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look up under a 2004 sportster 4 tec in the body and accessories page, it wouldn't be hard to make if you could find some material similar to what they are. your $64 million dollar question about what they are used for...I haven't got a clue...Lol

what boat do you have? there are a few models of challengers that came with towers from the factory.

here is the part number 204071739 they are obsolete from Brp but maybe you can find them at a dealer that has old stock on them

yep, that is what it is, it is for lubricating your throttle body, the end of it should be capped really, isn't really going to cause an issue if it isn't though but it is sucking air into the intake through that hose that isn't filtered so it is best if it is capped.

yes, the titanium washer kits could last for 200hrs or even more, but the recommended service life on them is 100hrs, I have seen titanium washer kits start to slip with less than 100hrs but that is relevant to how the boat is used, the only reason I would rebuild a titanium washer kit sooner is...

It is not typical to see that kind of problem in a four stroke but it can still happen, if it starts to suck air in between the throttle body and the intake manifold gasket the air/fuel mixture the computer thinks it is getting would be leaned out, that can lead to burnt valves or even cracked...

if your plug is grey and it is getting oil like you say then you have a fuel problem in the form of a fuel restriction or calibration issue or an air leak in the engine or intake between the engine and carb, your post is pretty vague and that may be why your not getting any responses.

maybe this will help, it was a problem on earlier 210's later on they changed how the mounted the side vents. PROBLEM On the above mentioned models, the adhesive between the retaining studsand the plastic side vents may fail. A gap may be visible between the hulland the side vents; this may...

5.8 quarts for a challenger 180

nothing that I have ever seen, you need to grind the cracks out and the area around it and respray it with gel coat, depending on the size of the area I will grind the crack out and feather the edges out and just lay gel coat in the area with a putty knife or screwdriver to build it up and when...

The only time I pull an intake grate off is if I am replacing it because it was smashed. otherwise if you get something stuck in there like a stick or a rope just remove the jet pump. 15 mins and you have it off. most times if you got something in there you would need to replace the wear ring...

nice project!

It's on the back side of the head underneath the vent valve

it could help to replace the carbon seal but I would fill the hull with water and see if you find it leaking or other leaks, just don't fill it past your air intake. fix your water leak before it becomes a bigger problem regardless if it is cavitating or not

ceramic washer and titanium washer style kits were supposed to be 100hrs, titanium washer kits came out in 2008 in pwc and 2009 in the boats. Moly coated steel washer style are good for 200hrs I think that kit came out around 2011. I would definitely change a ceramic washer style kit out much...

should see close to 12 volts on the yellow red wire and ground on the other wire when hitting the start button. that should close the connection between both the red wires on the relay

does it go to ground when hitting the start button? basically 0 ohms to negative post of battery

ride shoe not sealed properly can cause cavitation too

ok, but what about the voltage and ground at the plug?

looks like you have a leak on the ride shoe, that is your heat exchanger for the engine, there is a plate on the top of it so there is a good chance it is leaking around the plate of the screws that hold it down. you may have to pressurize it to see where it is leaking from