winterize 2008 c180 intercooler

[rotinaj]

I have a question on winterizing the challenger 180...The manual says to pull 2 hoses off the front of the intercooler in order to drain water then remove a hose from the back and put antifreeze in it. How critical is it that the two hoses from the front get removed and drained? I am having difficulty getting to them and one of them does not have a reuseable clamp. Is there a reason why there is a non-reuseable clamp on one hose? I never knew there was such a thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Is there anywhere else that needs anti-freeze?

 

[seadoo_mike]

those hoses should be drained as a precaution, they just want to make sure there is no condensation in those hoses, so no water can enter the motor when ready to run, they are just covering there butt's. Those clamps come off pretty easy with a screwdriver, you would just need to put a nut driver hose clamp back on, so they can be taken on and off easier. After I flush antifreeze through my system with a sump pump (with engine running) by the way, doing it that way you will get antifreeze up into the intercooler, I will pull the whole intercooler out and store it in a dry place, I know it is not easy to get at, the back 2 hose clamps are harder to get to, but I make it happen, that is just what I do. If you are storing the boat where temp's are going to be freezing and below, then you need to run antifreeze in the exhaust system, like I mentioned earlier, can be done with the same procedure as fresh water flushing at the flushing connector on the jet pump, but using about 3 gallons of straight non toxic antifreeze from a bucket with a sump pump.

 

[James.Moon]

those hoses should be drained as a precaution, they just want to make sure there is no condensation in those hoses, so no water can enter the motor when ready to run, they are just covering there butt's. Those clamps come off pretty easy with a screwdriver, you would just need to put a nut driver hose clamp back on, so they can be taken on and off easier. After I flush antifreeze through my system with a sump pump (with engine running) by the way, doing it that way you will get antifreeze up into the intercooler, I will pull the whole intercooler out and store it in a dry place, I know it is not easy to get at, the back 2 hose clamps are harder to get to, but I make it happen, that is just what I do. If you are storing the boat where temp's are going to be freezing and below, then you need to run antifreeze in the exhaust system, like I mentioned earlier, can be done with the same procedure as fresh water flushing at the flushing connector on the jet pump, but using about 3 gallons of straight non toxic antifreeze from a bucket with a sump pump.

My 2009 180SE manual makes no mention of antifreeze for winterizing at all. It just calls for intercooler draining, exhaust system flushing and exhaust sytem and intercooler protection by pressurized air into the connector on the jet pump support. Am I or BRP missing something here?

 

[rotinaj]

Where is the exhaust flusing port? it looks like it is supposed to be next to the jet output but I do not see it.

 

[seadoo_mike]

manual does not say anything about using antifreeze, but it is just fail safe protection for area's that get below freezing, if you lived in a area that stayed above freezing temperature's then you would be fine not using antifreeze, but I would still blow out the line with compressed air. As far as blowing out with compressed air, I don't know if I would trust that totally with the temperatures we get here in Pennsylvania, someone on the forum had a thread about just using the compressed air and not the antifreeze, he had said that he felt that he removed all the water out with compressed air and he was just going to go with that.

 

[seadoo_mike]

I think the 08' jet pump support is the same as my 09', here is a pic with the flushing port at the top left corner of the jet pump support, take a look in that area, it is a standard female hose fitting

 

[James.Moon]

Where is the exhaust flushing port? it looks like it is supposed to be next to the jet output but I do not see it.

The pic submitted by Seadoo_Mike is correct for my 2009 Port is top left. Funny thing - the owner's manual shows it top right which is definitely not correct.
I love manuals, but hate it when the are incorrect or not explanatory enough. I can't wait until we have the full shop manual - it should be better.

Re. the anti-freeze or not question - it is hard to believe BRP would skip mentioning anti-freeze if required for a boat from a Canadian dealer-after all Bombardier is a Canadian company and there is absolutely no where in this country that it doesn't freeze in the winter.

On the other hand I have more than one reason to distrust the manual.

 

[916er]

Hello,

I just winterized my 180 Challenger (2009) by pumping antifreeze through the system with a pump and with the engine not running. I then blew compressed air until the water stopped coming out. Is this sufficient or should I have had the boat running?

Thanks

 

[madbare]

This is an interesting discussion and I was the one who started the thread about blowing out the lines per my discussion with the dealer. I noticed that someone said that their 2009 manual states to blow out the lines and nothing about antifreeze. I have an 08 Islandia and the manual states to drain the IC and add antifreeze, but when I looked in the 09 Islandia manual it states to blow out the line with 100psi of air. I can confirm, again, this is a good procedure. The picture above is where I hooked my adapter to and blew out the lines. I took out each IC to see if there was any water left and there was nothing but a couple drips. I honestly think this is a perfectly safe alternative, and easier, to adding antifreeze. In the end, do what you think is safe for your boat, but I am perfectly satisified with this alternative procedure.

 

[seadoo_mike]

916er, when hooking up to the flush port whether using water or antifreeze you should alway's run the motor, you risk pushing fluid into the engine, the motor is ran to create exhaust pressure and keep fluid from entering the motor, you should alway's start motor first then start your flushing, turn off your flushing then run motor for a few seconds then shut off motor.

 

[James.Moon]

916er, when hooking up to the flush port whether using water or antifreeze you should alway's run the motor, you risk pushing fluid into the engine, the motor is ran to create exhaust pressure and keep fluid from entering the motor, you should alway's start motor first then start your flushing, turn off your flushing then run motor for a few seconds then shut off motor.

916er
Above is correct - I suggest you now run the motor briefy to expel anything that may have got back into the engine. In future: motor on first, then water tap on to flush,then after flushing, water tap off, then motor off.
I am going with air pressure drain only per BRP manual for my 2009 180SE 255HP. Why mess with antifreeze when BRP is OK to winterize without it?

 

[Summit08]

916er
Above is correct - I suggest you now run the motor briefy to expel anything that may have got back into the engine. In future: motor on first, then water tap on to flush,then after flushing, water tap off, then motor off.
I am going with air pressure drain only per BRP manual for my 2009 180SE 255HP. Why mess with antifreeze when BRP is OK to winterize without it?

James,
i have a 2010 challenger 180 250hp SCIC. any idea where i can get an owners manual for future reference. now i am looking for specific instructions on winterizing. btw, i'm from deadmonton so definitely need to get on this.
thanks in advance for any help

Ron

 

[James.Moon]

James,
i have a 2010 challenger 180 250hp SCIC. any idea where i can get an owners manual for future reference. now i am looking for specific instructions on winterizing. btw, i'm from deadmonton so definitely need to get on this.
thanks in advance for any help

Ron

Do you mean the Owner's Manual/Operator's Guide? It should have come with the boat and it should include the storage/winterizing info (mine for the 2009 180SE 255HP does. The dealer should include it. I have lived in Deadmonton and even colder places(Winterpeg), so the time is nigh for winterizing. I have mine in the garage here in Calgary until I get the winterizing done.

If you mean the shop manual that shows all systems & repair info that is a different story. Some are posted here for premium members but it only seems for older models. There are some older ones that include good 4Tec engine info, however one never knows what little things may have changed for more recent models.

Hope this helps. Go Oilers!

 

[Summit08]

i do have the operators guide, i'm looking for the shop manual, it is not listed here in the forum. any idea where to get it?

gonna be cold this weekend, i have mine in the garage right now as well, but it cant stay there forever.

thanks,

 

[James.Moon]

i do have the operators guide, i'm looking for the shop manual, it is not listed here in the forum. any idea where to get it?

gonna be cold this weekend, i have mine in the garage right now as well, but it cant stay there forever.

thanks,

No, I don't know where to get the shop manual unless you can buy it from BRP. I haven't inquired as I am hoping it will be available for my boat before it starts to need out of warranty repairs.

I do know where to get vehicle manuals for a great price - at ALLDATAdiy.com - Chrysler quoted me $360 for the manual for my 300C - I got a pdf copy downloaded from ALLDATAdiy for $12.50!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Air...

Yes, James Moon is correct. All you are suppose to do to winterize the intercooler is, blow it out with compressed air.

You can start the motor a couple times without the water hose connected to blow out any remaining water left in your tuned pipe, but you won't get it all out. Doesn't matter. You've got to have enough water build up to be able to expand when freezing before it can crack any metal parts to your motor.

Blow out the intercooler.... your done. There is no need to put any antifreeze in your open loop.......:cheers:

 

[James.Moon]

i do have the operators guide, i'm looking for the shop manual, it is not listed here in the forum. any idea where to get it?

gonna be cold this weekend, i have mine in the garage right now as well, but it cant stay there forever.

thanks,

For Premium members there is a 2006 Sportster & Challenger manual posted.
I expect it is very close to the newer 180s. The storage procedures have been modified somewhat with your operator's manual being more current in that respect.

Good luck.

 

[06challenger]

i got a question!

so i have an 06challenger se, so i never heard anything about compressed ait before! is this something i can do with my boat? and if so, how do i do it? i have a compressor and all, but do i just blow air into the flush port??? im just not sure how i want to do it this year! last year i did the antifreez in all the hoses like the manual said! and it just seemed like alot of work... compressed air sounds like a quick and easy way! esp for living in Charleston SC. well thanks for your help!

 

[truthbetold]

so i have an 06challenger se, so i never heard anything about compressed ait before! is this something i can do with my boat? and if so, how do i do it? i have a compressor and all, but do i just blow air into the flush port??? im just not sure how i want to do it this year! last year i did the antifreez in all the hoses like the manual said! and it just seemed like alot of work... compressed air sounds like a quick and easy way! esp for living in Charleston SC. well thanks for your help!

I have a 155 HP 4-tech sportster and would also like to know if its ok to go with the compressed air method. If so, should the compressed air be held tightly to the female hose connection (flush port) in the rear? Should it be held until no more water is observed coming out? Seems this is a much simpler way to go and would love to do it instead of the antifreeze method.

 

[James.Moon]

so i have an 06challenger se, so i never heard anything about compressed ait before! is this something i can do with my boat? and if so, how do i do it? i have a compressor and all, but do i just blow air into the flush port??? im just not sure how i want to do it this year! last year i did the antifreez in all the hoses like the manual said! and it just seemed like alot of work... compressed air sounds like a quick and easy way! esp for living in Charleston SC. well thanks for your help!

The winterizing instructions for the 2006 and 2009 definitely differ insamuch as the 2006 calls for antifreeze in the intercooler hoses and the exhaust manifold but the 2009 just calls for intercooler draining (255HP models) and compressed air blowout via the flushing connector.

My theory is that BRP decided the antifreeze method was overkill and a pain for us owners so they changed the procedure. I am a first year owner so I am no expert and this theory could be wrong. I am happy my 2009 manual only calls for the compressed air method. You have to decide for yourself or check it out with a dealer or one of the more experienced members. In my case I am on firmer ground re. the warranty if freezing busts something.

The 4 tec engine looks like the same animal to me, but I am not so sure about the intercooler.

I expect to do mine this weekend. I may leave it in the garage another week or two then blow it again.

Hope this helps

 

[ruby]

what is the small hose for that comes off intercooler and goes to exhaust outlet its on the air side and looks to me like its bleeding off pressure from supercharger

 

[seadoo_mike]

that small hose in the front of the intercooler is actually on the water side, I believe it is for vent or bleed off you could say, so the water side doesn't get air locked.

 

[James.Moon]

The winterizing instructions for the 2006 and 2009 definitely differ insamuch as the 2006 calls for antifreeze in the intercooler hoses and the exhaust manifold but the 2009 just calls for intercooler draining (255HP models) and compressed air blowout via the flushing connector.

My theory is that BRP decided the antifreeze method was overkill and a pain for us owners so they changed the procedure. I am a first year owner so I am no expert and this theory could be wrong. I am happy my 2009 manual only calls for the compressed air method. You have to decide for yourself or check it out with a dealer or one of the more experienced members. In my case I am on firmer ground re. the warranty if freezing busts something.

The 4 tec engine looks like the same animal to me, but I am not so sure about the intercooler.


I have just looked at a 2006-15 Service Bulletin in the 2006 manual. I now understand the difference between the 2006 and 2009 180Se requirements to winterize the intercooler and exhaust manifold. The 2009 is indeed self draining due to the greater height of the intercooler. The bulletin shows a picture of the 2006 intercooler and it is basically at the same height as the manifold so I can see both would have water pockets that won't drain.

I did mine (2009) this weekend by the compressed air method for the water side of the exhaust and intercooler. I removed the air hoses from the air side of intercooler and did get a small trickle of condensation water when tipping it down. With both air outlets straight down I got nothing but holding it such that one air outlet corner was down some water came out. Had to put one foot in beside the motor to get at the hose clamps as the intercooler is at the top very back of the engine compartment.

For info of all. Those that were using antifreeze methods are no doubt correct for their particular model.

 

[ruby]

thanks for the response that makes sense to me it just looks like its in the air side but i could not see a reason for it PS i did not have any water in cooler and really cant see how any would stay in there when engine is running it would be sucked in and burned up

 

[James.Moon]

thanks for the response that makes sense to me it just looks like its in the air side but i could not see a reason for it PS i did not have any water in cooler and really cant see how any would stay in there when engine is running it would be sucked in and burned up

I believe the winterizing procedure is to remove any water due to possible water condensation built up (I expect when sitting - as you say the air should by flying thru at a rapid rate when running). The little trickle I got from mine would probably not have caused any freezing damage. The procedure may be overkill but I am glad I checked and drained it anyway.