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What is this god awful noise? (See video)

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96spxpos

96spxpos

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Well, first thing I learned today was my alarm/sensor is going off at a max temp of 166, so after 2 out of 3 sensors were bad, the 3rd one busted inside the head. Issue resolved. (Admin, feel free to close my other thread)

Second thing I learned:
Looks like I will be pulling the pump off of this ski, I was on my last lap and as I was about to shut the ski off while idling in, I heard a bit of rattle, but chalked it up to a combo of the seadoo rattle and a little sea doo container I had put inside the hull with my temp gun in it rattling. I took the container out, ski started again with an awful rattle. I pulled it out immediately, went to start it and it did it again, only louder. I got it home, checked the pump, all clear, impeller clear, intake grate clear, the carrier setup looks straight, no torquing, no rips in boot, but I only wanted to run it one more time quickly for you guys to see. Trust me, I didn't want to run it that long, my hand slipped when I went to shut it off, so I just grabbed the lanyard. Hard to take a video and be up front to shut off at same time.

So, knowing that this ski (95 HX) has this secondary drive shaft setup kinda like the newer XP's, I'm scared to even tear into this thing. If impeller looks good, motor mounts didn't bust/etc.. What would you guys assume this to be? I'm at the point of just taking it in somewhere. Any ideas?

https://youtu.be/k-4iL4spjQQ
 
Can you pull the pump and disconect the drive shatf from the pto and fire it up again. It would halp you narrow down where it is.
 
Yes I'm going to do that on Friday. I'm just hoping I don't have to remove the motor. That's why I was curious if anyone has heard this before
 
I'm not bringing my skis but I can drop by and help you take a look at it that afternoon.
 
The 95' HX uses a splined midshaft to the PTO that was well known to strip out and destroy the driveshaft and the PTO. The other end uses a rubber coupler but the material was too soft and destroys the coupler fingers too. The 96' and 97' went to a coupler at the PTO and rear of the mid shaft but again the ruber material was too soft and destroyed the coupler fingers. My 96' had the origional white ruber coupler and took out the PTO and midshaft prior to me buying it.

The 1996 up is the better design but they are getting super hard to find and expensive.

So after that long story it could be your midshaft.
 
mikidymac said:
The 95' HX uses a splined midshaft to the PTO that was well known to strip out and destroy the driveshaft and the PTO. The other end uses a rubber coupler but the material was too soft and destroys the coupler fingers too. The 96' and 97' went to a coupler at the PTO and rear of the mid shaft but again the ruber material was too soft and destroyed the coupler fingers. My 96' had the origional white ruber coupler and took out the PTO and midshaft prior to me buying it.

The 1996 up is the better design but they are getting super hard to find and expensive.

So after that long story it could be your midshaft.
Click to expand...

Yeppity yep. My HX was converted to the 96+ shafts and PTO, but I'll guess it's the finger coupling just on the other side of the carrier bearing. Oh, and an alignment tool is a must, not a cobbled home brew one either. That has to be 110% legit alignment on that mid shaft. Very easy with the seadoo alignment tool.



#1, 2 and 8 are the carrier. Once you loosen the screws around the carrier you can pivot and go in all radial directions for perfect alignment


But, I'll bet #23 is MIA on the rear of the mid shaft #22 goes on the end of the driveshaft to help remove radial play from the rear driveshaft into the coupler, again, a very important piece. They don't sell the one for the HX anymore IIRC, but.....the one for the 97 XP will fit, I bought 4 when I did mine. Only used one but the rest are for my inventory, I might have a good clean used bushing if you need one, problem is finding it.

Or here is one cheaper than me shipping it to you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sea-Doo...ash=item3d1e5ef394:g:HOwAAOSw-KFXcxjJ&vxp=mtr

There are MINT couplers on ebay for $18 shipped 272000046 Dude is a great seller and sells CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN parts. I have bought a bunch of stuff from him
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-DRIV...ash=item3d12d333f4:g:qsMAAOSwG-1W0Lzu&vxp=mtr

New finger couplers for $20 shipped on the bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Sea...ash=item3f4f1ec27b:g:b1AAAOSw-4BXYhRL&vxp=mtr


200.jpg
 
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Ok Dan, so do you think it's the FIRST finger coupler up by the pto or the second one close to the driveshaft? I noticed there's 2 #23's
 
If yours hasn't been converted your pto is splined. Pull the cover and see is it finger style or splined at the pto
 
I'll look at it tomorrow and let you guys know. Once I take all that stuff off, if it's opened up already, I'm kind of thinking of getting all new plastic/wearable parts so it'll be fresh again for a while. I'm sure all that stuff is probably worn anyway. I'm just hoping the driveshaft didn't bend or that I've damaged any of the splines
 
[MENTION=73220]1of500[/MENTION] if you're here on vacay I don't wanna sap it with another broken ski. If I get into a serious jam I'll let you know. Unless you're looking for an "escape plan", feel free to come by
 
Racer, for those of us new to the HX I see there are three colors of the coupler, White is the junk first gen that is an issue but are the yellow and red the same?
 
Grab the shaft under the rear hatch and turn back and fourth with your hand listen to see if the rubber thing is gone you would hear metal to metal
 
ok, I'm going to get into this tomorrow. I've got some decisions to make... Even if I were to convert to the newer style, the PTO ITSELF needs to get replaced, correct? its not just a splined adapter that has the coupler on the other end? which means the motor would need to be pulled. If I decide to go with the motor to be pulled, then I might as well have the stealership replace my tank recall...so if they're pulling the motor anyway and will have to realign it anyway, I would just consider them doing the repair since they need to reassemble anyway. I'm wondering if since they'd be doing it "anyway", if I were to buy the parts, if they'd just slap them in and just charge me a minimal charge to swap out the PTO. Or, should I just go ahead and go with the factory repair myself?

I have a feeling that if I start taking it apart just to "look at it", they may have an issue with reassembling the ski fully when I took it in there somewhat unassembled. What are your thoughts on this guys?
 
Ok, so, you guys were right. It was that star fingered rubber spacer. Funny, a few weeks ago, I found one single, lone piece of that in the back of the hull. Had NO idea what it was. So it looks like it was already compromised and I still got a few rides out of it.. Also, the pump end of the driveshaft had the rubber plug spacer in it, but the pto one didn't. I have yet to get all the way inside the hole, but I stuck my finger all the way in and didn't feel it.. So, it's either stuck in there, got disintegrated, or was never put in at all.
Which could've caused some of this problem.. The white bushing for the end of the driveshaft is still together and in one piece..
So, I'll be getting more into it this week.

Secondly, when I took the exhaust can off, I heard this rattling noise. Shook the hell out of it and used a snake with a magnet and everything and couldn't get it out. It's not a hose clamp, as they're all accounted for (at least none of the current hose clamps), does anyone have an idea of what it is? Like is there some internal metal piece that could've broken off? Also, any other suggestions on how to try and get it out, or should I buy a new exhaust?
https://youtu.be/hDGXx9rvE8I

Thanks!

Thanks guys!
 
Ok well I'm thinking of just cutting this thing open and buying a new one. There must be different chambers in this water box that once this piece got lodged in there, it just won't come out... I'm still trying.. Do you guys think it's ok like maybe it's just a piece of baffle or packing? Or should I get a new water box?

Also, does the HX have/need a neoprene seal on the pump? Bc there's not one there. I looked on the parts manual in both the pump section and body section as well as the propulsion section, and it doesn't show one for the HX, but I don't know if the manuals show one for other skis either. Maybe it's just common practice to install one. Although, the pump shoe has a sort of plastic rubbery texture where the pump sits, so maybe that seals the pump adequately? Thoughts guys?
 
Get a used water box I guess, they're cheap, hx's get parted all the time. The rubber couplers just old and break down, also misalignment prematurely wears them out
 
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