WATER SIPHONING INTO RESONATOR - ALMOST RESOLVED

[mejim707]

Does your symptom have any similarities the automotive cooling system,,,where after you shut the engine off,,water syphons into the collection container.. ?

I think maybe? Water is absolutely pouring into the resonator until I clamp that lower hose on the water valve. It could be from the jet pump inlet, could be form the head or even the cooling hose for the tuned pipe. I thought it was from the inlet at the jet pump, but now after what wernerml said I guess it could be form those other places.

I'm going to go out in the morning again then park it and try to get a clear understanding of exactly where the water is coming from.

Also, I finally got the courage to go far out on the lake and park at a restaurant a good distance from my launch and car. I made sure to clamp the hose just in case. I'm not taking any chances.

After about and hour and a half of just hanging out the boat started up with no trouble. I'm very happy about that!

Regardless of when I figure this out the boat is still doing great and reliably starts every time.

 

[DarrenR]

I think maybe? Water is absolutely pouring into the resonator until I clamp that lower hose on the water valve. It could be from the jet pump inlet, could be form the head or even the cooling hose for the tuned pipe. I thought it was from the inlet at the jet pump, but now after what wernerml said I guess it could be form those other places.

I'm going to go out in the morning again then park it and try to get a clear understanding of exactly where the water is coming from.

Also, I finally got the courage to go far out on the lake and park at a restaurant a good distance from my launch and car. I made sure to clamp the hose just in case. I'm not taking any chances.

After about and hour and a half of just hanging out the boat started up with no trouble. I'm very happy about that!

Regardless of when I figure this out the boat is still doing great and reliably starts every time.

Hey mejim,

I had a thought on your water siphoning issue. You could try putting Tee in that line to add a valved air bleed. That way any vacuum should suck air and not water. You could possibly even run a tube to outside the engine compartment and have the valve for the air bleed in a better location. In that scenario, if you forgot to close the valve, you would still have cooling to the exhaust and maybe be alerted by water squirting out the air bleed valve

 

[mejim707]

Hey mejim,

I had a thought on your water siphoning issue. You could try putting Tee in that line to add a valved air bleed. That way any vacuum should suck air and not water. You could possibly even run a tube to outside the engine compartment and have the valve for the air bleed in a better location. In that scenario, if you forgot to close the valve, you would still have cooling to the exhaust and maybe be alerted by water squirting out the air bleed valve

This is interesting! So this would prevent water from passing through the valve but would allow air pressure release? Is this something I would need to manually turn off or does the pressure release in the valve work automatically? I don't know much about valves like this but if you have a part I can research I'll check it out!

I hate having to clamp that hose. I messed up yesterday and forgot it and melted a few rubber hoses including the big coupler from the tuned pipe to the resonator. It looked like my worst nightmare. Smoke everywhere, exhaust sizzling and the boat was sinking rapidly getting it back to the dock with those hoses gushing water inside. I was very far away.

Anything to avoid messing with manual valves or clamps would be far safer. I snuck through that debacle, but I never want to do that again.. That was very sketchy.

 

[DarrenR]

This is interesting! So this would prevent water from passing through the valve but would allow air pressure release? Is this something I would need to manually turn off or does the pressure release in the valve work automatically? I don't know much about valves like this but if you have a part I can research I'll check it out!

I hate having to clamp that hose. I messed up yesterday and forgot it and melted a few rubber hoses including the big coupler from the tuned pipe to the resonator. It looked like my worst nightmare. Smoke everywhere, exhaust sizzling and the boat was sinking rapidly getting it back to the dock with those hoses gushing water inside. I was very far away.

Anything to avoid messing with manual valves or clamps would be far safer. I snuck through that debacle, but I never want to do that again.. That was very sketchy.

You would put a Tee in the middle of the line that you have been clamping. The Tee would add a 3rd port which you would run a smaller ~1/4" hose or tube to a valve that could be manually opened. If the water is really sucked into the exhaust by vacuum, an air bleed should break the vacuum. You would want to make sure the Tee is sufficiently large and doesn't constrict your cooling flow. The parts I am imaging are things I have at work. I'll try to remember to take a pic and post it here.

What you're thinking I was saying was more like a check valve which I think you could maybe use but for just testing to see if the idea works, I think a manual valve would be better. The reason I am saying to use a smaller line for the 3rd port of the Tee is because air does not need as large of a path as liquid and even if you forgot to close the manual valve, the majority of your cooling water would still go into the exhaust though some smaller amount would come through the air bleed line.

 

[DarrenR]

I have a rubber plug for the floor water drain as well lol The ball valve on the transom doesn't work well at all.

I'll leave the transom flush connector open. It has no cap and I'm glad the consensus is that it should not. The one under the hood does however.

It's only me that goes out with the boat. So 1 person and maybe 25 pounds of gear on board and that's all. Nothing to make the rear low in water. I weight maybe 160 wet haha

I could try the check valve idea, but if I'm working on anything the deviates from stock, couldn't I delete the water regulator all together? I've heard of people doing this but I don't want to cause an issue. I'd imagine this would only force more water into cooling the exhaust and shouldn't cause harm?

Hey mejim or whoeversees this,

I thinkni just caught something new in this thread that I hadn't seen before. Are you saying the hose threaded flush ports under the engine bay hood should be capped? We're talking the ones I would have used to poor antifreeze in to winterize the boat.

Thx

 

[mejim707]

Hey mejim or whoeversees this,

I thinkni just caught something new in this thread that I hadn't seen before. Are you saying the hose threaded flush ports under the engine bay hood should be capped? We're talking the ones I would have used to poor antifreeze in to winterize the boat.

Thx

I believe so... I think the one under the hood should be capped while running, Mine has a cap with a chain on it so that seems to permanently belong there and if you’re done with it I’d imagine you should put the cap on since it’s chained in that location.

I don’t have any information to counter this however so perhaps people leave not only the one on the transom, but also the one under the engine cover uncapped during running operation?

 

[mejim707]

You would put a Tee in the middle of the line that you have been clamping. The Tee would add a 3rd port which you would run a smaller ~1/4" hose or tube to a valve that could be manually opened. If the water is really sucked into the exhaust by vacuum, an air bleed should break the vacuum. You would want to make sure the Tee is sufficiently large and doesn't constrict your cooling flow. The parts I am imaging are things I have at work. I'll try to remember to take a pic and post it here.

What you're thinking I was saying was more like a check valve which I think you could maybe use but for just testing to see if the idea works, I think a manual valve would be better. The reason I am saying to use a smaller line for the 3rd port of the Tee is because air does not need as large of a path as liquid and even if you forgot to close the manual valve, the majority of your cooling water would still go into the exhaust though some smaller amount would come through the air bleed line.

This is old but wanted to give you an update.

I bought a 12v water valve. It has two full open and full closed sensor wires.

I installed the valve at the water inlet from the "T" to the water valve on the resonator. It's inline with that hose.

Then I wired it to the helm with a momentary switch and I set it up with a light that will turn red for "water off" and blue for "water on". This light only illuminates at full open or closed.

So when I park, I close the value from the helm by pressing that button and that's it. It works beautifully! About $70 in parts and an hour to build the wiring harness and it's done. Makes this far easier!

I also wired into the harness a beeper so when the water value is closed it will sound the beeper until I open the valve again. This is no problem because I always turn off the main electric breaker when I leave the boat anyway. So when I get back, turn on the breaker, I hear the beeping so there's no way for anyone can mess this up.

Here is a video and image of the valve in place!

Electric Valve Video

 

[DarrenR]

This is old but wanted to give you an update.

I bought a 12v water valve. It has two full open and full closed sensor wires.

I installed the valve at the water inlet from the "T" to the water valve on the resonator. It's inline with that hose.

Then I wired it to the helm with a momentary switch and I set it up with a light that will turn red for "water off" and blue for "water on". This light only illuminates at full open or closed.

So when I park, I close the value from the helm by pressing that button and that's it. It works beautifully! About $70 in parts and an hour to build the wiring harness and it's done. Makes this far easier!

I also wired into the harness a beeper so when the water value is closed it will sound the beeper until I open the valve again. This is no problem because I always turn off the main electric breaker when I leave the boat anyway. So when I get back, turn on the breaker, I hear the beeping so there's no way for anyone can mess this up.

Here is a video and image of the valve in place!

Electric Valve Video

View attachment 63752

Thanks for the update. Its awesome how pulling everyones knowledge on this forum and a never say die attitude can solve almost every problem...eventually. It's always interesting to hear how things work out. I sold my boat earlier this year so I won't get a chance to try it myself. If I had stuck it out and fixed the issue, I would have enjoyed the boat a lot more.

 

[DarrenR]

Thanks for the update. Its awesome how pulling everyones knowledge on this forum and a never say die attitude can solve almost every problem...eventually. It's always interesting to hear how things work out. I sold my boat earlier this year so I won't get a chance to try it myself. If I had stuck it out and fixed the issue, I would have enjoyed the boat a lot more.

One last thought:
Most actuated valves that I have seen either fail open or fail closed. If this valve fails closed, it could cause you to lose cooling. I'm not sure how it's wired and if you would be warned in that scenario so that may not be an issue.