Need some 94 gts oil line help

[offgrididaho]

I have a 94 GTS single carb 587 ski I bought at an estate sale. Its been sitting 15+ years, covered, in a heated garage. I replaced the oil, put fresh gas in it and it fired right up. I took it out on the lake and it blasted to top end really quick. I decided to rebuild the carb and it needed it, rubber diaphrams were stiff. In the process of getting the carb off I boke one of the tiny oil lines (3/32 ??) and both need replacing now. I am also going to replace the feed and return oil lines. I think one of those is 5/16 and the other is bigger so ??? size?

I also replaced all the gray green goo fuel lines and on/off switch. They were bad too.

Can someone tell me the 3 sizes I need to order?
Can I replace the oil lines without pulling the pump off?
Is there a video or "how to" on replacing the oil lines and bleed them?
Can you tell me how many feet of each line?

Thanks....... I'll post pics later if it helps.

I am new to this and tried searching but cannot find the larger line size of how to replace the tiny 3/32 lines. I don't want to break the fitting and they are stuck on hard.

 

[burtshaver2021]

8mm to the pump, 12mm to the rotary valve and 3/32 from the pump to the intake or buy the 1500mm of genuine oil line for pump to intake from BRP which I prefer. I have yet to see the 8mm or the 12mm lines needing replacement. Where did you buy the carb rebuild kit from? You don’t need to pull the oil pump off to change the oil lines. If it’s the original small oil lines with the metal clamps I’ve squeezed the clamps gently, once the clamp is off I will cut gently along the side of the oil line on the fitting to make it easier to pull off.

 

[mikidymac]

You don’t need to replace any of the oil lines except for the two small 3/32” ones. None of the others ever go bad.

 

[offgrididaho]

8mm to the pump, 12mm to the rotary valve and 3/32 from the pump to the intake or buy the 1500mm of genuine oil line for pump to intake from BRP which I prefer. I have yet to see the 8mm or the 12mm lines needing replacement. Where did you buy the carb rebuild kit from? You don’t need to pull the oil pump off to change the oil lines. If it’s the original small oil lines with the metal clamps I’ve squeezed the clamps gently, once the clamp is off I will cut gently along the side of the oil line on the fitting to make it easier to pull off.

I went to mikuni and they had a link to order from them on Amazon for the kit. It was in a mikuni blister pack.
OK I picked up the 3/32 tygon from ACE hardware small motor shop. I could not find the clamps. Do you have a link or source to the tiny clamps. I dont want to run zip-ties.

So i guess the mini ear clamps for the 3/32 lines. I will also replace the oil filter. Do I just bleed the lines until no bubbles? I have read here that the 1/2in oil line fits loose. Would a 7/16ths ID line work better? I want to order the larger two lines and have them here just in case. I will hold off on installing for now.

I changed the impeller res oil too. Anything else I need to do? Any vidoes on replacing the 2 tiny oil lines?

Thanks for the help......

 

[burtshaver2021]

No source for the clamps, I always use zip ties. The small oil lines fit so snug that there’s no way they are coming off even without zip ties. To get them on I hold the end of the hose with needle nose pliers and start putting tjr hose on, on a 45 degree angle. It helps to heat the hose with a hair dryer a little first. I would order the larger lines from BRP, I would have ordered the smaller lines from BRP as well. And my reasoning for that is, they fit the way they are supposed to fit, they are made out of proper material that will last 20 years plus. I know tygon is a go to for a lot of people but with all the made in China crap I like to have a 3rd party (BRP) doing some due diligence. If not ordering from BRP order metric ID hose.if your changing the 12mm lines to the RV they don’t need to be bled. For the 8mm hose to the oil pump, take the hose off the filter side closest to the pump, hold the filter vertically but beneath the level of the oil in the tank for a second or 2, then put it back on the remaining hose to the pump, then open the bleeder screw on thff red oil pump for a few seconds. Then start the machine, reach down and pull the oil pump lever to full open while the machjnff ed is idling to fill up the new small oil lines. Make sure the mark in the oil pump lever is aligned with the mark on the oil pump. Did you pressure test the come after changing the oil? If not, might be a good idea to take the screw out after riding and check the oil for level and water after riding

 

[offgrididaho]

No source for the clamps, I always use zip ties. The small oil lines fit so snug that there’s no way they are coming off even without zip ties. To get them on I hold the end of the hose with needle nose pliers and start putting tjr hose on, on a 45 degree angle. It helps to heat the hose with a hair dryer a little first. I would order the larger lines from BRP, I would have ordered the smaller lines from BRP as well. And my reasoning for that is, they fit the way they are supposed to fit, they are made out of proper material that will last 20 years plus. I know tygon is a go to for a lot of people but with all the made in China crap I like to have a 3rd party (BRP) doing some due diligence. If not ordering from BRP order metric ID hose.if your changing the 12mm lines to the RV they don’t need to be bled. For the 8mm hose to the oil pump, take the hose off the filter side closest to the pump, hold the filter vertically but beneath the level of the oil in the tank for a second or 2, then put it back on the remaining hose to the pump, then open the bleeder screw on thff red oil pump for a few seconds. Then start the machine, reach down and pull the oil pump lever to full open while the machjnff ed is idling to fill up the new small oil lines. Make sure the mark in the oil pump lever is aligned with the mark on the oil pump. Did you pressure test the come after changing the oil? If not, might be a good idea to take the screw out after riding and check the oil for level and water after riding

OK thanks. I dont know what the oil line marker is?? Any pictures? I will try to look that up. Is there an adjustment?
I was able to find the clamps. The OD of the tubing is 4.5 and I found 4.5-3.5 clamps. I need to measure the tubing on the fitting once I get the old off to make sure these clamps will work before odering.

https://www.huyett.com/hc2e-0045-ssb

 

[burtshaver2021]

This is from my 95HX, well up till last week. The cable forked to the oil pump lever, you can see the mark in the lever and in the pump, they need to be lined up.

 

[mikidymac]

You don’t need the clamps, just high quality zipties like Thomas & Betts.

 

[offgrididaho]

You don’t need the clamps, just high quality zipties like Thomas & Betts.

OOOps.... I just went to the hardware store and got some small zipties. I put 2 on each hose fitting, one as a backup. Its going to be good enough for now. Ive been working on the ski for a week and Im sick of it for now. I have real bad arthritis so its one hour at a time, then rest.

Which way does the oil lever go, under or over? Im guessing its the way I feel spring tensoin and NOT no tension.
One last question. I see 3 big oil lines coming/going to the motor. One huge one on the left side on bottom all by itself that feeds back into the top of the oil tank and two medium size lines going from bottom of the oil tank to the carb. I know the one with the filter is the incoming, what are the other two? And which is which?