Engine RPM & Sync?

[turbosl2]

I am finally getting my 08 Challenger 230 SE back together. The only thing i do not have hooked up are the tachometers. I went to start the motors (individually) and its apparent that the port engine idles much higher. I obviously dont have the tachs yet but should i be worried. Do the ECUs sync the engines using the tach signals? If this is the case are the tachs needed to do this? I am trying to determine if the higher idle on port is even a problem. I cant start both motors because I only have 1 hose. I would have to make a splitter. The lake is 45min drive each way so rather figure it out on the trailer first.

 

[Joe Starbuck]

Yes, the ECU will synch the engines (by slowing down the faster one) but Synch doesn't do anything below about 3500 rpm.

 

[turbosl2]

Ok good to know. That’s what matters anyway for vibration. I will adjust the throttle cables when it’s in the water. Appreciate it

 

[Joe Starbuck]

Ok good to know. That’s what matters anyway for vibration. I will adjust the throttle cables when it’s in the water. Appreciate it

Mine is also about 300 rpm different at idle, I may get to that eventually!

 

[turbosl2]

Should be a 5min task once I drop it in and tie it up. To hard to do now without any tachs. Lol. Still waiting on fiara beede to rebuild them

 

[ski-d00]

First of all, the 08 models don't have the sync feature that the newer ones have so each motor runs independently of the other. The only way to get the motors to match each other at high rpms is to make sure the throttle cable for each motor is adjusted properly.

Secondly, the tach information has nothing to do with how the motors will run and are not necessary to have them hooked up on the 08 models that have the single analog gauges. Again, different story on the newer boats with icontrol.

The idle is not adjustable and should be around 1800 rpms. The ECU controls the idle. As long as you have slack in the cable and it's not holding the throttle partially open, you have another problem like idle bypass valve, throttle body, intake manifold air leak, etc.

 

[turbosl2]

First of all, the 08 models don't have the sync feature that the newer ones have so each motor runs independently of the other. The only way to get the motors to match each other at high rpms is to make sure the throttle cable for each motor is adjusted properly.

Secondly, the tach information has nothing to do with how the motors will run and are not necessary to have them hooked up on the 08 models that have the single analog gauges. Again, different story on the newer boats with icontrol.

The idle is not adjustable and should be around 1800 rpms. The ECU controls the idle. As long as you have slack in the cable and it's not holding the throttle partially open, you have another problem like idle bypass valve, throttle body, intake manifold air leak, etc.

Great info. Thank you. So I cannot adjust any idle. Got it. I will check the cable slack on each. Have not water tested it yet and have no real indication yet without tachs just my ear.
I have no check engine lights on so I assume that’s a good thing. Lol.

 

[turbosl2]

First of all, the 08 models don't have the sync feature that the newer ones have so each motor runs independently of the other. The only way to get the motors to match each other at high rpms is to make sure the throttle cable for each motor is adjusted properly.

Secondly, the tach information has nothing to do with how the motors will run and are not necessary to have them hooked up on the 08 models that have the single analog gauges. Again, different story on the newer boats with icontrol.

The idle is not adjustable and should be around 1800 rpms. The ECU controls the idle. As long as you have slack in the cable and it's not holding the throttle partially open, you have another problem like idle bypass valve, throttle body, intake manifold air leak, etc.

So today I went and installed my fresh rebuilt tachs. I started the port and it shows 23-2400. Port Even sounds louder by ear. than my starboard. HOWEVER as Doo guy pointed out to me my one tach shows a higher RPM when off but I am almost positive it zeroed when I put the DESS key on, prior to starting. I am going to swap connectors tomorrow to see.

Assuming my ear and the gauge is correct how do I tell if it’s the bypass valve or TB? I will check for an air leak but man that’s tough on a trailer with only being able to run a few mintutes and not burning up carbon seal. Prob have to put it in the water. I don’t have the buds system but does the bypass get carboned up? I do not have any check engine light, would that trip it or is the system an open loop ECU and doesn’t take data as part of the control loop, just reports a CEL if a sensor has gone bad, not necessarily working out of range.

Anything I can do to pinpoint the problem without BUDs I would be grateful.

 

[ski-d00]

High idle doesn't always throw codes depending on the problem. Easiest thing to do is swap TBs, then IBVs which should track it down pretty quickly.

 

[turbosl2]

High idle doesn't always throw codes depending on the problem. Easiest thing to do is swap TBs, then IBVs which should track it down pretty quickly.

Ok I will get on it. What exactly can go bad In the TB? I am familiar with how the IBV works and hoping that’s the problem

 

[turbosl2]

 

[turbosl2]

So I swapped idle valves. No change. Pulled the plugs amd all three plugs were submerged in oil. So I stare at the valve cover trying to understand how to replace the VC gasket. No bolts, lol. Does it slide off in a channel? I replaced the plugs and the manual says put sealant around the boots. I missed that the first time. Seems like ALOT of oil to fill the plug hole due to that. Is there not a full gasket that seals the VC and spark plug tubes from oil…and how to I get it off

 

[ski-d00]

Remove the plastic cover on the valve cover and you will see the 8 bolts to remove the valve cover.

You don't need sealant on the coils. Seadoo put a grease on the boots but isn't really necessary.

 

[turbosl2]

Thanks. Replaced the plug tubes. Idle is smooth at 1900! TY

 

[turbosl2]

If I had to guess the ECU was adding timing to offset the plugs being drowned in oil. Weird thing is I didn’t see any problems with the oil ones but obviously they were leaking

 

[POPPS]

Why are your plugs drowned in oil?

 

[turbosl2]

Why are your plugs drowned in oil?

The tubes needed to be replaced. Must be a common problem since my dealer has 186 in stock

 

[turbosl2]

First of all, the 08 models don't have the sync feature that the newer ones have so each motor runs independently of the other. The only way to get the motors to match each other at high rpms is to make sure the throttle cable for each motor is adjusted properly.

Secondly, the tach information has nothing to do with how the motors will run and are not necessary to have them hooked up on the 08 models that have the single analog gauges. Again, different story on the newer boats with icontrol.

The idle is not adjustable and should be around 1800 rpms. The ECU controls the idle. As long as you have slack in the cable and it's not holding the throttle partially open, you have another problem like idle bypass valve, throttle body, intake manifold air leak, etc.

Idle fixed but engines out of sync across the rpm range. About 400rpm. Can i adjust this by taking slack out of the cable. For instance my port engine is now higher than my starboard but they both idle at 1900 perfectly.

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, they will never be exactly perfect but you can get them pretty close.Take slack out and add slack as needed at the adjustment point about a foot off the throttle body. Just make sure you have slack on both at idle.