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1997 GSX Ground/No Go Issue

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Parked last year running, battery was removed, and a new one installed this season start. The only existing issue was the VTS didn't work. With the new battery I have power to the start/stop button, and my LCDs with key. No beeps anymore, but I think it used to. VTS still gone, but I discovered a blown fuse for it, and down makes a click on back. Up doesn't click and nothing moves. All the gauge buttons seem alright. There is no spark when I jump the starter, engine cranks fine when the starter is jumped across various points. With no spark, no spin, no up and down again... It really seems like a common issue, and I remember a second wire at the battery (-) terminal last year but not which ski it was, so I've been searching for that or similar issue downline. It looks like a duck, walks like a duck kind of thing was my first thought, but I can't find anything in pictures or ski. This is pretty common it looks like but I'm not finding clear conclusions across posts, or even my specific year as I guess there were changes made mid 97. Oh, to save time, I've checked for corrosion, loose connections, and fuses at the standard locations. Battery, rear electrical, connectors that are easily located front to back. Maybe I missed something that's usually obscured? Or could I have lost part of the front system with it being a single unit this year, while still having other functions?
 
Update: the VTS is causing a direct short and repeatedly blowing it's fuse, from there power isn't present returning to the electrical box. I can't bypass or correct the problem as I can't open the VTS casing. Hopefully liberal amounts of finesse by prybar can get it open and at least get power to other points. Is anyone else familiar enough with the wiring to explain why it's set up this way? It seems rather strange that more central system, especially ones more or less universal across models would be down line from an accessory only found on a few models. My only other thought here being that it's somehow a branch circuit I'm not grasping just yet and it's tie in is breaking a primary circuit that's in parallel instead of downline. Sorry, trying to avoid phrasing that identifies the system as a particular type of current model. Time to Google a diagram and start tracing again... One of the greatest of life's mysteries is how things just change behavior without visible reason. This hasn't worked in over 18 months but now is killing the entire system? Wth
 
I can't bypass or correct the problem as I can't open the VTS casing.

Just unplug it. On the beeps, test the beeper by unplugging it under the steering and send 12 volts directly to it. It should 'beep'. You need a good beeper to figure out what's going on, since that double beep is an indicator everything is a go at the MPEM to start and run. Yes, there should be a small gauge negative wire at the battery along with the starter to battery negative wire.
 
Just unplug it. On the beeps, test the beeper by unplugging it under the steering and send 12 volts directly to it. It should 'beep'. You need a good beeper to figure out what's going on, since that double beep is an indicator everything is a go at the MPEM to start and run. Yes, there should be a small gauge negative wire at the battery along with the starter to battery negative wire.

TL/DR-Quick answer, 1997 GSX's changed various parts and wiring mid year, so the ground is gone, the VTS & MPEM are NOT the same units, MPEM replacement doesn't look good. None of the repair sites appear to service the new one piece model. Use caution at a dealer, if one that fits is offered many don't work on 2-strokes. The buzzer test is a great idea! I'm wondering if it's a symptom or coincidence, this can help answer that.


I'm almost positive at this point that you're thinking of a different ski, at least for part of it. Honestly if I hadn't spent hours searching various threads and piecing them together I'm not sure if I would ever have realized it until I started trying to replace something. Apparently in 1997 SeaDoo updated at least the GSX, maybe a couple others as well but I don't have them to poke around, and the specific model has a serial numbers you can get an idea of when it was assembled. Some changes are available on slightly older ones, like it appears the VTS unit was changed from 96 early in the build model, but later in the run the MPEM changed, the second wire (believe me, I searched for 2 days because it's a perfect fit) doesn't exist anymore, and things like the electrical box wiring changed a bit. I only have 4 grounds at the lug where many report 5. There's a few other odds and ends to trip people up. I also have a different model 1 year older and part of my search for that ground was remembering seeing a smaller gauge wire connected on a battery but I'm pretty much positive its the one on the older ski. Man, I really was sure that was the answer, by the time I moved on my dad got curious being retired from a 40+year electrical career as well and after I described the issues told me I had obviously buried a ground behind the new battery when I put it in. A few hours later when I checked on him he'd put the battery back and moved on to the VTS. It's odd because it's never worked but now it's the only place power is found after it leaves the electrical box to go forward. I'm going to test out the assorted positive leads at the MPEM tomorrow to try to figure out exactly how it's distributed and controlled at that point. I am wondering though, with a ground issue being such a good fit, what about the MPEM circuit? It's (+) is fed ahead of everything else from the source it seems, and the (-) appears to be at the plug on the stator cover? I just saw it mentioned earlier and I'm at the point of tracing out every system and drawing up a ladder diagram. I'm thinking about getting a buzzer, maybe pull the other skis and use it to test, but something I noticed in other threads is either the damn thing dies exactly the same time as another thing and it's just coincidence to a point, but the other one is it stops working along with the ignition and the other critical systems. So is it another symptom, another odd coincidence, or just these things at some point shake themselves apart in one big pile like a shithouse shack in a good breeze? But yeah, rereading your comment to make sure I didn't miss anything and I had of course. That buzzer test is first thing tomorrow. Sorry about the wall, but if someone had posted this over the years it could've saved me a lot of confusion and trouble not to mention at least a good chunk of hours. I haven't played with advanced test yet, tried to before bed tonight but I didn't get the sequence right from memory and I'll try it tomorrow, maybe get some beeps like a few other guys with similar issues did. The worst part though, if you look up repaired MPEM modules most of the guys have a cut off year that's 1997. Sweet! But no. It has to be a 1996 model 97, the 1998 model 97 has that combined unit that can't be converted to a standardized one because of the 27-pin connectors up front without a complete rewire.
 
UPDATE #2- After the VTS short was found, the case won't open, so unplugging the 2-pin connector was done to stop further shorts at the MPEM block. The female end tested 13.3v. Later we noticed the gauges were not coming on anymore. Tracing things back and digging around revealed a problem with the MPEM 5v fuse. Power was apparently interrupted though the fuse didn't actually blow. Every connection in this, inside the boxes, etc, looks perfect at first glance, and further inspection reveals everything like factory fresh with a coat of dielectric. This fuse when pulled though revealed a building of oxidation and corrosion while the fuse crumbled into pieces. A new fuse brought the gauges back, basically back to the beginning here now.

Great lesson here, no matter how it looks in your ski, make sure to check and recheck connections, if needed, clean them and use dielectric grease when reconnecting! I can't begin to tell you how many times in my career I've found the cause of some major electrical failure to be as simple as battery terminals corroded (tightly wedge a penny under them, change when needed), something loose causing heat and resistance which changes the voltage/amperages critical especially on sensitive systems like monitoring equipment or say really finicky watercraft?, even dead critters! Yes, a dead and cooked marsupial can cause problems that can appear damn near any way you can imagine, and that added resistance making heat isn't the only part that starts fires once you start cooking 'roos... There's a post on this site by a guy trying to repair his VTS, which shorted out again testing. The (-) battery terminal was loose, causing smoke and melting on the MPEM fuse block AND melting bits in the electrical box and cracking the solenoid through. I know better and after checking relevant bits all over the craft troubleshooting, got relaxed. It only takes the smallest bits and pieces to stop things dead or even destroy things, especially when it's something kinda picky. If you read this far into what's basically a log of findings I need to check myself, I appreciate your help and this is snow balling rather well, or I hope this helps as it's everything I searched and read across the forum plus the stuff I wish I could read but had to learn the hard way. Now that you've read a novel, DOUBLE CHECK IT BEFORE IT'S YOUR TURN WITH WRECKED SH**
 
Lurking around the web I just encountered a forum that I really haven't been impressed with, yet again the thread I found was basically a list of conclusions of things that not only aren't the issue, but the most basic understanding of any 1 thing, seadoos, physics, how electricity works, basic mechanics, will tell you they can't possibly be the issue. (Reason why I lurk here btw) One comment though, "if you can jump your starter and crank it over you should be able to hold the start button while doing it and fire up because the computer is looking for that signal to make spark. That would mean a bad solenoid.".... Instead of thinking about it too hard because of all the reasons it shouldn't work, I decided to give it a shot. Cranked over a good 30 sec and for some reason I just kept going and I fricken fired! It needed choke/throttle so it stalled, but it fired! Gonna test the control wire to the solenoid in a few. I'm just gonna call this damned lucky and hope it's not just an odd bypass of a myriad of other possible issues..
 
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