1996 Challenger Lost Spark... Where to start?

[hotrodssnova]

I just went through this with my 94 speedster.

All my wiring was reading shorted to ground.
I found this in the mag housing.

I found a loose starter bolt. I concluded that that bolt left a small leak and water had filled the mag housing. From what I can see, the boat sat for about a year. Still working on it now.

 

[Waterluvr]

The exterior of the cover does have alot of corrosion on it but the pitting is actually on the side of the cover with the rotary valve. I will take a picture this evening.

If it's chalky or you can get any separation out of that pitting I'd trash it, those are $20.00 cheap all day long for a good used one and you don't want to suck up flakes of corroded alloy that let go from that.

 

[Bmedlin85]

If it's chalky or you can get any separation out of that pitting I'd trash it, those are $20.00 cheap all day long for a good used one and you don't want to suck up flakes of corroded alloy that let go from that.

 

[Waterluvr]

View attachment 27127
View attachment 27128

Perfect example of why it pays to fog these motors when your done for the day if it's going to sit for a little while.

 

[Bmedlin85]

Ok, I've got a new stator and rotary valve cover on the way. Just a few more things to get before its alive once again.

So I have a question about water filtration systems on these boats. When I purchased the boat the previous owner had installed 2 Omnifilters. He used all different kinds of fittings and junk, and I am surprised water even flowed through it. After researching the filters it appears they are used to filter water for drinking which I am assuming would restrict a good amount of flow through the engine. All I want is a filter I can mount inline to catch some of the sand in the lake where the boat is used. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[Waterluvr]

Consider totally eliminating those filters, there's a reason the factory doesn't use them in the first place there's not enough volume from the jet pump on the supply line to overcome any restriction in a filter at low speed operation.

Use the backflush fitting on the transom occasionally and you'll be good to go.

 

[Bmedlin85]

Ok, have another question... I am getting ready to reinstall my motor and was looking at the drive shaft. Does this look right?. When I look at the parts fiche I do not see this retaining ring. It also looks like it's only half of one. Thanks for the help.

 

[Waterluvr]

That's the metal C-clip that replaces the o-ring on the shaft groove and retains the stainless carrier to keep pressure on the bellows/carbon seal, your good to go with that. Your boat originally used the o-ring instead of the clip that came along later on.

If your drive shaft has two grooves about an inch apart you can adjust the tension on the bellows and carbon seal depending on which groove you use, there is a compression tolerance measurement for the boot in the manual to see which one is in spec.

 

[Bmedlin85]

So could the position of this C-clip case pump cavitation? The boat will rev to about 7,000 rpm's (according to the tach) out of the hole and takes at least 10+ seconds to plain out, and that is with only with the driver aboard on calm water.

 

[Waterluvr]

Two usual suspects, the carbon seal/bellows allowing air to escape from the hull and the neoprene seal ring on the pump. Did you use a new seal ring on the pump? If not that's got be done, does your drive shaft have two grooves in the shaft about an inch apart to use for the c-clip?

Most Challengers use the second groove closest to the transom to tension the bellows so long as the compressed bellows is in spec according to the manual. (2 21/64" ~ 2 41/64") If you're using the groove closest to the pto chances are that's your issue.

 

[Bmedlin85]

I personally have not rebuilt the pump so I am not sure of the condition of the neoprene seal. As much as I hate to say it, I hope the previous owner didn't fool with it either... mainly because of the headache he has already caused me haha.

I will check this evening how many grooves it has. Fingers crossed that the issue can be resolved that easily.

 

[Waterluvr]

You didn't remove the pump to replace the engine and align it? :facepalm: Time to read your manual...

 

[Waterluvr]

Look what's on Ebay, don't see these often (ever actually) for sale anymore but I snagged one of them to have a spare that's got both the 4 and 6 pin plugs for checking pretty much all the 2 stroke boats and ski's.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bombardier-...NOS-/131283991457?hash=item1e9122bba1&vxp=mtr

 

[Bmedlin85]

Started troubleshooting cavitation issue...

Here is what I have found so far just by removing the pump...

1. The wear ring stuck to the ride shoe when I pulled the pump off. It was practically glued to it with silicon.
2. The space between the pump housing and hull was filled with black silicon.
3. The neoprene gasket was missing completely. Again, only black silicon between the pump and ride shoe.
4. The P/N on the impeller is 271000497 11/22 pitch. From what I can tell it looks like this impeller is used for the 717 engines, not the 787. Service manual shows 271000620 11/25 pitch should be used. How much of a difference could this make?

I am assuming these issues would contribute to cavitation. I will upload photos as soon as my computer lets me.