 GTX question/issue
- Thread starter jchance
- Start date
Grim
Well-Known Member
Did you already do the rectifier check? Same with the coil. Get the service manual, free online ,and do the checks. My suggestion don't change anything unless it is bad, you could introduce new problems. Also try to get OEM if possible, aftermarket electrical and stuff with seals are a hit and miss.
Have the manuals. Been on PWCToday for YEARS. Came here after PWCToday not getting much traffic lately. Only done things so far that I would do to a ski with little use over the last 3 years (renovations to our lake home and 5 grands under 4). I’m thinking rectifier but could be a coil breakdown. Coil benched OK. Didn’t have time to pull red wire to check if AC interference. Video is on link in original post. Just trying to see what others think before I return there this weekend. Thanks!
BTW—OEM rectifiers not produced anymore and most aftermarket ones don’t work well or long.
BTW—OEM rectifiers not produced anymore and most aftermarket ones don’t work well or long.
How old is the fuel? Does it stumble at top end consistently? If you ride it slow for a bit, does it act differently when you rev to full throttle? What's your max RPM? You could still have a rave issue. Sometimes they get caught on the gasket. Make sure the threads are not pulled out of the plastic piston. That can happen quickly, less than an hour run time.
For anyone who wondered it wound up being a blown cylinder. The PTO side compression has fallen to 40 psi. Looks like a rebuild. This engine is a SBT from 2012 with only 155 hours on it. The decision now is jugs/pistons only or a complete rebuild AND whether to use SBT again or SES. Apparently the rumor is that SBT has been sold to a chinese company and the quality may have slipped a lot. Anyone know?
I keep hearing that SBT quality is very poor, however it’s possible that they sometimes take the heat when it’s the installers fault for not figuring out and fixing the issue that caused it to go down in the first place. I’ve read many posts where SES customers have complained of waiting over a year to get their engjne back from SES
IF it was me I would stay away from SBT and SES. SES you could wait years for your engine back, literally years.
SBT had never been great quality but they offer a warranty, you are paying for the warranty but you pay all shipping.
If it was mine I would do a top end, WSM or Pro-X pistons and machine work form Group K if you don't have a local 2-stroke machine shop.
SBT had never been great quality but they offer a warranty, you are paying for the warranty but you pay all shipping.
If it was mine I would do a top end, WSM or Pro-X pistons and machine work form Group K if you don't have a local 2-stroke machine shop.
