Hello all! It's been a while since I posted but no problems to report due to winter and not being able to seadoo in Ohio. I have been seadooing for about 10 years with a 1997 new in 1999 gsx that has given me no real trouble. I have been given a 1993 spx for free that has not run in 8 years. The boat is in very good shape in general but has not been run since winterized in like 2002 or so. The owner said it was running a little ruff and he thought it was ready for the scrap heap. He said he didn't think they had put more than 30 hrs. on it but bought it used. He never even changed the plugs or even checked them. I am thinking about becoming a premium member to get the manual for this boat. I will drain the gas tank and clean it as best as I can without removeing it from the boat. The oil looks good so I will try to leave that alone unless anyone sees a problem with that. I am trying to just make it run without rebuilding the whole thing. I don't really have a use for this boat but when it is free it's hard to turn down. Are the bennifits of premium membership worth the cash? Would anyone be upset if I joined for like 3 months and then quit? Anybody got any general infor on this boat like motor size, gas needed, type of oil needed. I will get most if this info from the manual but any info up front will be nice. Thanks Craig:ack:
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1993 SPX General Info
- Thread starter GADABOUT
- Start date
- Status
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Wecome... and no. If you join, and then "Quit" in a few months... you will still be welcome here. Any money that goes in just helps this place stay open.
Anyway... yes... free is good and even though you say "you don't have a use for it"... you may find you like the little ski. It won't be as fast as your GSX, but it weighs about 100 Lbs less, and is much shorter. It will be a fun ski to throw around, and fall off of... and in general... get wet on. (I just did a full restoration on a 90 Si)
Ok... so, I would start with removing the fuel, and as long as you can ID the oil, then you can leave it in the tank. (did he say what he used?) if you don't know what it is... I'd drain it out.
Second... put a battery in it, and check compression. Oh, and expect oil to come spraying out. The rotary valves seals will leak from sitting that long. If you have good compression, I would move on to changing the oil and fuel filters... and cleaning out the carb.
After all that... fire it up. If it runs... pull the tail cone off the pump, and check the oil. If it's clean, refill it. if it's ugly... you may need to rebuild the pump.
After all that... grease the PTO and the drive shaft seal (under the gray cover behind the engine) and take it out for a ride.
Good luck
Anyway... yes... free is good and even though you say "you don't have a use for it"... you may find you like the little ski. It won't be as fast as your GSX, but it weighs about 100 Lbs less, and is much shorter. It will be a fun ski to throw around, and fall off of... and in general... get wet on. (I just did a full restoration on a 90 Si)
Ok... so, I would start with removing the fuel, and as long as you can ID the oil, then you can leave it in the tank. (did he say what he used?) if you don't know what it is... I'd drain it out.
Second... put a battery in it, and check compression. Oh, and expect oil to come spraying out. The rotary valves seals will leak from sitting that long. If you have good compression, I would move on to changing the oil and fuel filters... and cleaning out the carb.
After all that... fire it up. If it runs... pull the tail cone off the pump, and check the oil. If it's clean, refill it. if it's ugly... you may need to rebuild the pump.
After all that... grease the PTO and the drive shaft seal (under the gray cover behind the engine) and take it out for a ride.
Good luck
Joined up already
Yeah, Opps...well joined up already to download the manual. I have printed it out all 305 pages of it. Good thing I am at work. LOL Anyway thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention the previous owrner said the pump had just been rebuilt. I think he meant 8 or 9 years ago. Your information was what I was looking for as I just don't want to go to far with this untill I know I have somthing that is worth screwing with. I could tell from moving it from his trailer to my trailer it was much lighter than my boat. I bought a pump that I will use to remove the old gas from the tank. I thought I would use a little fresh gas and some carb cleaner to clean the tank as best I can. If the carbs are gummed up I will have to remove and clean allthough I am hoping I don't have to. I'll keep you posted. Craig
A small update: I took off the fuel filter tonight and it was wet with gas and oil! I think this is good news as it may mean the carbs are not gummed. The tank on the other hand was dry. I may just use a carb cleaner with new gas and see if I can start it. I am bogged down right now with trailer tire problems that I need to address first.
Yeah, Opps...well joined up already to download the manual. I have printed it out all 305 pages of it. Good thing I am at work. LOL Anyway thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention the previous owrner said the pump had just been rebuilt. I think he meant 8 or 9 years ago. Your information was what I was looking for as I just don't want to go to far with this untill I know I have somthing that is worth screwing with. I could tell from moving it from his trailer to my trailer it was much lighter than my boat. I bought a pump that I will use to remove the old gas from the tank. I thought I would use a little fresh gas and some carb cleaner to clean the tank as best I can. If the carbs are gummed up I will have to remove and clean allthough I am hoping I don't have to. I'll keep you posted. Craig
A small update: I took off the fuel filter tonight and it was wet with gas and oil! I think this is good news as it may mean the carbs are not gummed. The tank on the other hand was dry. I may just use a carb cleaner with new gas and see if I can start it. I am bogged down right now with trailer tire problems that I need to address first.
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Another thought update
Well I just thought of something else that is not great news but it shows I am thinking anyway. There isn't supposed to be any oil in the fuel filter so what I thought was gas and oil is really gas turning into something else.LOL At leased it is still liquid anyway. I am really not sure where the oil is injected but I think in the carb possibly? Guess I got more reading to do. Craig
Well I just thought of something else that is not great news but it shows I am thinking anyway. There isn't supposed to be any oil in the fuel filter so what I thought was gas and oil is really gas turning into something else.LOL At leased it is still liquid anyway. I am really not sure where the oil is injected but I think in the carb possibly? Guess I got more reading to do. Craig
n3k0de
Active Member
When I got mine it didnt run for 9 years... I have a 94 spx...
Changed out the grey lines
Rebuilt the carbs + new carb gaskets
Replaced the head o-ring gaskets + piston + jug o-rings
Drained the gas + oil out of each tank and replaced with new
New battery
Inspected and Cleaned up the exahust system "Check tuned pipe for leaks"
Replaced all cooling lines "Dry Rotted" + "easy to tell if cooling when starts"
Replaced the plugs
changed the pump oil + wear ring + painted pump
new impeller boot
fuel filter + oil filter
Cleaned the inside of the hull with soap
RECALL --- not sure yours has it --- check the gas tank neck-----
I did get a new gas tank also because of the Recall... But the dealship busted my sending unit so i had to rebuild that ... they just knocked the magnet out of the float... so it replaced it and did a tie strap welid with a lighter to it..
I just called into a dealership and they took the HIN number and checked with seadoo... at first they told me no.. but I had them call seadoo...
After that my ski was brand new and havent had any problems but one.....
Check the Seal Carrier... That carbon fiber head is DRY rotted and weak after 15 years... every year after that you are pushing your luck..
Best thing to do if not done all ready is to buy the fix kit and do it why you have the pump off....
Glue it on and grease that bearing on both sides..... and its good to go!
All in All to make mine brand new cost me about 1,000$$$.. but it was a hobby for me to fix it up...
Another thing the owner took care of the insides.. he always fogged it with marine CRC and soaked the pistons... and sprayed everything down with marine crc...
Changed out the grey lines
Rebuilt the carbs + new carb gaskets
Replaced the head o-ring gaskets + piston + jug o-rings
Drained the gas + oil out of each tank and replaced with new
New battery
Inspected and Cleaned up the exahust system "Check tuned pipe for leaks"
Replaced all cooling lines "Dry Rotted" + "easy to tell if cooling when starts"
Replaced the plugs
changed the pump oil + wear ring + painted pump
new impeller boot
fuel filter + oil filter
Cleaned the inside of the hull with soap
RECALL --- not sure yours has it --- check the gas tank neck-----
I did get a new gas tank also because of the Recall... But the dealship busted my sending unit so i had to rebuild that ... they just knocked the magnet out of the float... so it replaced it and did a tie strap welid with a lighter to it..
I just called into a dealership and they took the HIN number and checked with seadoo... at first they told me no.. but I had them call seadoo...
After that my ski was brand new and havent had any problems but one.....
Check the Seal Carrier... That carbon fiber head is DRY rotted and weak after 15 years... every year after that you are pushing your luck..
Best thing to do if not done all ready is to buy the fix kit and do it why you have the pump off....
Glue it on and grease that bearing on both sides..... and its good to go!
All in All to make mine brand new cost me about 1,000$$$.. but it was a hobby for me to fix it up...
Another thing the owner took care of the insides.. he always fogged it with marine CRC and soaked the pistons... and sprayed everything down with marine crc...
Basic Idea
I just really want to see if it will run before I rebuild anything. If it is seized up or gummed up real bad it may wait untill I have more time to deal with it. My 97 GSX is running great and I had it out last Sunday. Time to boat not time to work on boat unless nessasary. LOL Thanks for the info. I am studying the manual. Craig
This is next day. Put either in plug holes and started engine. It's not running on it's own yet but sounded good for a second or two. The lanyard is kind of screwy and I have to hold down that button and the start button at the same time. I need a new lanyard I guess. I don't have the trailer tires back from the repair shop and the trailer is up on one jack and kind of shaky. Give me a couple of days and I bet I'll have this running on it's own.
I just really want to see if it will run before I rebuild anything. If it is seized up or gummed up real bad it may wait untill I have more time to deal with it. My 97 GSX is running great and I had it out last Sunday. Time to boat not time to work on boat unless nessasary. LOL Thanks for the info. I am studying the manual. Craig
This is next day. Put either in plug holes and started engine. It's not running on it's own yet but sounded good for a second or two. The lanyard is kind of screwy and I have to hold down that button and the start button at the same time. I need a new lanyard I guess. I don't have the trailer tires back from the repair shop and the trailer is up on one jack and kind of shaky. Give me a couple of days and I bet I'll have this running on it's own.
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Need more info
The fuel system is gummed some where I think as I can run it with ether but not on it's own yet. Is there a fuel pump somewhere? I can't find it in the manual if there is one. How does the fuel system work in general? I want to flush from the tank to the carbs. I can follow the lines in the manual ok but don't see the fuel pump anywhere. The main fuel filter seems ok at leased to test thinks out further. I will work further this weekend if I can get the boat in my garage. It's supposed to rain all weekend so it would be a good weekend for boat work.
The fuel system is gummed some where I think as I can run it with ether but not on it's own yet. Is there a fuel pump somewhere? I can't find it in the manual if there is one. How does the fuel system work in general? I want to flush from the tank to the carbs. I can follow the lines in the manual ok but don't see the fuel pump anywhere. The main fuel filter seems ok at leased to test thinks out further. I will work further this weekend if I can get the boat in my garage. It's supposed to rain all weekend so it would be a good weekend for boat work.
Go to the top left Seadoowarehouse, click that, select year, select model, select
the system such as fuel ect, you can blow up top left window, x that out, put a number in the box at left like "2" , scroll down to bottom and click "add to cart",
that gives you the part number if you want that info, then just click "clear cart"
that means you did not buy, but you have the particular part number.
heres to get started, just click on right, select parts by year:
http://www.seadoowarehouse.com/?122506674
Hope this helps, Bill
the system such as fuel ect, you can blow up top left window, x that out, put a number in the box at left like "2" , scroll down to bottom and click "add to cart",
that gives you the part number if you want that info, then just click "clear cart"
that means you did not buy, but you have the particular part number.
heres to get started, just click on right, select parts by year:
http://www.seadoowarehouse.com/?122506674
Hope this helps, Bill
Went there
Ok, I went there and it's the same as the manual. I just need someone to tell me how the fuel is delivered to the carbs. It's maybe that the carbs pull the fuel somehow. I see nothing in the drawings that looks like a fuel pump of any sort. I have looked for a mechanical pump on the engine but I don't see it. Ok pros help me out. Thanks Criag
Ok, I went there and it's the same as the manual. I just need someone to tell me how the fuel is delivered to the carbs. It's maybe that the carbs pull the fuel somehow. I see nothing in the drawings that looks like a fuel pump of any sort. I have looked for a mechanical pump on the engine but I don't see it. Ok pros help me out. Thanks Criag
Its a simple diaphram and a block with in & out one way check valves. The diaphram moves back and forth gas moves the gas in a draw & push action called a pulse.
The pulse is vacumn, then pressure under the piston in an area called the lower case. A hole drilled thru the case has a nipple inserted on the outside, so a tube
can be attached that goes up to the mag carb nipple of the diaphram & block assembly part, known as the "fuel pump". Its suction draws fuel from the gas tank,
and its push pressure moves the fuel thru both the carburetors, out the return nipple, back to the gas tank "dump in" nipple on the fuel bafel. Bills86e
The pulse is vacumn, then pressure under the piston in an area called the lower case. A hole drilled thru the case has a nipple inserted on the outside, so a tube
can be attached that goes up to the mag carb nipple of the diaphram & block assembly part, known as the "fuel pump". Its suction draws fuel from the gas tank,
and its push pressure moves the fuel thru both the carburetors, out the return nipple, back to the gas tank "dump in" nipple on the fuel bafel. Bills86e
Thanks Bill
Is it on the carb or somewhere else? I looked at the carb and there is something that looks like what you are talking about but I am not sure. Or is it mechanical? Ah runs off the engine? I understand what you are saying just not sure where this pump or whatever is. Thanks for anymore info.:ack:Craig
Reread your post and get it now, vacuum line runs to carb to operate fuel pump. Thanks.
Is it on the carb or somewhere else? I looked at the carb and there is something that looks like what you are talking about but I am not sure. Or is it mechanical? Ah runs off the engine? I understand what you are saying just not sure where this pump or whatever is. Thanks for anymore info.:ack:Craig
Reread your post and get it now, vacuum line runs to carb to operate fuel pump. Thanks.
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Success!!!!!!!!!
:hurray: Well. I got it running on it's own. Kind of funny as I was set to blow out fuel lines etc. but thought I would first run it once more on ether as I had put in a new battery. Hard to start but when it finally ran it kept running. I will now change the plugs as one was carboned up. I got some fuel system cleaner that I put in tonight and started it to get the cleaner in the system and the boat started instantly. Cool. I know not to run it to long without water hookup. I am not even sure I can run this boat on a garden hose. There is a water hookup for winterizing I think but am not sure you can use that for running the boat out of water. The manual is unclear on this point.
One other funny thing. I was having trouble with the lanyard getting it to stay on the button. Well, wrong button!!! Yep I was trying to put it on the starter button instead of the run button. Lanyard is no problem on the correct button. It's a mental thing. I am not concerned.
Craig
:hurray: Well. I got it running on it's own. Kind of funny as I was set to blow out fuel lines etc. but thought I would first run it once more on ether as I had put in a new battery. Hard to start but when it finally ran it kept running. I will now change the plugs as one was carboned up. I got some fuel system cleaner that I put in tonight and started it to get the cleaner in the system and the boat started instantly. Cool. I know not to run it to long without water hookup. I am not even sure I can run this boat on a garden hose. There is a water hookup for winterizing I think but am not sure you can use that for running the boat out of water. The manual is unclear on this point.
One other funny thing. I was having trouble with the lanyard getting it to stay on the button. Well, wrong button!!! Yep I was trying to put it on the starter button instead of the run button. Lanyard is no problem on the correct button. It's a mental thing. I am not concerned.
Craig
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear that it's running.
First... from your other post... the 93 uses an old style Super BN38 carb. The fuel pump is in the square side of the carb with the 3 hose fittings on it. As the engine cranks... it will pump the fuel.
Also... on your ski... the drive shaft seal is a greased bearing. As long as it's in good shape, and is greased... you can run it all day on the trailer. (as long as you hook the engine to a hose)
I would not trust "pour in" fuel system cleaner. You need to pull the carb apart to make sure it's clean and ready to go. Most likely you will find the insides of the carb are rusted up.
First... from your other post... the 93 uses an old style Super BN38 carb. The fuel pump is in the square side of the carb with the 3 hose fittings on it. As the engine cranks... it will pump the fuel.
Also... on your ski... the drive shaft seal is a greased bearing. As long as it's in good shape, and is greased... you can run it all day on the trailer. (as long as you hook the engine to a hose)
I would not trust "pour in" fuel system cleaner. You need to pull the carb apart to make sure it's clean and ready to go. Most likely you will find the insides of the carb are rusted up.
Thanks Doc
I read the manual more carfully and found I do have the "T" fitting installed on my doo but will need the garden hose connect thingy. I would rather run this for 3 to 5 minutes to circulate the carb cleaner before I drag it to the lake. I really want to run it on the trailer in the lake for about 15 minutes to see what happens before I am on the lake with a problem. Well with two doos I can take someone on my newer boat to tow me back if nessesary. I'll check with my local dealer for the hose thingy. Thanks for all the input.
Craig
I read the manual more carfully and found I do have the "T" fitting installed on my doo but will need the garden hose connect thingy. I would rather run this for 3 to 5 minutes to circulate the carb cleaner before I drag it to the lake. I really want to run it on the trailer in the lake for about 15 minutes to see what happens before I am on the lake with a problem. Well with two doos I can take someone on my newer boat to tow me back if nessesary. I'll check with my local dealer for the hose thingy. Thanks for all the input.
CraigHose thingy
Well what do you call that thing anyway? I'd call it 22.99 +tax at the dealer and I would be correct. LOL. Anyway got it and ran the boat for two minutes no real problems at all. I think it is reving high but not sure being out of water and it was coming down in rpm the longer I ran it. I know from my boat there is a higher rpm to start till the engine warmes up a little. Next stop the lake or river in my case. I will run it on the trailer for 10 minutes or so to see how it doo(get it). Man, I think it's going to be OK. Couple tanks of gas to clean it internaly and I am good to go. Thanks for all the input. Craig
Well what do you call that thing anyway? I'd call it 22.99 +tax at the dealer and I would be correct. LOL. Anyway got it and ran the boat for two minutes no real problems at all. I think it is reving high but not sure being out of water and it was coming down in rpm the longer I ran it. I know from my boat there is a higher rpm to start till the engine warmes up a little. Next stop the lake or river in my case. I will run it on the trailer for 10 minutes or so to see how it doo(get it). Man, I think it's going to be OK. Couple tanks of gas to clean it internaly and I am good to go. Thanks for all the input. Craig
Thank you for posting the begining Sequel to the fuel system nightmare story about
to jump to 2nd sequel, the "how could this have Happened to my baby" story. :stupid:
You can avoid it happening:
To REPLACE FUEL LINES
Tempo fuel line was used on all skis from 1994 thru 2002. Seadoo 587's-717's = 25'of 1/4"fuel line. Replace the aluminum Selector Valve with a plastic valve to eliminate more Aluminum Oxide from the circulatory delivery system.
First, remove the negative battery cable from battery then siphon and empty any gas from tank.
On 587's, 657's, & 717 skis, cut the new 1/4"I.S.dia. gas line one piece 12" long, two pieces 24" long, two pieces 60" long.
Remove the fuel selector switch by pulling the center plug of the fuel dial with a needle, and remove the phillips #2 screw,
and wiggle & pull until the knob pulls off. Then unscrew the 22mm plastic nut, washer, and push it thru the hull, into interior
compartment. Next, under steering and in front compartment, useing a 10mm ratchet wrench, remove the nut on top of the separator
filter's bracket to free it. Cut all the old fuel lines about 2" away from each part, and set aside. On top of the fuel tank is
a four line bafel top. Look for the vent line and pull that up and off, it probly will come easily. Make a mental note of the
zip ties to the lines as you will tie everything secure from bouncing around when you are done. Next, cut the three remaing lines
2" above the bafel, and pull them up and off as well. Next, undo the two rubber strapes holding the gas tank down in its position,
then unclip the fuel bafel two wire electrical connector. Unhook starboard oil tank strap. At this point you could attempt removal of the bafel from tank,
Inspect the fuel separator/filter O-ring and gas tank vent one-way check valve. Remove the gas tank fuel bafel and clean the bottom screen,
this is the most overlooked filter in the fuel delivery system. When clogged can overwork the drawing power of the carburetor fuel pump. Any Goo from deteriorated lines is immediatly recirculated into the outgoing fuel supply line. Any tubulented goo drops to bottom of the bafel when ski sits.
or wait and grab the emty gas tank from frontside and remove from the ski thru the compartment hatch, and you mat be able to manuver
it out along with the tank as a unit. Remove the fafel by loosening the lower gear clamp and pulling the bafel up. A circuit board and
a float with a magnet on it is inside the bafel and sends a signal to the MPEM and gauge as to the fuel level. The bottom of the bafel
has a clip/screen, you should remove and clean, and look at the short and full lenth fuel straw in there. The one that is at bottom
where the clip/screen is, is the RESERVE. The one thats about 1 1/2" short is the ON straw. Mark the On & Reserve spigot tube at the
top of the bafel on each tube. Even draw a circle front of the tank bafel with a majick marker of the two wires and four tubes. Mark the O & R on
your drawing, the two other tubes, one is a vent line connection, the other is the fuel returm line from carb & returns unused fuel to tank tube.
Remove the Carburator Air Box to gain access and remove the supply and return fuel lines from the carbs, and discard them. Next, clean
out the fuel tank (use a rag swab on a slim rod) Clean the fuel bafel, disassemble the fuel separator bowl and filter and square O-ring
and clean with soapy water. Clean (if yours has a disassembly screw) or replace the fuel selector switch. Next, useing a helper to lift on
the Oil Tank, slide the clean tank with bafel installed into position and secure the two straps on the gas tank and starboard side strap of oil tank.
Next, look at the fuel selector switch and push the two 2 ft new hoses on the ON and RESERVE nipple and the 1' hose on the unmarked or "fuel out"
nipple and secure with Oetiker clamps, 7 1/2" quality zip tie (TY-RAP) on #4 screw clamps, the three installed hoses. Majic mark the open ends
of the ON hose with an "O" and "R" on the reserve. Push the open end of the short 1' hose onto the assembled separator filter "in" nipple and
secure. Install the 5' hose previously cut on the arrowed "out" on the separator/filter as the supply line to carburetor. Next, remount this unit
first back onto the hull bracket, lines faceing front, and then selector to hull, and secure both. Look at your drawing on tank and bafel and
attach the O to O, and R to R. Next apply air pressure to the old vent line,and if it escapes out the starboard vent hole that is just below the
outside bumper, the check valve and line are OK and re-useable. Apply same to vent at the front compartment latch to check that line and valve.
If it vents the pressure out the S/b same hole, it is OK also. Connect vent line to either bafel nipple and secure. Route the supply fuel line
so it goes in front of the gas filler hose, then back thru the Black multi-holder, then to front carb. Cut a 5' fuel line and attach and secure
to the fourth bafel nipple, and route it next to the supply line previously ran, and route it to the rear of carburetor. Reconnect the electric
bafel wires. Next, useing ZIP-TIES, secure just barely snug, all lines and wires, insureing clearance of front compartment basket. Next you are
ready to put gas in the tank and purge the fuel delivery lines of air useing air pressure applyed into the rear carb return hose, and with fuel
cap on and fuel selector at ON position and then in the RESERVE position, insureing the fuel routes thru the supply line. Gental pressure applied
several times will net the desired gas flowing results.For the carbs to work, you have got to have the flame arrestor on. This is what creates resistance, along with the manifold pressure created by the compression of the engine, to get the gas to the motor. So, if you don't have the flame arrestor on, you'll never get fuel to the motor.
A plastic fuel selector valve is preferred over an aluminum because the aluminum can Oxidize from moisture and results in common corrosion, mineral coagulation and electolitic accumilation, & saltwater mineral electrolosis.
Use of White Litheum Grease brushed liberaly on the Aluminum Carburetor(s) stops permiation of moisture thru the metal. It lubricates the linkages & cables thereto attached. Use of Stabile or Seafoam as and additive in the gas, along with a small amount of Injection Oil will help unavoidable contaminats from damageing the fuel delivery system, such as rust from fuel suppliers
the fuel float magnet oxidation, carburetor internal steel part oxidation, and chemically reduces the size of the moisture molecule, which helps fuel flow delivery system componets.
Use your Pop off tester to check the IN & OUT directional air check valves in the breath line attached to Bafel top nipple, up to the hatch "in" vent and rub rail "expell" vent . They should open and allow air flow at 3-5 lbs psi. if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it and goes into lower case,
causeing over-rich condition resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
HOW TO ROUTE/PURGE FUEL SYSTEM LINES
Listening closly, Open gas cap in case any pressure is in there, then re-tighten. Remove the gas supply line from carb
and put the hose end into a catch bottle. Remove the fuel return gas line from carb nipple and blow a small amount of air chuck pressure into return line. Watch routeing fuel flow easily from
supply in a bottle, IF it routes good, the carb is faulty from a clog or pump diaphram has a hole.
Check pulse tube for clog, it operates the fuel pump with a push-pull or suck-blow as pistons
go up-down in engine case, that is how the mag carb pump actuates route pressure thru the carb, and back into gas tank . A WD-40 straw works good for that. Attach a 2'short fuel line to the tube and if you can blow into the crank-case, its clear of debris.
On dual carb systems, when the mag carb (it gets fuel first) clogs and the PTO carb starves as a result, and that cylinder runs lean, then seizes first. Running lean can cause Glow-plugging and the engine will Rev run-away. Pulling off the lanyard will not help. Asphyxiating by pulling choke and opening throttle may stop engine run-away. Pulling spark wires may injure you and not kill engine as its getting fire from burning piston carbon or red hot spark plug.
Any SeaDoo or other jetski with OEM grey tempo fuel lines will need the entire fuel system rebuilt due to known problems with internal fuel-line deterioration & resin goo clogging up the small internal carborator filters, fuel selector valve and most other fuel system components. Symptoms also include engine bogging at higher speeds (3500 rpm). Continued riding will cause carbonizing & a burned aluminum pistons and engine failure due to lean fuel/air mixtures and high combustion temps. The only solution is to replace ALL the fuel lines with standard automotive NAPA lines, clear race Fuel lines like: http://fuellines.biz, or equivalent, rebuild the carborators with rebuild kits,new needle & seats, and replacing the fuel selector valve. It is suggested to install a clear glass marine grade inline fuel filter just before the carborators to catch any remaining debris, and do a pre-ride dump of the separator fuel bowl.
Inspect the fuel separator,filter,square O-ring and gas tank vent TWO one-way check valves, that open at 3-5 lbs psi. One breaths air in from near front compartment latch, One expells under the rub rail, if this one clogs or fails overpressure in tank can open the needle valve(s) and leak fuel into a shut off engine. A hard to start occurs and can wear out a starter prematurly. The fuel bafel's bottom removable cap filter/screen if not cleaned recirculates hardened injection oil mineral sludge Goo/debris into the carbs, over & over until the carb filters fail, then bogging occures.
When the Aluminum carburetor & Aluminum Selector valve goes ungreased, moisture permiates Aluminum Oxide thru the walls into the fuel circulatory of carbs, lines, bafel, selector, and separator system. It is estopped by the bafel bottom screen from re-entering the tank. When these AO molecules mix with injection oil sludge, a stopage usually occures at the carb cover fuel hole as a "liquid steel" clog that can only be removed by an 1/8th inch drill bit.
ALWAYS:
before starting the engine, remove the seat and look, touch, and SMELL for gas leaks or gas vapors.
Use 7" quality zip ties. I like Thomas & Betts. http://www.tnb.com/ps/pubint/index.cgi?a=get_sub&cid=2 --On my raceing engines I prefer catalog # TY232M, a polyamide & SS ty-rap (zip-tie).
http://fastflowfuellines.com/ I just LOVE the CLEAR line.
http://www.sea-doo.net/Specifications/index.asp Red Stripe USCG approved fuelline by Goodyear Rubber Products is the Best (and most costly) for stock ski's in my opionion.
Gas Tank Breather Check Valves
A common cause of a carburetor needle(s) & seat(s) leaking fuel into the cylinders, wetting the spark plugs and causeing a hard start condition when motor is hot. How can gas get past a needle valve other than what I have talked about? One way is if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it. The valve should open at approx. 3-5lbs. psi.
Liberal use of Grease on Carbs
Grease on all carb threads during re-assembly will make taking them apart again. If after re-assembly if carb fails the leak down test of holding 5 lbs psi on your pop off tester for 5 minutes. Moisture permiation thru the carb bodies can pick up aluminum molecule oxidants and can form mineral deposits internally and clog the small carb orifaces & filter. Use of White Litheum grease or marine grease helps prevent this electrolitic process. Saltwater adds more electrolosis to the minerals causing them to become potasium cementious. Apply grease also to cables & linkages.
Hope you read this.
to jump to 2nd sequel, the "how could this have Happened to my baby" story. :stupid:
You can avoid it happening:
To REPLACE FUEL LINES
Tempo fuel line was used on all skis from 1994 thru 2002. Seadoo 587's-717's = 25'of 1/4"fuel line. Replace the aluminum Selector Valve with a plastic valve to eliminate more Aluminum Oxide from the circulatory delivery system.
First, remove the negative battery cable from battery then siphon and empty any gas from tank.
On 587's, 657's, & 717 skis, cut the new 1/4"I.S.dia. gas line one piece 12" long, two pieces 24" long, two pieces 60" long.
Remove the fuel selector switch by pulling the center plug of the fuel dial with a needle, and remove the phillips #2 screw,
and wiggle & pull until the knob pulls off. Then unscrew the 22mm plastic nut, washer, and push it thru the hull, into interior
compartment. Next, under steering and in front compartment, useing a 10mm ratchet wrench, remove the nut on top of the separator
filter's bracket to free it. Cut all the old fuel lines about 2" away from each part, and set aside. On top of the fuel tank is
a four line bafel top. Look for the vent line and pull that up and off, it probly will come easily. Make a mental note of the
zip ties to the lines as you will tie everything secure from bouncing around when you are done. Next, cut the three remaing lines
2" above the bafel, and pull them up and off as well. Next, undo the two rubber strapes holding the gas tank down in its position,
then unclip the fuel bafel two wire electrical connector. Unhook starboard oil tank strap. At this point you could attempt removal of the bafel from tank,
Inspect the fuel separator/filter O-ring and gas tank vent one-way check valve. Remove the gas tank fuel bafel and clean the bottom screen,
this is the most overlooked filter in the fuel delivery system. When clogged can overwork the drawing power of the carburetor fuel pump. Any Goo from deteriorated lines is immediatly recirculated into the outgoing fuel supply line. Any tubulented goo drops to bottom of the bafel when ski sits.
or wait and grab the emty gas tank from frontside and remove from the ski thru the compartment hatch, and you mat be able to manuver
it out along with the tank as a unit. Remove the fafel by loosening the lower gear clamp and pulling the bafel up. A circuit board and
a float with a magnet on it is inside the bafel and sends a signal to the MPEM and gauge as to the fuel level. The bottom of the bafel
has a clip/screen, you should remove and clean, and look at the short and full lenth fuel straw in there. The one that is at bottom
where the clip/screen is, is the RESERVE. The one thats about 1 1/2" short is the ON straw. Mark the On & Reserve spigot tube at the
top of the bafel on each tube. Even draw a circle front of the tank bafel with a majick marker of the two wires and four tubes. Mark the O & R on
your drawing, the two other tubes, one is a vent line connection, the other is the fuel returm line from carb & returns unused fuel to tank tube.
Remove the Carburator Air Box to gain access and remove the supply and return fuel lines from the carbs, and discard them. Next, clean
out the fuel tank (use a rag swab on a slim rod) Clean the fuel bafel, disassemble the fuel separator bowl and filter and square O-ring
and clean with soapy water. Clean (if yours has a disassembly screw) or replace the fuel selector switch. Next, useing a helper to lift on
the Oil Tank, slide the clean tank with bafel installed into position and secure the two straps on the gas tank and starboard side strap of oil tank.
Next, look at the fuel selector switch and push the two 2 ft new hoses on the ON and RESERVE nipple and the 1' hose on the unmarked or "fuel out"
nipple and secure with Oetiker clamps, 7 1/2" quality zip tie (TY-RAP) on #4 screw clamps, the three installed hoses. Majic mark the open ends
of the ON hose with an "O" and "R" on the reserve. Push the open end of the short 1' hose onto the assembled separator filter "in" nipple and
secure. Install the 5' hose previously cut on the arrowed "out" on the separator/filter as the supply line to carburetor. Next, remount this unit
first back onto the hull bracket, lines faceing front, and then selector to hull, and secure both. Look at your drawing on tank and bafel and
attach the O to O, and R to R. Next apply air pressure to the old vent line,and if it escapes out the starboard vent hole that is just below the
outside bumper, the check valve and line are OK and re-useable. Apply same to vent at the front compartment latch to check that line and valve.
If it vents the pressure out the S/b same hole, it is OK also. Connect vent line to either bafel nipple and secure. Route the supply fuel line
so it goes in front of the gas filler hose, then back thru the Black multi-holder, then to front carb. Cut a 5' fuel line and attach and secure
to the fourth bafel nipple, and route it next to the supply line previously ran, and route it to the rear of carburetor. Reconnect the electric
bafel wires. Next, useing ZIP-TIES, secure just barely snug, all lines and wires, insureing clearance of front compartment basket. Next you are
ready to put gas in the tank and purge the fuel delivery lines of air useing air pressure applyed into the rear carb return hose, and with fuel
cap on and fuel selector at ON position and then in the RESERVE position, insureing the fuel routes thru the supply line. Gental pressure applied
several times will net the desired gas flowing results.For the carbs to work, you have got to have the flame arrestor on. This is what creates resistance, along with the manifold pressure created by the compression of the engine, to get the gas to the motor. So, if you don't have the flame arrestor on, you'll never get fuel to the motor.
A plastic fuel selector valve is preferred over an aluminum because the aluminum can Oxidize from moisture and results in common corrosion, mineral coagulation and electolitic accumilation, & saltwater mineral electrolosis.
Use of White Litheum Grease brushed liberaly on the Aluminum Carburetor(s) stops permiation of moisture thru the metal. It lubricates the linkages & cables thereto attached. Use of Stabile or Seafoam as and additive in the gas, along with a small amount of Injection Oil will help unavoidable contaminats from damageing the fuel delivery system, such as rust from fuel suppliers
the fuel float magnet oxidation, carburetor internal steel part oxidation, and chemically reduces the size of the moisture molecule, which helps fuel flow delivery system componets.
Use your Pop off tester to check the IN & OUT directional air check valves in the breath line attached to Bafel top nipple, up to the hatch "in" vent and rub rail "expell" vent . They should open and allow air flow at 3-5 lbs psi. if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it and goes into lower case,
causeing over-rich condition resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
HOW TO ROUTE/PURGE FUEL SYSTEM LINES
Listening closly, Open gas cap in case any pressure is in there, then re-tighten. Remove the gas supply line from carb
and put the hose end into a catch bottle. Remove the fuel return gas line from carb nipple and blow a small amount of air chuck pressure into return line. Watch routeing fuel flow easily from
supply in a bottle, IF it routes good, the carb is faulty from a clog or pump diaphram has a hole.
Check pulse tube for clog, it operates the fuel pump with a push-pull or suck-blow as pistons
go up-down in engine case, that is how the mag carb pump actuates route pressure thru the carb, and back into gas tank . A WD-40 straw works good for that. Attach a 2'short fuel line to the tube and if you can blow into the crank-case, its clear of debris.
On dual carb systems, when the mag carb (it gets fuel first) clogs and the PTO carb starves as a result, and that cylinder runs lean, then seizes first. Running lean can cause Glow-plugging and the engine will Rev run-away. Pulling off the lanyard will not help. Asphyxiating by pulling choke and opening throttle may stop engine run-away. Pulling spark wires may injure you and not kill engine as its getting fire from burning piston carbon or red hot spark plug.
Any SeaDoo or other jetski with OEM grey tempo fuel lines will need the entire fuel system rebuilt due to known problems with internal fuel-line deterioration & resin goo clogging up the small internal carborator filters, fuel selector valve and most other fuel system components. Symptoms also include engine bogging at higher speeds (3500 rpm). Continued riding will cause carbonizing & a burned aluminum pistons and engine failure due to lean fuel/air mixtures and high combustion temps. The only solution is to replace ALL the fuel lines with standard automotive NAPA lines, clear race Fuel lines like: http://fuellines.biz, or equivalent, rebuild the carborators with rebuild kits,new needle & seats, and replacing the fuel selector valve. It is suggested to install a clear glass marine grade inline fuel filter just before the carborators to catch any remaining debris, and do a pre-ride dump of the separator fuel bowl.
Inspect the fuel separator,filter,square O-ring and gas tank vent TWO one-way check valves, that open at 3-5 lbs psi. One breaths air in from near front compartment latch, One expells under the rub rail, if this one clogs or fails overpressure in tank can open the needle valve(s) and leak fuel into a shut off engine. A hard to start occurs and can wear out a starter prematurly. The fuel bafel's bottom removable cap filter/screen if not cleaned recirculates hardened injection oil mineral sludge Goo/debris into the carbs, over & over until the carb filters fail, then bogging occures.
When the Aluminum carburetor & Aluminum Selector valve goes ungreased, moisture permiates Aluminum Oxide thru the walls into the fuel circulatory of carbs, lines, bafel, selector, and separator system. It is estopped by the bafel bottom screen from re-entering the tank. When these AO molecules mix with injection oil sludge, a stopage usually occures at the carb cover fuel hole as a "liquid steel" clog that can only be removed by an 1/8th inch drill bit.
ALWAYS:
before starting the engine, remove the seat and look, touch, and SMELL for gas leaks or gas vapors.
Use 7" quality zip ties. I like Thomas & Betts. http://www.tnb.com/ps/pubint/index.cgi?a=get_sub&cid=2 --On my raceing engines I prefer catalog # TY232M, a polyamide & SS ty-rap (zip-tie).
http://fastflowfuellines.com/ I just LOVE the CLEAR line.
http://www.sea-doo.net/Specifications/index.asp Red Stripe USCG approved fuelline by Goodyear Rubber Products is the Best (and most costly) for stock ski's in my opionion.
Gas Tank Breather Check Valves
A common cause of a carburetor needle(s) & seat(s) leaking fuel into the cylinders, wetting the spark plugs and causeing a hard start condition when motor is hot. How can gas get past a needle valve other than what I have talked about? One way is if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it. The valve should open at approx. 3-5lbs. psi.
Liberal use of Grease on Carbs
Grease on all carb threads during re-assembly will make taking them apart again. If after re-assembly if carb fails the leak down test of holding 5 lbs psi on your pop off tester for 5 minutes. Moisture permiation thru the carb bodies can pick up aluminum molecule oxidants and can form mineral deposits internally and clog the small carb orifaces & filter. Use of White Litheum grease or marine grease helps prevent this electrolitic process. Saltwater adds more electrolosis to the minerals causing them to become potasium cementious. Apply grease also to cables & linkages.
Hope you read this.
- Status
