1995 seadoo Gtx bogs terriblely

[JDolson 22]

I had this issue a couple months ago, I went through everything I possibly could.
Here's the list:
-removed and cleaned carbs and inner carb filters (carbs weren't dirty or worn)
-replaced the rectifier
-changed the gray fuel tubing going to the carb to green with inline filters
-bypassed the fuel selector (runs directly) from tank
-took the gas pick up out and cleaned it
After all that it turned out to be a broken ignition wire, I fixed that and it ran perefectly! One of the cooling hoses came off the lower exhaust pipe and melted my oil line, so I had fixed that and I was afraid my fix wouldn't hold up and added 2 stroke oil to the gas just incase it failed, it would still get oil. It ran ok after that for a couple of runs on different days,probably about an hour or 2 total and then it started bogging terriblely. Pulling the choke halfway doesn't help while it's running, but if I crank it over for a few seconds with the choke on and then start it it will launch with full power for 2 seconds and go back to bogging. I have replaced the plugs and have drained the gas out of the tank completely and replaced with fresh non mixed gas, and it shows no improvement at all. At this point I'm out of ideas and could use some guidance before I ditch the ski... Thanks I. Advanced!

 

[Mickirig1]

Get a pop off tester and check the entire fuel system for air leaks. It's easier to suck air the fuel. Look at the fuel filter in front hood / hatch area. The gasket goes bad and leaks air randomly. It gets wet with fuel, it functions. Then it dries out and acts up. Get a pop off tester and check the whole fuel system. It's easier to suck air then fuel. Like I said before.

 

[JDolson 22]

It is that the plastic twist off thingy with the mesh screen in it, correct? It seems like it would have an o ring, regardless I haven't checked it but I will when I get home today. It's a real
Bummer not having the ski working right in the middle of summer!

 

[wfo speedracer]

It has an o-ring located in the bowl, it's a special square edged o-ring available only from Seadoo , if the o-ring is bad or missing it will suck air and not get the correct amount of fuel which causes a lean bog condition.

 

[JDolson 22]

The o ring in the water separator/ fuel filter looks like new. The ski runs perfect on the trailer, I don't see any gas leaking in the hull so it can't be a leaky line... My next attempt is to put a different coil in and see if that helps, I'll also go over my ignition wires to see if there's any breaks again... Is there any other electronics that could cause this problem?

 

[JDolson 22]

It has an o-ring located in the bowl, it's a special square edged o-ring available only from Seadoo , if the o-ring is bad or missing it will suck air and not get the correct amount of fuel which causes a lean bog condition.

Are you talking about in the carb? Would a lean big get better when the choke is applied?

 

[wfo speedracer]

Yes pulling the choke should let it rev up and go

 

[JDolson 22]

Yes pulling the choke should let it rev up and go

Engaging the choke while applying full throttle doesn't help, it only bogs the engine down, even if choke is halfway.

 

[96spxpos]

But you said if you hold the choke for a few when first starting it will make it launch?
You need to rebuild the carbs... not just clean the filters... theres a diaphragm in there that gets worn, theres a rubber tipped needle in there that gets worn and rounded off, etc. I had the SAME exactly problem, chased it for months. Finally rebuilt the carbs the RIGHT way, issue resolved.

These fuel systems are very specific. If one or more of these issues are occurring, it wont ride right.

That full power you feel right before it bogs... I guarantee if you get good at it (which you shouldn't have to, just fix it right) right before it bogs again, if you manipulate that choke, like when its about to bog, let the choke retract slightly, then pull, let go, etc... that you'll be able to go all the way thru the throttle range.. which is a carb/fuel problem...
Nothing electrical.. unless you're getting surging.

 

[JDolson 22]

if the choke is engaged in any position while it's running at any throttle position, it will bog down if not shut off. If I crank the engine over with out starting it and I have the choke fully
On, when I go to start it up with no choke, and give it throttle, it will rev up and take off like normal but only for a few seconds before returning to bogging. When I disassembled the carbs, nothing looked questionable except a slight amount of blue goop in one carb, that I cleaned out. I also cleaned out the small filters in the carb to the point where light was able to be seen through it. After that I replaced the fuel lines going to the carb with green tubing and I put a fuel filter going to each carb. The problem didn't slowly build up, all of a sudden one day after I launched it didn't rev up. As I said, it doesn't bog on the trailer, but when I rev it up, my dad said it sounds like it had a misfire.

 

[JDolson 22]

Also when I had the carbs apart, I took it all apart and I cleaned them out. Jets, diaphragm, filters, and the pump.

 

[wfo speedracer]

did you clean or replace the petcock, were the fuel lines replaced, if not you did half the job and guess what ? That's right you get to do it again !

 

[JDolson 22]

did you clean or replace the petcock, were the fuel lines replaced, if not you did half the job and guess what ? That's right you get to do it again !

The petcock was bypassed, the fuel line runs directly from the tank for the time being. Any gray tubing that has gas run through it was replaced with green tubing.

 

[JDolson 22]

I changed the coil, the wires, and the plugs. It ran good for about 5 seconds and went back to bogging again. Once again engaging the choke while its running does not do anything helpful. I also did try to mix the choke with the throttle and that doesn't help.

 

[Bills86e]

1. carb diaphragm may have pinholes, carb has not enough suction
2. fuel line clamps on fuel suction/delivery are letting air in, carb has not enough fuel to attain rpm
3. RV cover is worn, cause is water intrusion, result is: steals manifold pressure from adjacent cylinder
4. very low compression


Bills86e

 

[JDolson 22]

Thank you for giving me more options to check! If it has low compression, would it not rev up at all if the impeller is in the water?

 

[mikidymac]

Low compression will cause hard starting in the water and low power.

 

[JDolson 22]

My Gtx starts right up in the water, I'll check the compression anyway, I'm really hoping I can rule out the low compression idea. If I take off the rotary valve cover, are there any parts that fall out or off? I know I have to use something to mark the timing, I just want to make sure I don't screw this up. Thank you for all your replies!

 

[Bills86e]

1st........obtain a degree wheel, your specific shop manual, read the how-to section, and the non-acid solder and micrometer.

Given your symptoms though, its more likely air in fuel line to carb(s).

 

[RodInEscondido]

You mentioned green tubing; is this certified fuel line designed for the new blends of gasoline? I acquired some "fuel line" some time back that was being sold for use in experimental aircraft that turned out to be something that got hard as a rock within weeks. I am a fan of clear or tinted fuel line so I can see if air leaks exist, but test it regularly for flexibility.

 

[JDolson 22]

Last time I checked it was still flexible, the new tubing has only
Been installed for about a month and a half... I will double check it. Thanks!

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

The problem really does sound like the carbs are running out of fuel. Your rotary valve should be fine if it was running okay, then suddenly one day it was not. Did you check your carb jets to make sure none were clogged? Did you see fuel spray through the three transition ports visible inside the carb's throat as you're spraying cleaner through the low speed jet port?

As for the degree wheel, you can make your own. Glue a print-out of it, and cut it out. The most important thing is to cut the center out very precisely so that it just goes over the rotary gear and is no bigger. The center must be precise. The printout wheel should be smaller than your valve, so that you can put it on the rotary valve gear and see the valve protrude past it. It works perfectly for me.

 

[JDolson 22]

I checked the compression on both cylinders and they're both about 80 psi... Definitely not good. Can someone please tell me that there could be another reason for low compression besides worn out Pistons.. Head gasket possibly?

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Dead rings, improper rv timing

 

[dieselndoo]

Rebuild time. Go premix so pistons aren't starved of oil