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1996 Seadoo Gtx Won't turn over, clicks

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You only need to block off during longer storage. For now just crank until it cleans out and you should be fine.
 
Just an update.

Haven't had much time to work on this but tried again to start. Same issue. Only cranks with plugs out. Had more oil in the front cylinder so I have a decent seal leak. Will need to put a valve on the oil line.

I did however get the engine to crank just for a second with the plugs in. This was the first time I tried to start it in a week. After that, I couldn't get it to crank with the plugs in. Why would the engine crank for a second then no longer crank ever time I tried after the first time. Does this suggest a battery issue, where I don't have enough juice to crack the engine?

I also have a visibly corroded. Rear ebox ground wire where it attaches to the battery neg. would this ground cause an issue? I'll be checking all grounds this weekend.

I put a voltmeter on the battery when attempting to crank with plugs in. When I hold the start button, the volts drop from near 12 to about 7.5. This is when the starter isn't turning but trying to turn.

A battery that starts my 97 Gti 717 no problem isn't able to crank my 787 either.

Thanks for all the help!
 
2strokenewbie,
I am still having the same issue where my 96 GTX turns over once with plugs in then nothing. I have tons of oil still in the cylinders. I tried what others above suggested which is turn it over with a towel over the plug holes to get the oil out. I pinched the oil feed and shut the gas off and just kept cranking. ALOT of oil came out but still coming out after cranking it a dozen times for 20 seconds or so each time. I dont want to burn my starter out but I seem to still be getting oil. Anyone have an idea of how long this will take. Honestly i had a full tank of oil before the winter and now its almost empty so sonce there is no oil in the hull I assume its all leaked into the engine.
 
Working on it now. My ground wire from the battery connects to the engine block directly above the PTO flywheel. It's been like this since I bought it. I am now realizing that there is no ground connected to the starter. Is this an issue? It's a ground so I don't see why it needs to be connected to the starter.
 
Working on it now. My ground wire from the battery connects to the engine block directly above the PTO flywheel. It's been like this since I bought it. I am now realizing that there is no ground connected to the starter. Is this an issue? It's a ground so I don't see why it needs to be connected to the starter.
My gsx bolts to to the engine where it meets the starter, so booty goes through starter then block then ground to battery with nut on the end and I've found that ground to be quite temperamental
 
Thanks for the info. Switched the ground to contact the starter and I get the same result. Look like ground just have broke off years ago and old owner didn't want to get dirty and fix ground.

When I crank with plugs out I get about 8.5v at the battery hot and about 8.3 at the starter with plugs out. Not sure what this means. I've cleaned and greased major connections. Immediately after doing this The engine cranked with plugs in for a few revolutions then no crank since. Cranks with plugs out no prob.

Thinking I should try to jump the starter to test if the starter works. Any advice?
 
New battery time that's your problem, less than 12v is no good

Personally I'd renew the cables and bang a new battery in
 
Tried a new battery last week with no luck. Assuming the battery was okay. Would be surprised if it's a combination of battery and cables
 
Tried a new battery last week with no luck. Assuming the battery was okay. Would be surprised if it's a combination of battery and cables

I wouldn't, I had a corroded ground cable, grotty power cable terminal and a battery on its way out, couldn't even turn the motor would just lurch it ever so slightly

bad cables alone could cause no start, try shorting the solenoid terminals to see if it will turnover but hot terminals is a sign of a bad connection/cable somewhere on the main power circuit and 8.3v wont do anything either

You need 12.8v battery without load and I'd want to see 11.8v+ when cranking

if you've had a new battery on and the terminals are getting hot and you're only seeing 8.3v that screams bad connection/cables
 
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What's the best way to short the solenoid?

The small ground coming from the rear ebox is definitely corroded. I guess that would mean I would need a new wire harness? Maybe this is a problem?
 
might be better to take some close of pics of the ebox the terminals and cable ends, sometimes you can just trim them back an inch or so

as for shorting the solenoid just bridge the 2 terminals

to try and pinpoint the offending cable/connection check the battery's voltage then check voltage at the solenoid then at the starter soon as you get a dramatic dip I.E 12v > 8v you know the problem lies between that 12v reading and the 8v reading

have you tested the starter? that could be toast?
 
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Would shorting the solenoid tell me if its a solenoid problem? My engine will turn with the spark plugs Out, but won't turn with plugs In. I'm having a hard time understanding why shorting the solenoid with the plugs in would change anything
 
I've not gone back and reread the posts. Have you had the battery load tested?
 
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Thanks for all who helped!!! Finally got it started!

Here's what I think my problem was and what i did. Had a bad oil leak trough the crank seals over winter storage. The ski would crank with plugs out but not with plugs in after removing A LOT of oil from cylinders. Put a on/off valve on the main oil line for a temp fix. Thought I got out as much oil as I could and then looked for electrical issues but I still couldn't get it to crank with plugs in. After cleaning all connections in rear ebox and hot and grounds, I had a noticeably stronger starter. I then turned the ski on a 45degree angle with some help and was able to get more oil out by cranking with plugs out while holding throttle. Drained the battery about 5 times before I got enough oil out. I found a "sweet spot" where if I turned the shaft until the grease nipple pointed directly up, the engine wouldnt "hydro" lock with plugs the plugs in. I was able to use this to my advantage to get it cranking and eventually started.
 
2strokewannabe, this is refreshing since i have the same problem. When you say 45 degree angle do you mean you tilted until the cylinders are facing straight up? Also once it started turning over did you prime the cylinders at all with anything like premix to get it to fire? Just thinking ahead. I just got a new battery and think I have most of the oil out but it still wont turn when plugs are in consistently. I did get it to turn one time so Im thinking the rotation of the engine has something to do with it. I will try your nipple straight up trick. Thanks
 
I tilted the ski the other way so the cylinders were closer to horizontal and not straight up. I like to think this helped. Didn't use anything to prime to start. Had to take plugs out every time the motor locked in order to turn the shaft and put in the position that let it crank. Had some trouble with the spark plugs fouling but was eventually able to get it started holding the choke.

Lots of cranking with plugs out to get out the oil. Make sure battery is fresh when you try to start it with plugs in.
 
For the nipple trick, when you turn the shaft with the plugs out, listen for a suction sound. You can hear and feel at what point in the cycle the cylinders will lock up. You want to start the ski with the piston directly past this point so the starter doesn't immediately start against this lock point.
 
2strokenewbie, coastiejoe and everyone else who helped just want you to know I got the ski started! Turned the crank manually like you said until I got it to rotate enough to start. Alot of smoke but got it running. Took it to the lake and ran a whole tank of gas through it and it ran well. Thanks everyone i love this forum as it helps me alot. I have an old jetski so there is always something so I goto this site frequently.
 
Now that you are running, order a shut off valve for the oil line and turn the oil off over long storage times. I would hand the lanyard on the valve ANYTIME you turn the valve off as a reminder to turn the valve back on....

Also, there is a solenoid based valve that opens and closes bases on when the lanyard is on the DESS...
 
Coastiejoe thats exactly what I am going to do. I went to get one this weekend but they didnt have a straight valve so i will have to order somewhere online. Any suggestions on the type and or place to buy? I guess i just have to make sure I have the right diameter.
 
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