new 1993 Sea-Doo SPX

[mikidymac]

Castrol SuperClean and a pressure washer are the best for cleaning the bilge on these.
Gasoline is dangerous and bad for the plastic and rubber parts.

 

[SPXPS]

I did it little by little. I am not sure if a pressure washer is the best idea in there.


Getting the tank out was by the way not easy.

The tank has not enough clearance at the fill port. I considered cutting the hull down a bit, but then had the idea to pry. When a pry bar or similar is inserted between hull and tank, under some pressure the tank will clear the front opening.

 

[Grim]

Blue oil is typically the wrong oil for your ski (TCW-2) these skis require API-TC oil.

1. Is the return/vent from the crankcase rotary valve chamber under the exhaust manifold.
2. Is a check valve to let air in but keep oil from leaking out. Nothing connects to the barb.
3. Is the fill hose.
4. Goes to the oil pump on the intake manifold.
5. Goes to the rotary valve cavity under the intake manifold.

Magnet is from the fuel gauge float.

Don't boost/jump start because you can fry the electronics.

Here are the older parts diagrams.. OEM Parts Finder

On the oil I would disagree....mine is blue and API-TC. I use the Lucas brand. The main point is make sure it is API-TC rated.

 

[Grim]

I did it little by little. I am not sure if a pressure washer is the best idea in there.

View attachment 67108
Getting the tank out was by the way not easy.
View attachment 67109
The tank has not enough clearance at the fill port. I considered cutting the hull down a bit, but then had the idea to pry. When a pry bar or similar is inserted between hull and tank, under some pressure the tank will clear the front opening.

I have used a pressure washer, with the low pressure tip, just don't hit the cab area directly. Mine was really dirty thanks to a rat! 99 % came clean with a couple of scrubbings. I used simple green mostly, does well on stains and heavy soiled areas.
I also removed both tanks and yes it is a jigsaw puzzle trying to get them out but with patience it works. Getting them in is a tad bit easier.

 

[mikidymac]

On the oil I would disagree....mine is blue and API-TC. I use the Lucas brand. The main point is make sure it is API-TC rated.

Yes, that is why I said typically. Silly blue API-TC

 

[Grim]

Yes, that is why I said typically. Silly blue API-TC

My bad....the English language is hard...lol

 

[SPXPS]

I broke the bottom cover off, I will glue that back on.

The float fell out, I guess it goes in like that?


I found a grey spot on the float, I guess that's where the magnet sat.

I glued the magnet in with epoxy.

waiting for it to cure
I will test it in gasoline in an hour to see if it floats.

 

[SPXPS]

no resistance reading with multimeter
I decided I don't want to cut it open to check for the fuse. The circuits seem to be corroded and beyond repair. no gauge for me

 

[artr]

I think it is worth a test by shorting the F1 fuse to see if the gauge is still working. The corrosion that appears in your pictures may just be on the surface of the board and parts and is not affecting the connections. You could also try spraying electronics cleaner (like from Walmart) on the board and parts to clean them off and insure that the corrosion/dirt is not shorting anything together. Use a small soft toothbrush and very gently rub to help remove some of the residue.

Before you go to the trouble of exposing the F1 fuse, you could try cleaning up the one resistor and reed switch at the bottom of the baffle with some rubbing alcohol and a brush or Q-tip and see if you get a resistance reading across that one resistor and reed switch by measuring directly across them from the bottom of the baffle. Use a strong magnet to close that one reed switch. If that works then I would try cleaning the whole board and shorting the F! fuse.

 

[mikidymac]

That float is trash and not worth messing with.
If you decide to keep messing with it new floats are cheap.

Amazon.com