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Another GTX Di

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Shall do... Last time I tested voltage at battery terminals "At idle hovering around 12.8v at revs only goes to 13v"

Just pulled the battery.. 12.7V, 12V 30Ah /10HR - I think TDR moto, nothing to indicate age...shops closed now will have to wait till Monday for check/replacement
 
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Too low. Did you measure the resistance between the three yellow wires feeding the voltage regulator? You also should measure each yellow wire to ground.

Yellow to ground should be an open.
Yellow to yellow .1 to 1.0 ohm

If you measure AC voltage yellow wire to yellow wire, it should be around 50 VAC

Hope it helps
 
Great help, thanks!!!!

Just measured resistance.

Yellow to ground is open.

Yellow to yellow is in .1 to 1.0 ohm range.

But the connector pins are covered in that bluey greeny corrosion you get in a marine environment particularly the tropics (where I am)!

I'm suspecting I may have some high resistance wires in the system contributing to the problem. First thing Monday new battery, clean every connector I can find and give it another try....
 
Ive helped so many people over the years that buy an aftermarket one that was dead out of the box or lasted a few hours its ridiculous. If its my machine I pony up for an OEM and be done with it.
 
You mentioned the fuel pressure drops from 107 when it hiccups. Watching the gage closely, can you tell what event happens first? Also, if you pull the plug wire, does it climb to 107 during cranking, and how long does it take to do so?

The pressure in the electric pump should can build all the pressure it needs in under 2 seconds, but the air pump is responsible for changing the fuel pumps regulator from the 27 you see at "key on" to the 107 at running or cranking.
The air pump is typically a little slower because it pumps at engine RPM. So, at cranking it might take 3-5 seconds to get to 107, but it should still get there with cranking only. We still haven't heard about compression tests, but given your recent descriptions it doesn't sound like thats your issue. But still an important test to rule out.

As far as the needle jumping on your fuel gage, thats completely normal, your seeing the pulses of the air pump. That's why the needle gets steadier at higher RPM's at idle you have to visually pick the center of the needle variation.

As far as the R/R goes, the 4tec regulators are a good option too. They can handle the load better, but do require swapping the connection plug & customizing the mounting a bit. A bit of fooling around.

did you get your 8V at cranking figured out. Not sure if its related, but thats not normal. Does the battery read over 12.5 just sitting? Maybe you have a couple things going on here...
 
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Hi

Looks like I have multiple issues........

1. Just had battery tested - faulty - replaced. (after fitting new battery and cleaning rectifier connectors seems to my inexperienced ear whilst not 100% better to be running a little smoother?)

2. Put DVM across new battery, no longer drops voltage when cranking (fault indication on hindsight) but appears regulator/rectifier faulty as voltage does not increase when revving. Will order OSD Heavy Duty Rectifier today.

3. I do not have compression tester so have not tested... if required will purchase.

4. It appears to me that the hiccup occurs prior to fuel pressure drop?

5. I pulled the plug wires and turned over as suggested, fuel line pressure does not reach 107, bounces around 75. But interestingly does reach 107 if the unit is running? Does this indicate poor air pressure/pump or something else?

6. When running at rev's still get MAINT warning light
 
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Fuel pressure is close. 80psi fuel + 27psi air = 107psi. If 75psi were total, I doubt it would even start.
You are on the right track with the voltage rectifier. Replace it and you should see quite a difference.
 
68ragtop said:
You mentioned the fuel pressure drops from 107 when it hiccups. Watching the gage closely, can you tell what event happens first? Also, if you pull the plug wire, does it climb to 107 during cranking, and how long does it take to do so?

The pressure in the electric pump should can build all the pressure it needs in under 2 seconds, but the air pump is responsible for changing the fuel pumps regulator from the 27 you see at "key on" to the 107 at running or cranking.
The air pump is typically a little slower because it pumps at engine RPM. So, at cranking it might take 3-5 seconds to get to 107, but it should still get there with cranking only. We still haven't heard about compression tests, but given your recent descriptions it doesn't sound like thats your issue. But still an important test to rule out.

As far as the needle jumping on your fuel gage, thats completely normal, your seeing the pulses of the air pump. That's why the needle gets steadier at higher RPM's at idle you have to visually pick the center of the needle variation.

As far as the R/R goes, the 4tec regulators are a good option too. They can handle the load better, but do require swapping the connection plug & customizing the mounting a bit. A bit of fooling around.

did you get your 8V at cranking figured out. Not sure if its related, but thats not normal. Does the battery read over 12.5 just sitting? Maybe you have a couple things going on here...
Click to expand...

Ragtop knows the DI well, his info has helped many.
Minnetonka has been living and breathing Seadoo skis many years.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
Ive helped so many people over the years that buy an aftermarket one that was dead out of the box or lasted a few hours its ridiculous. If its my machine I pony up for an OEM and be done with it.
Click to expand...

There are a lot of different regulator designs too, 3-phase 2-rectifier 1/2 wave, 6-rectifier full wave, on and on... really must be made to match the stator and chances of eanie-meany-miney-moe just aren't very good.
 
Spent the rest of the afternoon checking and cleaning connectors.

I think..... I may have found the cause of the hiccuping, missing like symptoms.

Connector 2 on the MPEM had some corrosion bottom left hand corner pins (I think pins 6, 7, 8 - 12, 13, 14, 15) since cleaning the unit is running much more smoothly and rev's without missing or having a conniption.

Still have no charging voltage from the rectifier. But feeling better about the beast :-)

Am I OK to take for a short run on the water to test with faulty rectifier?
 
G&J said:
Spent the rest of the afternoon checking and cleaning connectors.

I think..... I may have found the cause of the hiccuping, missing like symptoms.

Connector 2 on the MPEM had some corrosion bottom left hand corner pins (I think pins 6, 7, 8 - 12, 13, 14, 15) since cleaning the unit is running much more smoothly and rev's without missing or having a conniption.

Still have no charging voltage from the rectifier. But feeling better about the beast :-)

Am I OK to take for a short run on the water to test with faulty rectifier?
Click to expand...

Yes, but only for a short run before it goes into limp mode.

FWIW,
I own three DI skis and love them. Instant starts, smooth running, sip gas, lots of pep and pretty reliable despite what most on the forum think. They are really not that expensive to fix compared to carbed skis, especially with a candoo pro, and a candoo pro is no more expensive that a set of new carbs from OSD parts. They are just like any other ski in that if, you take care of them they will last.
 
That harness has the crank position sensor & DESS post in it I believe, so maybe the crank position sensor was causing the misfire? That would make sense. I would think that would also trip the main light. If the DESS post or start stop switch was effected I would think it would just shut off, but not sure on that one.

If your still testing things. See if your able to rig up a pressure gage dead headed on the air line (removed from the air rail). Hold the throttle to the bars & crank. You should be able to get 90 PSI from the air pump at cranking speed. Assuming its spinning over at the correct RPMS.

Maybe when you tested the fuel pressure at crank maybe your voltage was too low? IF you hold the throttle to the bar during the crank the fuel pump will not run either. Sounds like you tested it with it in the normal idle position though.

Sounds like your making progress! I think you can buy replacement pins for those connectors.
 
I'll suggest when testing/concentrating on measuring fuel pressure while cranking, remove the spark plugs (ground plug wires of course) (and as Ragtop advised holding open throttle to full position f-pump doesn't run while cranking). Having plugs out makes for easy spin, thus good air pressure and low load on battery.

I guess you won't make it very far without rectifier, and even then if rough might be low voltage issue.
 
that is a great idea! might spit a little fuel out the holes though, one more reason to ground those wires. :) could unplug the injectors but that will just put more codes in the memory...
 
X2 on removing the spark plugs. Never thought of that.
When I get the engine back in my third DI next week, I think I will try that.
 
jhjesse said:
X2 on removing the spark plugs. Never thought of that.
When I get the engine back in my third DI next week, I think I will try that.
Click to expand...

Have the DI bug do you? :D They are cool as heck. They are sorta like a rubix cube. Once you figure them out, you can't help but pick one up & play with it.

Just for the record though, I was never very good at those..... Realizing that, I was going to change it to "women" but that would have been horribly inappropriate in that sentence, so I'll digress
 
68ragtop said:
Have the DI bug do you? :D They are cool as heck. They are sorta like a rubix cube. Once you figure them out, you can't help but pick one up & play with it.

Just for the record though, I was never very good at those..... Realizing that, I was going to change it to "women" but that would have been horribly inappropriate in that sentence, so I'll digress
Click to expand...


Lol. I completely understand...the rubix cube part of course. ;)
 
Yep, those injected 2-strokes are smooth runners compared to the carburated motors and burn noticeably less fuel doing it. The larger JohnnyRude e-tec outboards have an incredible sounding bark I never heard from an outboard before.
 
Sigh... received and fitted new rectifier, no change. Gotta sort out this charging system conundrum. Due to the corrosion I found earlier I will recheck the plugs/circuits and when doing so get some decent contact cleaner and dielectric grease. After that assuming the rectifier is good I believe I need to check rectifier input voltage next.

If I am reading the manual right I disconnect (yellow) three pin cable from magneto to rectifier. Start unit, rev to 3500 and I should get 45 to 70 Vac between any two pins. Is this correct? In other words I could (for a short time) run unit with rectifier removed to test stator output?
 
Yes. You are correct. Since you said you have corrosion on the MPEM plug, you very well could have corrosion on the plug that plugs into the magneto cover. The plug is a six pin connector, three are yellow, and used for the magneto, and two are for the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). I know the 02 DI I have home (needs an engine + a lot more) which was not charging, that connector had a lot of corrosion.

I don't know of a great contact cleaner. I have used some, none that will make the oxidation go away, it usually results in new pins/sockets.

I would rather test with the rectifier connected, but you would the the Y test cable described in the manual.
 
Make sure battery cables are clean at the starter and engine ground. Also twist battery cables and see if they are crunchy...possibly corroded from inside.
 
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