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What can I do to make my boat faster

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The fuel pressure likely has to be calibrated for more fuel as well since you're pumping more air, your motor is going to need more fuel to compensate and avoid leaning out I'm afraid.

Consult those guys who sold you the supercharger and intercooler, they probably know what must be done to keep from roasting pistons, hopefully they know.
 
So your saying the stock injectors will not work too? If i put thr 42 lbs back on will i need to have the computer calibrated
 
No the computer will compensate for the 42lb. There is a learning curve for a little and is likely to run a little goofy till it adjusts for them. Should t be very long at all. However the 42lb injectors will not be enough if you have an external intercooler on the 215. At this point you now require a rising rate fuel pressure regulator such as this one :

http://www.pwcmuscle.com/riva-fuel-pressure-regulator-kit-sea-doo-08.html

If you would have kept the stock intercooler you would have been OK with just the X charger and injectors. The bigger more efficient intercooler will feed it cooler denser air which requires more fuel than the 42lb injectors alone can deliver. If you want to be 100% safe the regulator is a must or replace the intercooler with your stock one until you're ready to spend the extra cash on a regulator.
 
I expect KK4304 is providing good advice and certainly worthy of consideration b/c the fuel system isn't calibrated for what you're attempting, more air means you're going to need more fuel and more fuel most definitely needs larger injectors and quite possibly fuel pressure regulator and even in some cases larger volume fuel pump. This is standard approach for these kind of mods, nitrous oxide injection also qualifies.

So yeah, make sure your new HO setup is properly configured to avoid roasting pistons b/c it sounds like that's what's about to happen if it's not done right.
 
OK 42 lbs injectors going back on boat, thanks everyone for all the good info. I'm a car guy not really a boat guy :thumbsup:
 
RENEDUCE said:
OK 42 lbs injectors going back on boat, thanks everyone for all the good info. I'm a car guy not really a boat guy :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

To be honest, that's where I started myself. I was a turbo guy and still am. All this SC stuff is new to me still. A lot of car stuff translates over when it comes to forced induction though other than how the SC is driven.
 
The thing to remember about a marine engine is they're designed to run under severe load conditions, there are no coasting periods for cool off and they're pumping more HP (heat!) at higher RPM most of their life for long periods, especially WOT.
 
RENEDUCE said:
OK 42 lbs injectors going back on boat, thanks everyone for all the good info. I'm a car guy not really a boat guy :thumbsup:
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If you are doing the work your self fine, if not you should do that your self. It's a super easy swap. I had replaced my injectors. Take the cover off, the fuel rail is right there. Unbolt the rail and pull it out of the intakes. The injectors will come with the rail. Use some plastic to capture the gas that will leak as you pull the injectors. Wiggle them out slowly as the rail does have pressure on it. Wear gloves and goggles. Then swap them and bolt the rail down and you are done.
 
Save your engine, save your money ... get one of these.

jato.jpg

You should only need one ... and no need to post results, we will read about it somewhere.

Rod
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Umm, that photo kinda looks like a Boeing aircraft latrine holding tank?
Click to expand...

guess I should have shown a small group of these in actual use ... on a B47
common name was JATO (jet-assisted take-off) even tho they are rockets
 

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I put the 42 lbs ones back in going to the river this weekend, but not going to push it to much I haven't installed the rising rate fuel pressure regulator yet. I messed up and ordered the wrong one!
 
I just got my boat out of the water. Been cleaning the evil gunk off in between my many projects. BTW how did the fuel injector swap go? And you got your new gauge on your fuel rail? Just looking for an update.
 
Yeah I changed the injectors put it in the water last weekend didn't run it hard because I'm waiting for my fuel regulator to come in. It ran good I can tell it wants to go but with the Gen 3 intercooler I was advised not to push it.
BLACK TRUCK.JPG
 
RENEDUCE said:
Yeah I changed the injectors put it in the water last weekend didn't run it hard because I'm waiting for my fuel regulator to come in. It ran good I can tell it wants to go but with the Gen 3 intercooler I was advised not to push it.
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I just ordered my new impeller. I will have to replace the grate on mine. Mine was shredded by flooding junk when the floods came. This time my boat is going on top of a boat lift instead of being left in the water.

So did you finally get your boat out and open it up? Did you notice any improvement?
 
Yeah it ran great big big difference! I had an issue with one of the injectors, it got stuck open but I fixed it already. Money well spent!
 
RENEDUCE said:
I have a 2008 180 challenger with a rotex 215 engine. I love the boat but need more power, can someone tell me if I can purchase something to increase horse power. thanks
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See my reply today re: thru the hull exhaust on150 speedster mods. thru the hull exhaust, X charger, 4" Fizzle air intake to cold air vent, Solas Concord R impeller, 2.5 LB. Earth X lithium battery replaced 23 lb. OEM, Riva catch can, etc.
Ron
 
Can't read plugs on 4 stroke with injection

Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I tend to agree the computer will probably need time to relearn the idle and adding more air with a larger volume charger will tend to make it run leaner, probably burn a piston that way.

I'd go with the larger injectors as well, give it some time and see how that goes. If all seems good yank the plugs after you've run it awhile and see what they look like.
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if his boat has the 215 hp 4 stroke injected, you can't read the plugs like a 2 stroke, the ECU runs them much leaner than 2 strokes, etc.
also he won't need the 42 injectors if he's at altitude and still uses the internal intercooler. If he goes to an external cooler, then the RF would be needed and 42's. We run at 5k altitude and even with XXX chargers and external coolers, the 38's are not lean. So altitude of the lake is critical. Ron
 
Waxing actually slows a boat down!

Seadoobuddy said:
How is wear ring clearance to the impeller.....too large it will decrease your speed and hole shot?
Are your carbs aligned correctly to open 100%?
Correct spark plugs and gapped right?
What the compression of your motor?

Wash and wax the bottom of the hull....it goes faster!! :) :)
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some thing roughing it up works better as it has a cushion to lift off water.
Re: making your boat faster, See my previous posts in mods section for this 215 engine I did on my Speedster (thru the transom exhaust, X charger W/R & D adapter, 4" Fizzle air intake to cold air, Solas Concord R impeller W/stainless wear ring, Riva catch can, etc.) Huge gains over OEM. Bought all from Jerry at the Greenhulk site, which is the best place to buy all. See Ytube VIDEO BELOW.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIxPe4K7x18
 
RON@COMMONWEALTHUSA.NET said:
if his boat has the 215 hp 4 stroke injected, you can't read the plugs like a 2 stroke, the ECU runs them much leaner than 2 strokes, etc.
also he won't need the 42 injectors if he's at altitude and still uses the internal intercooler. If he goes to an external cooler, then the RF would be needed and 42's. We run at 5k altitude and even with XXX chargers and external coolers, the 38's are not lean. So altitude of the lake is critical. Ron
Click to expand...

Yeah, I suppose I didn't tell him how to read his (4-stroke) plugs but I can tell him what to look for if he wants or needs me too. IMO it's easier to accomplish than a 2-stroke, actually.

I don't have direct experience with racing the Rotax 4-strokes myself nor do I know anyone who does but if I wanted something with top end my first choice would exclude a jet.

I agree that opening up the exhaust might be necessary to avoid detonation on a forced induction setup and often doesn't hurt any of them aside from making them louder. The tune on some of these motors is quite lean already though, so reading plugs and the ability to adjust air:fuel mixture via manipulating the PCM/ECU/MPEM fuel map is a good possibility.

In my case I wouldn't want to have to retune each time I changed elevation but to each his own, I suppose. Maybe he has a good ear and experience with manipulating fuel maps, if sounds like he does?
 
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