Well now what can I do?

[ARCBOY]

I just bought a 98 sportster 1800 a few weeks ago and posted up it wasn't running right and had cavitation. All the parts came in and I'm conifers to when I put the Solas impellers on along with new seals the cavitation will be gone.

The problem I have is before my starboard motor was t running right so after tearing both carbs off and replacing small rule lines on the carbs, rebuilding them, replacing a few water hoses, and welding up the exhaust, the starboard side runs better but won't stay running like the portside. I don't know if the port side is running correctly but it does run and it reves up and idles. There must be some re limited when in the neutral position because it won't rev up past 5k until I put it in F or R.

The starboard side will run if I play with the choke, which tells me it needs more fuel or less air for the amount of fuel it getting at idle who which on my diet bikes it means the pilot is screwed up. There is only one thing I didn't pull out is I think was the main jet OT at least the low/high adjuster thingy. The strange thing is it will idle for a few seconds and die or I can get it to rev up to 7-8k no problem then it starts to die unless I pull the choke.

 

[ARCBOY]

I'm now going to put the port side carb on the starboard side so that should eliminate the carb being the issue or not.

I noticed when taking off the fuel lines that the port side top fuel line was pouring out fuel and the starboard side no fuel came out. I don't think its possible for the fuel pump to have a difference in each side. There is a plastic thing which has fuel lines going to it (maybe this is the fuel regulator), maybe this can be bad?

 

[LouDoo]

If it's part 29 it's your fuel pump, it should be feed fuel to both engines, try switching outlet hoses and see if the problem changes engines. If so it's the fuel pump. I'm thinking it's probably not the fuel pump but that's a good place to start.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...13&make=seadoojb&a=172&b=8&c=0&d=-FUEL-SYSTEM

Lou

 

[ARCBOY]

Ahhhh, I would have thought what's inside part 6 would be the fuel pump. I will switch that also.

My fuel gauge is broke, is a sending unit/float inside part 6? I guess the gauge could be broke but most likely it's the sending unit in most cases and if tere is a fuel filter in there it should probably be replaced.

 

[jhjesse]

When the ski is in neutral there is a rev limiter not allowing the engines to rev over 3500rpms.

If you have to play with the choke to get the engine to run then you are not getting enough fuel. (lean) Is the pop off pressure set correctly? Are the low speed and High speed adjusters adjusted correctly?

Fuel pumps could be old and tired. As Lou stated #29 on the diagram. They probably need replacing.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63577-fuel-pumps

 

[ARCBOY]

When the ski is in neutral there is a rev limiter not allowing the engines to rev over 3500rpms.

If you have to play with the choke to get the engine to run then you are not getting enough fuel. (lean) Is the pop off pressure set correctly? Are the low speed and High speed adjusters adjusted correctly?

Fuel pumps could be old and tired. As Lou stated #29 on the diagram. They probably need replacing.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63577-fuel-pumps

I figured there was a rev limiter when in N position.

I noticed there is a lot of play in the throttle cables and do nothing for at least 1/4 throw of the throttle "sticks"

I will try and buy the OEM style fuel pumps and if I can't I will do what is in the link. For right now I'm not wanting to mess with modifications even though that sounds like a good one. If I can't find the OEM style I will do the mod.

I am going to get the Part #6 and assume the sending unit is in there and will fix my fuel gauge.

After swapping the carbs I found the running motor on the port side and put it on the starboard side and sure enough it ran fine. I looked at the bad carb and found the "H" (high) side had different jets what ever they are called. Here is a couple of pics to show what I have. Oh yeah I can't find the proper clamps and fuel hose so I had to rig up something bought some 1/4" fuel to go over some old fuel hose to get a tight seal. The hose is discontinued and no auto parts store has that small of fuel grade hose and a motorcycle store has something sooo close but not tight fit and the clamps I have can't be reused and i can't find any small enough.

Anther issue is it didn't seem to matter which fuel line went to either port on the carb lines going every where but I can't really tell which is "in" or "out". I know there is a fuel route in the manual that I'm going to have to figure out.

 

[LouDoo]

First of all replace those grey tempo fuel lines with black automotive type, clean the fuel system, and clean and or overhaul your carbs. Part no. 6 is the fuel baffle, it probably doesn't need to be replaced the reason the fuel gauge is not working is probably just a bad float. And from what you're saying since the problem followed the carbs., you probably don't need a new fuel pump.

Step back and take a breath, you've got all winter to get this boat running right, winter is slow on the forum and there's plenty of help here. Just tackle one problem at a time. Here's a thread about the grey fuel lines, its for a PWC but a boat is very similar. I would suggest you do this first, if you don't you may find yourself chasing ghosts.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

Lou

 

[ARCBOY]

Well fortunately I still have some time before it gets too cold here as it will be in the 70s and spike to the 80s for the next month or so so I would like to at least hit the water and cruise around with it to make sure it works properly.

I replace all of the tempo fuel lines, those grey lines came from a motorcycle shop and are not the same style as they are normal rubber on the inside. Like I said I can't find anyone who sells the same size fuel line and small enough clamps I removed. Every place online says there are obsolete and its looking like the same goes for a fuel pump. I really don't like to modify stuff and want all OEM style parts until I get everything working properly.

I am just going to get the correct jet that should be in the carb that goes on the high side and since it doesn't look like the float can be replaced I will buy the whole baffle.

Do you know why the boat seems to run the same with the fuel lines are swapped for either port?

 

[LouDoo]

O.K.................

 

[ARCBOY]

O.K.................

Are you yelling at me :-( ??? I hope you don't take my response the wrong way as I'm just trying to learn and get this thing working properly.

Do you know why the motor seems to run the same with the fuel lines are swapped for either port on the carbs?

 

[Waterluvr]

Arcboy do you still have the old small fuel lines for your accelerator pump? There is an inline recharge jet body on those you need to save and re-install or there was a restrictor fit inside of the line on the demand side you wouldn't have seen but either way that has to be in place to prevent your accelerator pump from scavenging to much fuel from the carb when it's under load.

 

[ARCBOY]

Arcboy do you still have the old small fuel lines for your accelerator pump? There is an inline recharge jet body on those you need to save and re-install or there was a restrictor fit inside of the line on the demand side you wouldn't have seen but either way that has to be in place to prevent your accelerator pump from scavenging to much fuel from the carb when it's under load.

I don't have them as two of them had holes and squirting fuel so I threw them away as I figured I'd order new but of course they are obsolete on every parts website I can find. If someone knows where I can get replacement with replacement clamps I would love to order them. The closest I could find were motorcycle fuel grade type and they were still slightly too large and the other problem is nobody has clamps that small for any style and I don't want the OEM style where you have to use the special tool.

 

[Waterluvr]

I use 1/8" ID ~ 3/16" OD tygon fuel line and a 3/16" coated clamp either chrome or zinced like these to replace those http://www.ebay.com/itm/spi-fuel-line-clamps-zinc-coated-10-pack-3-16-/280685327449. Full service lawn and garden or Hobby shops that sell RC alcohol fueled toys usually sell that at the parts counter if you need a local source.

You should have had the plastic body restrictors installed at the very end of your supply side line to the inlet barb, if those got trashed you need PN# 270500348 one for each accelerator pump.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I believe the fuel sender floats can be repaired. Fuel senders are famous for the internal fuse blowing, as well.

Tygon F-4040-A is the type of tubing you want to use for the small oil and accelerator pump fuel lines. 3/32 ID for the oil lines and I think the accelerator lines are the same size but not certain as mine are original still.

 

[Coastiejoe]

The fuel floats are notorious for failing. Very common to have baffle issues, float issues, and the internal fuse issue... They are all pretty easy to fix, just a matter of knowing which is your concern. If you open it up, replace the float no matter what as it is cheap and there is an updated part available


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ARCBOY]

I use 1/8" ID ~ 3/16" OD tygon fuel line and a 3/16" coated clamp either chrome or zinced like these to replace those http://www.ebay.com/itm/spi-fuel-line-clamps-zinc-coated-10-pack-3-16-/280685327449. Full service lawn and garden or Hobby shops that sell RC alcohol fueled toys usually sell that at the parts counter if you need a local source.

You should have had the plastic body restrictors installed at the very end of your supply side line to the inlet barb, if those got trashed you need PN# 270500348 one for each accelerator pump.

Thanks a ton for telling me about the restrictors!!!!!!!! do you know if there is a specific direction for installation?

 

[ARCBOY]

I believe the fuel sender floats can be repaired. Fuel senders are famous for the internal fuse blowing, as well.

Tygon F-4040-A is the type of tubing you want to use for the small oil and accelerator pump fuel lines. 3/32 ID for the oil lines and I think the accelerator lines are the same size but not certain as mine are original still.

I didn't think of those places. I'm going today after work, thanks!!!!!!

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks a ton for telling me about the restrictors!!!!!!!! do you know if there is a specific direction for installation?

The exterior plastic bodied ones have an arrow indicator.

 

[ARCBOY]

The exterior plastic bodied ones have an arrow indicator.

I have the metal ones and no arrow. Hard to tell from the microfiche but looks like the taper goes toward the carb.

 

[ARCBOY]

New problem. I thought I figured out the problem since i switched the carbs and the port side motor ran fine, so I put that carb on the starboard side and sure enough it ran fine. From the pic below the jet/adjuster thingy was the difference, so I ordered the part# 12, 13, 31, and 32 and now they wont screw into the "H" located threaded hole where the exact same part came out of on the good running carb. Is it possible the carbs are different? There are some differences like the fuel feed and return are straight on one and 90deg on another but I think that is it. Now what? I would really like to know if I need to spend more money and get a different carb or is there another adjuster/Jet thingy that I should have ordered? I just want to get this thing fixed. I've never had this many issues with carbs, I guess motorcycles are a lot easier to work on :-(

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Come on now ARCBOY, you're a welder and fabricator, this should be a walk in the park for you!

Remove that black plastic cap from your mixture adjustment needle and toss that thing in the garbage, it's just going to make life difficult.

If those orifices are what it sounds like, they are beveled inside. So what? Well in that case I'd place the narrow orifice end towards the flow and the beveled end down stream. Not that it should make any difference at all ! Maybe I just don't understand what the concern is, probably I've missed something.

And, have you had those carbs apart yet to hose the passages with carburetor cleaner solvent? I see a bit of corrosion on the tip of that mixture adjustment screw, makes me wonder if there isn't some white death growing inside your carb.

And feel free to lube up those parts while installing them, some lubriplate or just a little grease/oil on those threads will keep them from galling. I like to use the silver colored antiseize on my personal carb assemblies to keep galvanic corrosion at a minimum.

 

[ARCBOY]

Come on now ARCBOY, you're a welder and fabricator, this should be a walk in the park for you!

Remove that black plastic cap from your mixture adjustment needle and toss that thing in the garbage, it's just going to make life difficult.

If those orifices are what it sounds like, they are beveled inside. So what? Well in that case I'd place the narrow orifice end towards the flow and the beveled end down stream. Not that it should make any difference at all ! Maybe I just don't understand what the concern is, probably I've missed something.

Plastic cap trash...done.

My problem is the two adjusters came out of the same location on separate carbs. One adjuster on the left in the pic is OEM part so I ordered that part to replace the one on the right. Problem is the one on the right wont allow the adjuster to screw in the hole as they are different. I don't know if the carbs are supposed to be like that or if the one carb is just different enough and the wrong one.

I cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner as I rebuilt them, as this is no problem for me since Ive rebuilt numerous dirt bike carbs. These just have a few more parts.

 

[Waterluvr]

Co-sign what Sportster advised on the narrower end towards the flow, I just cleaned my glasses to make sure I wasn't seeing something that wasn't there but that high side adjuster looks like someone got heavy handed seating it and bent the needle tip pretty bad.

 

[ARCBOY]

Co-sign what Sportster advised on the narrower end towards the flow, I just cleaned my glasses to make sure I wasn't seeing something that wasn't there but that high side adjuster looks like someone got heavy handed seating it and bent the needle tip pretty bad.

Ok, good to know.

Does anyone know why there is a difference in carbs adjuster screws? Are they supposed to be like that or are the carbs different?

 

[Waterluvr]

The adjuster screws should be the same, no reason they wouldn't swap out carb to carb.