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What would you do?
- Thread starter b15philly
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I pick option #3...buy a jet boat...oops sorry not an option...:ack: :rofl:
Karl
Karl
Double trailer?
I just could not stand it, I have to get into this one. I don't think the trailer should be a deciding factor on your choice of ski. What your looking for performance wise and body style is what causes most people to make that choice. The other idea is, cost. The XP is worth more than the SPX. So, for the right price, you could find a dual trailer and buy the XP and value wise, come out ahead on the deal.
The SPX, and this is just my opinion, is not the sharpest looking ski out there. The curb appeal of my 97 GTX sitting beside the SPX is much better. I bet I'd get more buyers on the GTX than the SPX. Also, the SPX is equipped with the smaller horsepower 787cc.
The XP is a well known and a much sought after ski than any others of that era. Of course today, its the RXP and RXT. But look at the hull design and performance of the XP. It's twice as sharp, twice as fast and will out perform the SPX in every benchmark, powered by the larger 951cc. Sitting the two side by side, I think 99% would choose the XP in a heart beat.
I voted for the XP soley on which ski is the best buy for the money. I can't see buying a ski, that your gonna want to have fun on, by what kind of trailer you got. Thats like choosing a ski soley on color, not performance stats.
If you were to ride both these skis, I promise after your ride, you would pick the XP without even thinking about the SPX again.:cheers:
I just could not stand it, I have to get into this one. I don't think the trailer should be a deciding factor on your choice of ski. What your looking for performance wise and body style is what causes most people to make that choice. The other idea is, cost. The XP is worth more than the SPX. So, for the right price, you could find a dual trailer and buy the XP and value wise, come out ahead on the deal.
The SPX, and this is just my opinion, is not the sharpest looking ski out there. The curb appeal of my 97 GTX sitting beside the SPX is much better. I bet I'd get more buyers on the GTX than the SPX. Also, the SPX is equipped with the smaller horsepower 787cc.
The XP is a well known and a much sought after ski than any others of that era. Of course today, its the RXP and RXT. But look at the hull design and performance of the XP. It's twice as sharp, twice as fast and will out perform the SPX in every benchmark, powered by the larger 951cc. Sitting the two side by side, I think 99% would choose the XP in a heart beat.
I voted for the XP soley on which ski is the best buy for the money. I can't see buying a ski, that your gonna want to have fun on, by what kind of trailer you got. Thats like choosing a ski soley on color, not performance stats.
If you were to ride both these skis, I promise after your ride, you would pick the XP without even thinking about the SPX again.:cheers:
hitman782
New Member
I liked snipes write up, and i have to agree, buying a ski for the trailer it comes with is kinda crappy, you wont get what you really want, a good ski.
Try this option, talk to the guy selling the 1 ski with the twin trailer, ask him if he would trade/sell you the twin trailer for your single and some cash. doesnt hurt to ask.
Try this option, talk to the guy selling the 1 ski with the twin trailer, ask him if he would trade/sell you the twin trailer for your single and some cash. doesnt hurt to ask.
b15philly
New Member
Ya I agree with you snipe, I do love the looks of the XP a lot more than the SPX and would like to experience the 951 motor and what it is capable of. I know I can find a double trailer out their for pretty cheep. I was told that the 99 SPX is a hard to come by ski? This I was not sure of but I think the XP is going to be my choice. I am going to take a look at it this Saturday. Thanks for everyone's comments and I'll let you know what happens:cheers: Oh, one more question what do you think would be considered a "good price" say if its in good condition it has 103 original hours in good working condition no major problems. Thanks
Price?....
I think the XP is the better choice of the two. I believe as for riding it, you'd be much happier with the XP. The SPX and the reason they are hard to come by? That's because at that age, no one has them anymore. They weren't that great a model or hull. The demand for the SPX is very low, so I doubt you'd find many of them still around. That's probably why he said they are hard to come by.
Starting price for the XP? This is hard because I've made this point so many times. The price is always affected by your geographical location. Where you would pay $100 dollars for something in Connecticut or New York, I would pay $25 dollars for that same item in Alabama.
You can google Kelly's blue book to get an idea. When you do this, they ask you for your zip code. This is how they know to adjust pricing for your location. Here, with my zip code, it said a dealer could start with an asking price of $3000 bucks. Now, keep in mind, when you look at their price, this is a dealers retail price. Your buying from an individual, that's less. Anything you find wrong, is a deduction (seams of the seat coming apart, sun oxidation, parts missing or broken, ...things like that.
I would almost agree with Kelly's. I bought my 97 GTX this past spring and paid $2200. It was in mint condition, like it was sitting on the show room floor. Not a blemish on it. So, if this is the more popular XP, with the larger 951 engine, I'd say a good starting price, that is a fair start, should be about $2700 or $2800. That way, you'll leave yourself some haggle room. I don't think I'd pay any more than $3000 or slightly above, depending on the condition.
Don't get too excited in the buy. Remain focused on what your about to do. This is a nice ski. Your excited. You think it looks sharp. The guy selling it is going to talk it up. ......DON'T!... get lost in that excitment. No matter how good he says it runs, you do not buy it without the minimum of a compression test. If you do not do anything else at all, you test the cylinders and pistons conditions. That's like using a stethoscope. You need to know that you got a good, workable motor from the get-go. You might have to change pump oil or change plugs but make sure you have good and even compression. Make sure you read the spark plugs, to make sure they both have an even burn, not running too lean. If he's put new plugs in it, ask him if he has the old ones. Check that all gages work and read properly. Check the VTS, make sure it works..... things like that.
Body language. When you start enquiring about the condition of the ski, watch his body language. If he knows something is wrong with it and see's your somewhat a mechanic, who knows what to look for, he's liable to show some nervousness. If he turns your request down to do the compression test, he's hiding something, don't buy it.
Before you jump off the deep end, if you have any questions about anything I've said, please post or PM me. I (along with many others) know what it's like to get excited about a new purchase. You've got friends here that want to help balance that excitment with logic so you aren't spending a thosand dollars right after you buy it in repairs.
Take your time, enjoy the purchase. Need help, give us all a holler. I dont' think anyone here is short on opinions.........:cheers:
I think the XP is the better choice of the two. I believe as for riding it, you'd be much happier with the XP. The SPX and the reason they are hard to come by? That's because at that age, no one has them anymore. They weren't that great a model or hull. The demand for the SPX is very low, so I doubt you'd find many of them still around. That's probably why he said they are hard to come by.
Starting price for the XP? This is hard because I've made this point so many times. The price is always affected by your geographical location. Where you would pay $100 dollars for something in Connecticut or New York, I would pay $25 dollars for that same item in Alabama.
You can google Kelly's blue book to get an idea. When you do this, they ask you for your zip code. This is how they know to adjust pricing for your location. Here, with my zip code, it said a dealer could start with an asking price of $3000 bucks. Now, keep in mind, when you look at their price, this is a dealers retail price. Your buying from an individual, that's less. Anything you find wrong, is a deduction (seams of the seat coming apart, sun oxidation, parts missing or broken, ...things like that.
I would almost agree with Kelly's. I bought my 97 GTX this past spring and paid $2200. It was in mint condition, like it was sitting on the show room floor. Not a blemish on it. So, if this is the more popular XP, with the larger 951 engine, I'd say a good starting price, that is a fair start, should be about $2700 or $2800. That way, you'll leave yourself some haggle room. I don't think I'd pay any more than $3000 or slightly above, depending on the condition.
Don't get too excited in the buy. Remain focused on what your about to do. This is a nice ski. Your excited. You think it looks sharp. The guy selling it is going to talk it up. ......DON'T!... get lost in that excitment. No matter how good he says it runs, you do not buy it without the minimum of a compression test. If you do not do anything else at all, you test the cylinders and pistons conditions. That's like using a stethoscope. You need to know that you got a good, workable motor from the get-go. You might have to change pump oil or change plugs but make sure you have good and even compression. Make sure you read the spark plugs, to make sure they both have an even burn, not running too lean. If he's put new plugs in it, ask him if he has the old ones. Check that all gages work and read properly. Check the VTS, make sure it works..... things like that.
Body language. When you start enquiring about the condition of the ski, watch his body language. If he knows something is wrong with it and see's your somewhat a mechanic, who knows what to look for, he's liable to show some nervousness. If he turns your request down to do the compression test, he's hiding something, don't buy it.
Before you jump off the deep end, if you have any questions about anything I've said, please post or PM me. I (along with many others) know what it's like to get excited about a new purchase. You've got friends here that want to help balance that excitment with logic so you aren't spending a thosand dollars right after you buy it in repairs.
Take your time, enjoy the purchase. Need help, give us all a holler. I dont' think anyone here is short on opinions.........:cheers:
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Here is the correct info on a compression test. It covers all the basics.
Go to like Auto Zone to buy one...like $25.00 or so.To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
Karl
Go to like Auto Zone to buy one...like $25.00 or so.To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
Karl
b15philly
New Member
Ok I just want to make sure of two things, I take the plug caps and put them on the bolts that hold the cover on? Like in this photo they would go on the two bolts under the miller logo?
Also I am doing this one plug at a time leave one spark plug in with the cap on it and the other off and on a ground?
If you read my post it tells you what to do...stock seadoo engines have grounding posts that allow you to put the spark plug caps on them to complete the ignition circuit. The picture doesn't show the grounding posts...if that's the case, plut the spark plugs back in the caps and allow them to ground and spark on the cylinder head. DO NOT just let the caps dangle while doing the compression test they need to be grounded to metal via the spark plugs. If you don't see the spark plug sparking while the engine is turning over it isn't getting a connection to ground.
Karl
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Stock?....
Uh Karl, it's kinda obvious that his motor is not stock.
The purpose of using a grounding lug on while doing maintenance is so you can discharge the coil so you don't build up voltage. If it comes right down to it, you can take the spark plugs, put them back into your plug boots once they are removed, then lay them down along side the engine block somewhere. This will allow your coil to discharge it's voltage.
Nice looking Miller head cover!.....
Ok I just want to make sure of two things, I take the plug caps and put them on the bolts that hold the cover on? Like in this photo they would go on the two bolts under the miller logo?Also I am doing this one plug at a time leave one spark plug in with the cap on it and the other off and on a ground?
Uh Karl, it's kinda obvious that his motor is not stock.
The purpose of using a grounding lug on while doing maintenance is so you can discharge the coil so you don't build up voltage. If it comes right down to it, you can take the spark plugs, put them back into your plug boots once they are removed, then lay them down along side the engine block somewhere. This will allow your coil to discharge it's voltage.
Nice looking Miller head cover!.....
b15philly
New Member
So I went and looked at the ski today, It was in o condition, I did a compression test was 125 and 130 so I believe that is and ok compression Needs new foot pads probably a new finger throttle(can anyone give me a price on what an after market finger throttle would cost) , new front nose peace and a good cleaning but if I can get a good enough deal I think I will take it.
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