Working out the kinks on a 96 XP

[Wayfaring]

My wife used to race a 96 XP back in the day and has been wanting to get back on the water for as long as I've known her. We recently picked up an XP that was completely stock and I've been learning how to work on things from this forum and her old race mechanic (Chris@Watercraft Magic). The first thing I did was to troubleshoot the inoperative VTS. The seller had just replaced the motor and it still wasn't working. These forums pointed me to the rear electrical box and the fuse for the VTS. After opening the rear box, I found about an inch of water in the bottom (along with a submerge blown fuse for the VTS. Replacing the fuse and removing the water fixed the VTS. The next thing to do was to replace all of the gray tempo lines with new fuel lines. The first stainless worm clamps I ordered were M6's and too big. I re-ordered M4's, but they also seemed too big. I read on the forums about using tie wraps and went that route instead, which seemed to work. The battery it came with was dead within a week and wouldn't hold a charge, so that was next to get replaced. Carbs were pulled apart, inspected and cleaned. The fuel filters were almost completely black with a tar like residue, but they cleaned up nice. Low needle set to spec of 1 turn out and high set to 0. I also checked the oil injection pump adjustment and was it slightly off and I adjusted the cable.




First attempts to start it after getting it all back together produced some head scratching. Again, the forums rescued me by pointing me toward the answer. I had two lines reversed on the fuel baffle (which I thought I had avoided by replacing one line at a time, but evidently not).

With everything seemingly working while trailered, it was time to put it in the water and see where we were. We took it down to Body Beach in Lake Havasu last Saturday and my wife had a blast for about 15 minutes before coming in to let me get my first ride on any PWC. It seemed a little sluggish up to 1/4 or 1/3 throttle, but ran great above that. It seemed heavy in turns and at low speed so I brought it in a put it on the trailer. I had intended to tweek the low speed needle a bit, but discovered it had quite a bit of water in the bottom. It ended up being that one of the welch plugs on the exhaust pipe had a hole in it. That ended our day of riding. I had the welch plug repaired and the pipe will be going back on in a day or two.




My wife hates the stock decals and has been using the down time to remove them. Eventually, we'll start adding performance mods, but for now, we'll settle for stock and dependable.

 

[Wayfaring]

Went to Lake Havasu to do another shakedown after getting the bad welsh plug welded. I also had a slight hesitation from idle to WOT on the first time out, so I set the low speed needles to 1 1/8 turn out. I'm running with just the stock arrestor and no airbox and this setting ran much better.

I ran into two issues. First, it's very hard to restart even though it's warmed up. It will eventually start after cranking a while at full throttle. There is no vacuum sound when the gas cap is open either, so I'm thinking I may have an air leak in the new fuel lines. I had gone the zip tie route when I replaced the fuel lines. I also had found one of the RAVE valves had it bolts ready to fall out. Put a second zip tie and some of the fuel lines and tightened the rave bolts. Started a little better, but I don't think it's where it needs to be yet.

The second issue was a top speed of 47 mph on a GPS app for my phone. Reading some other threads here pointed me toward the water regulator on the water box. I opened it up and sure enough the spring is broken and there is a hole in the bellow from the rusted lower clamp. I found the right bellow online, but had no joy finding a spring for the waterbox RAVE. Parts diagrams show a different part number from the cylinder RAVE valves, so I assume it's not the same. If I can't get the right spring, then I'll need to look at replacing the whole water regulator.

 

[Matt Braley]

Love this write up it sounds like the story of my life. I've saved over a hundred of them.

You need new Mikuni brand needle and seats. Yours seep fuel and it's causing the hot hard start issue. For now turn the fuel off when you stop and then back on after you fire it up.

That spring is different from rave springs it's quite a bit stiffer. If you don't find a good one for under 20 shipped hit me up and I'll send you one(I have to leave work and go stand in the Post Office every time).

I have the largest stash of aftermarket "go fast" parts for the 96XP's going. Feel free to check prices and availability any time.

 

[Grnbeano]

I have that same hard warm start issue and the guru of 2 strokes here in Dallas is Dale's Jet Sports in Sachse

 

[Wayfaring]

Thanks for the tips Matt! I haven't replaced the needle and seats yet, so that sounds logical. I may hit you up on that spring. I'll let you know!

We have a laundry list of "go fast" items to add, but that is probably a few months off.

 

[Matt Braley]

Sounds good. I buy old X4 racers and have them shipped in. I have every brand of aftermarket pipe, most carbs, sponsons, grates, etc.

Chris Marone is a great guy and one of the best talents in the game. You guys are lucky to know him, you'll never get any "fake news" out of him lol.

I may have heard of your wife because I've studied women racers. I've actually had Mary Ann Sexton's boat and pieces of one of Karine Patrel's skis. Terri Popiez (of poppy covers) used to have another last name back then but she was on the Commercial Sewing team. I copied their "zebra" look on a ski I used to have. I have all the old magazines that I read periodically so I'm more up on the mid 90's racing scene than today's. My favorite tuner, Bo Dupriest, used to tune for Karine and Kelly Kulpril.