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yet another oil injection question

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traxx1951

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I was wondering if anyone can tell me if I bypass my oil injection on my 95' sportster with a 657 Rotax do I have to remove the pump shaft or block it off, or can I leave it in place as is??
 
Oil tank....

Ok.....you can actually just remove the shaft and put the pump back on. But your aware that you have to leave the injection tank in for the rotary valve. You may only want to put about 1/4 to 1/2 the oil in it, since it really won't be using it for more than lubrication.
Good luck.......:cheers:
 
Thank You, I already took the pump off and made a block off plate. I was just curious why you would have to take the gear off in the first place?
 
Damage....

It's a small teflon shaft that connects it to the crank at the magneto. If you don't disconnect it but block off your lines, then you'll burn the pump up. The teflon shaft will either melt or come apart in your magneto area, which could damage the components of the magneto.
That's why I always say just remove the drive shaft to the pump, then put it back on. You've sealed the magneto again and your not moving any oil through the injection system.
I hope that answers your question.
 
ok, I get it now. Like I said I was just curious what the reason was for removing the gear, but it all makes sense now. Thank You for your input.:hurray:
 
Could any of you guys tell me which of the oiler lines is for the rotary valve and which one is for the engine. I would like to do away with the pump.
Should one just remove the pump shaft, then remove the oil lines going to it, and plug them? Of course leaving the line for the rotary valve.


thanks,


"newbie"
 
Oil pump removal

Back to the oil pump and what line does what. Do any of you guys know what oil line does what? Can I just totally remove the entire oil pump? It looks like there is a small hole in the RAVE cover that feeds oil in there from the pump? So if I were to remove the entire pump it wouldn't have the oil line feeding into there, if thats what it does?

Any input is greatly appreciated!
 
Also, obvious the two small oil lines feed the engine through the intake, what about removing the feeder line from the oil tank that goes into the pump?

thanks
 
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Block off...

Hey Ryan...
I just installed one on mine...anyway, the liine with inline filter goes to oil pump, thats the line you'll remove. Theres a 3/8ish spigot under carbs and exhaust manifold. Those are lines you'll continue to use from the oil resivoir, Heard you can connect those 2 lines , and do away w/ resivoir, but ???,
With the blockoff plate, you'll get a plate, 2 little rubber caps, those are for the brass fittings on intake plate, and 1 big cap for underneath the resivoir,
Totally remove the pump assy, you'll have to remove the plate carbs attached to, has 6/8 allen bolts, then remove nut on inside to terminate the inner gear. Check o-ring B-4 reinstalling of plate....alright, good luck
 
Ryan here is the easiest way to go as far as getting rid of the oil injector system. Take the injector pumo off...remove the plastic shaft and replace the oil pump. With the shaft removed it won't burn up the pump from lack of lube from the passing oil in the injector. Remove the line going to the pump and block it off at the pump. leave the lines going into the carburetor manifold alone as it won't bother anything, and won't have to be pluged off. Leave the injector tank and the 3/8" oil line going to the rotary valve chamber under the carbs. This is the feed line for the oil sump. On the other side of the engine is the vent line going back to the injector tank. Leave this line in place too. This proceedure will take like less than 1/2 hr to perform and will save you the money to replace with a block off plate.

I hope this give you some ideas of replacing the injector system.

Karl
 
MANY THANKS! I've been out there all morning working on it...All I can say is HOT! It's already hot down here in SC. I did just that. I removed the oil pump and gutted her. I then plugged all three oil lines. The two really small ones going into the intake(both ends) and the one large one feeding the oil pump from the tank. Now for the other engine!

This boat hasn't ran in probably 7 years, so I don't think this will be easy. But I'll give it a try. I have successfully restored and old Kawasaki JS550 stand up ski(that now can rip the water up!), so maybe I can handle this-we'll see. I've drained gas/oil, and lubed the cylinders very good. I have both motors running by putting a small amount of fuel in the carbs and turning her over. I've cleaned one of the carb pairs so far (the engine I'm working on now). And I'm real close to having her run on her own...

thanks for the help!

OH, one more thing. How the He11 do I get to the bolts under the rear seat, to get the seats out? Upholstery needs replacing!
 
You do a hand stand in the engine compartment.lol You will see only 2 places between the gas tank and the bottom of the seat this is where the bolts are. 2 on each side hold the bottom of the seat on. The arm rest bolt can be removed by removing cup holder on passenger side and a long skiny arm [not mine it is to fat] On the driver side you will have to remove the shifter to get to the bolt. good luck Robin :cheers:
 
Been reading this and other threads about oil injection with interest. I'm leaning towards putting in a rebuilt engine from SBT. Thye mechanic that's going to be doing the work suggested maybe doing away with the oil injection. He told me they are known to fail. Although I like the convenience of the oil injection I would rather have piece of mind using premix. How many of you out there have done away with it and recommend it? Thanks.
 
so do i need to keep the tank for bottom end lub or can i connect a hose from one side to the other side of the bottom end (on a 787)
 
This is my first ski. I just got a 92 GTX. It runs, but the PTO cylinder is hot. I started checking and the it appears the oil line to the PTO cylinder is dissintegrating.

I want to go to premix. It only makes sense.

Here is my problem, and I am sure its a simple answer someone can help me.
I can't seem to find a way to get the starboard aft screw out on the rotary cover to remove the carb. How does one do this?

I took off the air box and flame arrester cover and have gotten the other 3 bolts out, but I don't see a way to get the 4th.

If there is another way please educate me... I don't see how to get a wrench in there to remove it.
 
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