Oil Reservoir seems to be leaking

[Rblancha]

I have a 99 RFI and Oil is leaking into my bilge and the only place that seems likely at this point is the oil reservoir. I've pulled it and plan on replacing the grommet at the bottom of the tank where the lines connect. Quick question, does the plastic piece where the lines connect just pop off/out of the tank? I thought I'd ask before I forced it off. Thanks.

 

[Dr Honda]

That’s probably exactly what leaking. The rubber shrinks, and it will leak.

The plastic fitting is just pushed in. Give it a twist, and it should come out. (Drain the oil first)

 

[Jono6716]

Replaced mine last year due to oil being in the hull.. fixed it. Took the seats off the other day and come to find oil again! Man! Now it looks to be leaking from the hose that goes under the engine on the port side of the boat.. Took it off and re-zip tied. Didn't seem to fix it. Anyone know anything about this connection? does it screw into the motor? Its the overflow line that connects from the bottom if the motor to the top section of the oil reservoir. Guess it might be going to the shop. :ack:

 

[Jono6716]

Bump. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[seadooya]

your referring to the "return" line. Its just hoseclamped to the fitting. If you can gain access, remove it, cut an inch off, then re-install, or replace with new. Any clear tubing will work.

Crazy how, Seadoo did not incorporate the fittings to the oil bottle, as one unit. Probably new it be issues, so why not make money on it

 

[1MACGYVER]

i bought my ski 2nd hand in pieces and it had been sitting corroding for a couple of years, i had a similar problem but it leaked a lot right after the rebuild. I tried sealing the bottom fitting but the leak was still there.

Turned out to be a factory aluminium plug that is pressed into the block directly opposite to the rotary valve (not a listed part but part of the block) . My seadoo mechanic pulled the motor and had a plug machined and pressed in.

To find the source of the leak he clamped the hose from the bottom of the oil tank, disconnected the top hose and while he felt around underneath i put a little bit of pressure down the top hose with an air line.

Your leak may be different but the same method may work.

 

[Rblancha]

I ended up replacing my Oil Tank as it was leaking around the seams. Now I'm seeing some oil coming out of the check valve that attaches to the Oil level assembly. Is that normal? It seemed to be more than an drip or two. I loosened the oil cap and it stopped. Didn't know exactly how the check valve functioned?

 

[new2challenger]

I have a 96 seadoo challenger and the first thing I did was bypass the oil reservoir. Its a pain in the butt to have to premix but at 5 gallons at a time its not that bad. When I got it, the engine bay was loaded with oil. A buddy of mine said those reservoir tanks are known to leak.

I premix now and have no more "oil" issues. The bypass only took 1/2 hour to set up (without rushing, of course).

 

[seadooya]

I have a 96 seadoo challenger and the first thing I did was bypass the oil reservoir. Its a pain in the butt to have to premix but at 5 gallons at a time its not that bad. When I got it, the engine bay was loaded with oil. A buddy of mine said those reservoir tanks are known to leak.

I premix now and have no more "oil" issues. The bypass only took 1/2 hour to set up (without rushing, of course).

You have oil in the rv cavity?

 

[new2challenger]

Its a 787 rotax so we filled the lower end with oil and then "looped" the hose and installed a pipe in the middle with a hole drilled in it for a vent. It works as it should.

So, yes, there is oil in the low end and I premix for the onboard tank.

 

[seadooya]

Its a 787 rotax so we filled the lower end with oil and then "looped" the hose and installed a pipe in the middle with a hole drilled in it for a vent. It works as it should.

So, yes, there is oil in the low end and I premix for the onboard tank.

thats what i was getting at. From your previous post, you made it sound to "eliminate" the entire system, and/or you just accomplished this "deletion", and yet to test yuor craft.

 

[new2challenger]

Um... I did eliminate the entire system but you still need oil in the lower end of the Rotax end to function... and yes, Ive water tested over 6 hours with no further issues from the engine. My understanding is that the seams of the oil reservoir/tank tend to leak a bit so bypassing the oil injection system is an easy fix.

There are plenty of posts on here on how to bypass it.

 

[Kiwi]

I have a 99 RFI and Oil is leaking into my bilge and the only place that seems likely at this point is the oil reservoir. I've pulled it and plan on replacing the grommet at the bottom of the tank where the lines connect. Quick question, does the plastic piece where the lines connect just pop off/out of the tank? I thought I'd ask before I forced it off. Thanks.

Just had the same problem and fixed it. The problem is most likely the seam of the 2 piece oil tank. These were poor quality and actually recalled and replaced. The oil runs down from the seam to the lowest point, being the outlet at the bottom. The grommet gets wet and is most likely OK, and is wet from the oil running down to it.
The cheapest and permanent fix is this. Drain the oil either with a syphon pump or disconnect the oil line and drain into container. Remove oil lines at top and bottom of tank, and disconnect sensor connector that leads to the top of tank. Remove filler hose. Remove 3 rubber holding straps. Remove tank and flush out. Take to a plastic welder or plastic bumper repair shop. Get the entire seam plastic welded (cost about $30) and reinstall. You won't have any more problems. It's easiest to remove the glovebox first, to access the oil tank fittings. Just take out the 4 black plastic fasteners by pushing up from underneath. Access is much easier then. Whole process takes about 2 hours, as it's fiddly.

 

[seadooya]

Just had the same problem and fixed it. The problem is most likely the seam of the 2 piece oil tank. These were poor quality and actually recalled and replaced. The oil runs down from the seam to the lowest point, being the outlet at the bottom. The grommet gets wet and is most likely OK, and is wet from the oil running down to it.
The cheapest and permanent fix is this. Drain the oil either with a syphon pump or disconnect the oil line and drain into container. Remove oil lines at top and bottom of tank, and disconnect sensor connector that leads to the top of tank. Remove filler hose. Remove 3 rubber holding straps. Remove tank and flush out. Take to a plastic welder or plastic bumper repair shop. Get the entire seam plastic welded (cost about $30) and reinstall. You won't have any more problems. It's easiest to remove the glovebox first, to access the oil tank fittings. Just take out the 4 black plastic fasteners by pushing up from underneath. Access is much easier then. Whole process takes about 2 hours, as it's fiddly.

Nice find...:cheers:

 

[HORNMAN]

Um... I did eliminate the entire system but you still need oil in the lower end of the Rotax end to function... and yes, Ive water tested over 6 hours with no further issues from the engine. My understanding is that the seams of the oil reservoir/tank tend to leak a bit so bypassing the oil injection system is an easy fix.

There are plenty of posts on here on how to bypass it.

Confused on the oil needed in the lower end comment. If I got rid of the whole oil injection thing wouldn't pre mixing the gas be all that was needed? I have a 96 GTI-(785 I think) Thx... MH

 

[itsabowtime2]

Just learned, the hard way, that their is a feed line to each cylinder. My XP had some oil in the bilge and I thought it was leaking from the reservior. But it was from one of the oil lines. Lost 1 cylinder. The lines should be replaced after 5-7 years according to the dealership. May not be your problem, but worth a look.

The good news is I now have a GTX Limited.