ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , heres why. the condition u describe would not imoprove with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period.
i hope not but sounds like a possibility . How common is this. Ill do all other trouble shooting first .there was a torn clear fuel diaphram found and one of the needles needed adjusting.
*** ive gotten mixed answers on this but if the D plate and chip are in use is it NECESSARY to rejet...
works if done right. its the first thing to try. also the bigger the pilot hole the bigger reverse thread tool you can get in there and the more cooperative the bolt becomes. ive never met a bolt i couldnt get out . not always with this method but MANY times.
drill and use reverse thread easy out type tool after soaking with blaster for a day. if that doesn't work when you drill hole for reverse threaded easy out make sure you have the initial drill hole precisely in the center of the bolt and keep drilling with progressively larger bits until...
if you used the right size tap shouldnt be any shavings, maybe some leftover loctight and maybe micro scopic alluminum . Depends on how aggressively you ran the tap through also>
Good advice. I built many cast alluminum motors, and torquing and sequence is important for mating, warping issues as well as initial warm up/ cool down , break-in proceedures.
ALright ...why wont my oil pump shaft reach the square fitting on the crank shaft about 2-3mm too short???WTF did i get wrong crank or am i doing something wrong?
btw got the full refund!!
OK SO WHICH IS IT . Do i need to rejet or not with dplate only change???. Just read Riva tech said SHOULD rejet , and another respected tech saic your ok not to with just dplate change?????