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1 engine revs slower than the other

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Wow, that's great! So I guess the position sensor must've been noisy after all.

There's no cable adjustment at the motor?

Those helm screws should be stainless steel and I believe, they're threaded into FG but don't quote me on that.

Perhaps some soaking with penetrating oil, stainless is tough stuff for drilling. If I had to drill then I think I'd try to locate a reverse drill bit(s).

Obviously they'll eventually need to be removed...
 
Yea I found a used TPS from a 06 for $20 on e bay. IT must have got water in the sensor and messed with the internals- I plan to split it open and find out.
That is what I cant figure out, I did adjust it as much as I could on the motor side but even with the cable almost tight ( which it shouldn't be ) The throttle plate still is not open all the way. I can push it with my finger and it opens the rest of the way. I am guessing there is slack on the throttle side- I never have seen a throttle assembly removed so I don't even know if there is a adjustment at the throttle side. I might try a reverse drill bit and get the screw head off, and possibly drill 4 new holes on the side if I cant get the old ones out.
 
The two piece(front/rear) throttle cable on my 951 is adjustable in the center, at the carb and I think also at the helm.

You probably do it this way too, what I do is place the helm at WOT and loosen the adjuster nuts at the carb then pull cable sheath taught so it fully holds the butterfly open. Then readjust/tighten the jam nuts.
 
I will give that a try, cant hurt anything. I was using the black adjuster the manual says to use that's in the center of the cable ( actually near the gas tank ) to take the slack out of the cable which seemed to work but maybe I need to do it right at the TB.
 
I think you can do it in the center too, basically the sheath needs to be adjusted to a long enough length to fully bring the butterfly to it's open stop.

I like making this adjustment at the carb if possible b/c I can see exactly what the results are without having to crawl in/out/around the bilge.

Making the outer sheath longer is the same result as making the inner wire shorter. Just be careful not to adjust it too tight where it snaps the inner wire, and of course it needs to return fully to the idle stop as well.
 
I will give it a shot, if not I will be off to buy a reverse drill bit and hope for the best.
 
I tried to adjust the cable at the engine with the throttle wide open and still after taking up the slack it will not open all the way on its own. It only opens how it should if the cable is made too tight and then the throttle does not return all the way. Does this mean the cable has too much slack at the throttle side? Hooked up the candoo and I only get 79.6 open vs 85-86 on the other side. :(
 
Hmm, I'm wondering if the TB end of cable might be in the wrong position relative to the bell crank or something?

I'm not familiar exactly with that setup but can you maybe post a couple/few pics of this area?

I kinda doubt you need access to the throttle side since nobody's been in there? I do wonder if the cable is binding inside though, and it's possible the inner wire may have come off a guide pulley or something like that?

I'm gonna take a look at those drawings for ideas.

Otherwise assuming it's only an adjustment issue you shouldn't need access to the helm controller unless you run out of adjustment at the TB or center adjustment, these jam not adjustments only change the sheath length in relationship to the inner wire length.

Could be something popped off inside the helm controller I suppose, that shortened the overall travel length, but I have no idea if that's even possible.
 
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If you have an impact screwdriver a blow or two with that might help to loosen those helm screws using the shock to break the corrosion or if there's locktite holding them? Drawing shows locktite 425, so a whack might break them loose?.

lok-tite 767 anti-seize is used on the screws under the cover, those might be the ones you're having trouble removing.
 
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I checked the position of the cable on the TB and it is in the same slot as the other engine. There is one other setting that is farther down but I do not think the cable would be long enough. When I set the throttle to wide open and then I push the TB the rest of the way, the cable gets pushed into the cable housing. It is almost like you said the throttle has something in the way that wont let it open any farther. I was able to get the throttle top cover off but its the other screws that are totally corroded from salt. I did try a impact driver and all it did is strip the head off.
 
pwgsx said:
I checked the position of the cable on the TB and it is in the same slot as the other engine. There is one other setting that is farther down but I do not think the cable would be long enough. When I set the throttle to wide open and then I push the TB the rest of the way, the cable gets pushed into the cable housing. It is almost like you said the throttle has something in the way that wont let it open any farther. I was able to get the throttle top cover off but its the other screws that are totally corroded from salt. I did try a impact driver and all it did is strip the head off.
Click to expand...

Now I'm wondering if the cable is binding inside or something like that. Usually in that case a temporary option is to lubricate it but that usually doesn't last long even if it works, replacement has always been the solution 99% of the time and oh-boy does a new cable make one heck of a difference! Especially on steering systems.

So it's looking like you're going to have to get those screws out somehow... Maybe can take a abrasive wheel on a rotary tool die grinder and cut a straight slot in the heads then use a flat blade bit with the impact?
 
I might try that, last time I did though it snapped the drill bit. LOL. Speaking of steering cables, I bet I need one too but that will have to wait till next year. It works fine and smooth but once I am up to half to full speed, the steering becomes rather stiff. Dammm salt water!!!
 
that sounds normal, water though the pump will make it harder steering. but watch out for firm or stiff steering when out of the water or at slow speed.
make sure you check the steering cable at both ends, behind the helm (marine grease or antiseize) and at the pivot and cable seal.
i had hell replacing mine and adjusting the outer and inner cable to fit and centre the steering.
thats why now i always check the reverse and steering cables and lube if needed.

pwgsx said:
I might try that, last time I did though it snapped the drill bit. LOL. Speaking of steering cables, I bet I need one too but that will have to wait till next year. It works fine and smooth but once I am up to half to full speed, the steering becomes rather stiff. Dammm salt water!!!
Click to expand...
 
Just thought I would share what the inside of the bad TPS looked like. I didn't find any water or water spots but found some gunk in the middle area ( right where the throttle was not responding well ).
 

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