Water shooting out of spark plug holes while cranking over

[speters427]

Hooked up the adapter to run water into engine from garden hose while it is on the trailer and out of the water. Tried to start engine and it seemed to be locked up after half a crank. Took plugs out and the engine cranked fine except that water came blowing out of the rear cylinder with the plug removed. Hasn't been running since early last summer.

What is the most likely cause? Guy at the Sea-Doo dealer said it might be a bad head gasket and I might be inclined to agree if it was just a small amount of water, but it seems like a crazy amount of water coming out while it cranks over.

Thanks
Steve

 

[Wire4Money]

make sure you don't turn on the water until AFTER the engine is running. Shut the water off before shutting the engine down.

 

[James.Moon]

Like he said, never turn on the water before the engine is started or water will go into the engine. I have rigged up a shut off valve in my garden hose so I can take it with me when I start the engine, then turn on the water from the driver's seat.

 

[djredman99]

As these guys said, it sounds like you turned the hose on first, then tried to start and that is a no no.

You HAVE to get that water out of there ASAP. Take your plugs off and crank the engine until you don't get anymore water shooting out of the plug holes. Then you have to get the engine running to, preferably a ride on the water to make sure you have gotten all the water out. Otherwise, you engine will rust on the inside. This may lead to the need for an engine rebuild.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

As these guys said, it sounds like you turned the hose on first, then tried to start and that is a no no.

You HAVE to get that water out of there ASAP. Take your plugs off and crank the engine until you don't get anymore water shooting out of the plug holes. Then you have to get the engine running to, preferably a ride on the water to make sure you have gotten all the water out. Otherwise, you engine will rust on the inside. This may lead to the need for an engine rebuild.

X2!!! ULTRA IMPORTANT!! Do it tonight!!!

 

[Bills86e]

As these guys said, it sounds like you turned the hose on first, then tried to start and that is a no no.

You HAVE to get that water out of there ASAP. Take your plugs off and crank the engine until you don't get anymore water shooting out of the plug holes. Then you have to get the engine running to, preferably a ride on the water to make sure you have gotten all the water out. Otherwise, you engine will rust on the inside. This may lead to the need for an engine rebuild.

Invest in a hose pincher. This ALSO will happen if you break down in the water and you get towed back to the dock, without pinchering
the water supply line from the jetpump to the engine. When the season is over, you can use the pincher on the big oil line from the tank
bottom to the engines RV shaft cavity nipple under the RV cover. This will stop pressure from gravity on the crankshaft seals, that can
warp them and cause leakage into the two lower cases. Use your pincher if you tow your ski while its in the water.

 

[speters427]

Thanks to all of you.......You have saved me a boat load of money.

I was fairly sure I was looking at a major repair bill. You were right, I cranked the engine (without the flushing hose attached) until it was dry, re-installed the plugs, replaced the old fuel and she is now running.

WOW, you have to love the internet!

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Get it out to the lake tomorrow and run it for 10-15mins...or maybe on the hose (correctly then heavily fog the motor.

We finally saved one...I cant tell you how many machines I buy where someone got water in the motor then left it till it was rusted solid.

 

[SuperKev]

ok I follishly did this too. Had it hooked up and not running for about 5 minutes, maybe more. I tipped a good deal of the water out. Took the plugs out sprayed em down with brake cleaning fluid, dried and replaced after truning it over a few times. I repeated this until it started and idled. No water ever shot out of the plug holes though. Anyway, took it out today, and it ran well for about 5 minutes then just lost its power. It crawled back to the dock almost dying once and trying to pick up several times. Brought it home rinsed it off and flushed it right. Ran great before the hose incident. How screwed am I? Anybody familiar with these symptoms?[/I]

 

[jhjesse]

ok I follishly did this too. Had it hooked up and not running for about 5 minutes, maybe more. I tipped a good deal of the water out. Took the plugs out sprayed em down with brake cleaning fluid, dried and replaced after truning it over a few times. I repeated this until it started and idled. No water ever shot out of the plug holes though. Anyway, took it out today, and it ran well for about 5 minutes then just lost its power. It crawled back to the dock almost dying once and trying to pick up several times. Brought it home rinsed it off and flushed it right. Ran great before the hose incident. How screwed am I? Anybody familiar with these symptoms?[/I]

Do a compression test.

 

[SuperKev]

ok i'm truly gonna show my stripes now...how do you do a compression test? Thanks in advance.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

James.Moon - I like the idea of a longer hose connection. Is it a "Y" hook up with the on/off at the "Y"? If not could you take a pic and sent it to me/us by a post or Private message. Thanks

 

[Bills86e]

Yep! What Jess said!

 

[jhjesse]

ok i'm truly gonna show my stripes now...how do you do a compression test? Thanks in advance.

1. Remove the spark plug wires and attach them to the grounding posts.
2. Remove one of the spark plugs and install a compression guage in it's place. (can get one at an auto parts store)
3. Hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine over several times until the pressure on the guage stops building.
4. Read the guage. Compression should be 150psi. 145 to 120 is still OK, but anything lower will require a top end rebuild at the min.
5. Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder. You should not have more than 5psi difference between the cylinders.

Don't use fogging oil in the cylinders while doing the test. You will get a false reading.
I would do the test while the engine is cold. A warm engine can give you a false reading, as well.

 

[SuperKev]

OK. Did it cold with no fogging oil. I didnt put fogging oil in after I got the water out either. It sounds like i'm in the ok range, barely. The front cylinder is at 139 and the rear (closer to the seat) is at 134. What now and thanks again.

 

[SuperKev]

I read somewhere that someone drained the fuel out following water in the engine. Sounds like a good ideal yeah?

 

[bigJake]

I read somewhere that someone drained the fuel out following water in the engine. Sounds like a good ideal yeah?

that's only if the engine got flooded in the water by the hull filling. You wouldn't get water in the fuel tank from running on the hose

 

[SuperKev]

well i wont do that then. Anyone? There is so much on the internet about people doing it but very little about troubleshooting it.

 

[bigJake]

well i wont do that then. Anyone? There is so much on the internet about people doing it but very little about troubleshooting it.

may just be coincidence that it started running bad after you flooded the engine since you had it running good for a while.

clean your fuel filter under the hood (soak in castrol super clean) and try it again, pour water in the filter (After you take it out of the ski) and see if it holds water at all, taht will show the mesh is dirty and plugged
how old is the gas? if it's a couple months old, drain it

do you still have gray fuel lines?
if so read this thread and replace them, clean caarbs etc, it's all spelled out inthe thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

 

[SuperKev]

OK. I will get into this over the weekend and repost. Thanks for the ideals. The plugs seem very old to..maybe I will replace them as well.

 

[jhjesse]

OK. I will get into this over the weekend and repost. Thanks for the ideals. The plugs seem very old to..maybe I will replace them as well.

I would change the plugs BR8ES gapped to 0.021." Cut the zip ties on the plug boots and unscrew them. Clip the plug wires back about 1/4" and re install the plug boots. Take it to the lake and run it. It should start to get better.

 

[SuperKev]

Alright fellas I changed the plugs and cut the wires back but am still learning about this ski. Excuse my ignorance please. I noticed the choke was out a bit and the fuel was on reserve. This would cause the issue I stated above right? I havent had a chance to take it back out yet bc of rough water.

One more question, what type of oil would you mix in with gas on this 1996 HX? A salesman told me seadoo synthetic but salesmen are in sales! Any 2 cycle good?

Thanks again.