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water leaking out of exaust manifold

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fastE

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I just purchased a 97 challenger 1800, when i took it out i foulnd the port engine kept cutting out a little above 5500 rpms, after getting it back home and pulling the plug it was full of hot water, which is when i found the manifold has some sorta soft welded plug? it has sprung a leak. would this be the cause of the engine cutting out or a result of it cutting out
Thanks Eddie
 
That plug needs to be repaired. You have 2 choices,1) use a 2 part epoxy for a short term repair, or 2) remove it and have it welded. That should solve you problem of the water leak. Depending on how big a leak will determine if it is the rpm problem. Repair the pipe and go from there.

Karl
 
Yah...any water leak a bad sign...water not circulating correctly, can cause cylinder/s to heat up, and with leak (internal), can leak/sucked back into cylinder, caus'n misfire, that may explain the cut'n out
 
thanks, i was wondering if the epoxy, would work for a short term fix. i have a service manual comming, look forword to any advice recieved. good things to check out,
I notice it sure sounds kind of rattlely when i start it up out of the water to flush it or what have ya. do the impellers turn in nuetral? sounds like its coming from the pumps
 
All seadoo's are direct drive...meaning it is always in forward motion. The ipeller is always spinning as is the engine. The noise is the spring in he impeller jet that has no load against it. It will give a tinny loose sound. It will go away when it is in the water underload. The sound is pretty much normal.

Karl
 
Water leaks....

It seems that this is not an uncommon problem. I saw several Seadoo's last year and several more this year, including my own.

When you remove the tuned pipe exhaust system, you'll notice there are these round knob looking pieces. From what I see of it, this is where the water jacket was formed inside the exhaust system. The water crosses the head as it comes in from the jet pump, then over to the tuned pipe where it circulates to preheat the water before entering the engine block.

The corrosion your going to find is a white powdery substance called aluminum oxide. When water is heated up, the minerals and particulates will cling to the aluminum surface. This isn't really to good, as it causes insulation and really reduces the amount of heat transter taking place.

What I did to my 97 model 787cc: I took off the tuned pipe for, at the time, one leak. Well, as I worked on that one leak, it turned out to be 4 or 5. I used a dremel tool with a burrr bit and started at the small hole the leak was at. Before I knew it, the hole was the size of my thumb. Then, moving the burr bit around, pressing and tapping here and there, found several more. Most of them on those little humps. When you clean them, clean them well down to bare aluminum and the surrounding surface.

After exposing all your holes, if any are excessive, you'll need a piece of aluminum screen. Then, go to your local auto parts house and buy the strongest JB weld they have. They have a marine application for using underwater, you don't need that one. You just need a strong bond, that says it will work with aluminum.

Then, cut and mix a small, golfball size piece on a board or old plate. You have to knead it together really well (it comes in a tube with both parts together, one part inside the other). Do the smaller ones first to get the hang of it, then, if you have to use a piece screen, put the screen over the hole, then apply a small amount onto the screen where it overlaps the bad area. When it takes up, holding the screen on it's own, then apply over the top of the screen. I built mine up, probably close to a half inch.

I let it dry overnight, then, I put the sander on my dremel and smoothed it out. I cleaned the entire tuned pipe and got a nice, glossy black spray paint and gave it a coat..............

My repair has lasted through three tanks of gas and some tremendous bouncing on the waves will going air borne. It seems to be working really well. :cheers:
 
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Well the epoxy has worked great on the leak, but the engine is cutting out around six grand. I seems to be a fuel supply problem. i will replace the filters and clean the carbs next. Any advice on working in the engine compartment?
I have tried leaning over the back seats from the sides im worried about breaking somthing crawling in there.
I,ve been reading some of the threads on cavitating, i have noticed the the engine that cuts out revs alot faster than the other one. i was thinking the wear ring may have been wore out more on that side. but it sounds kind of like it may be that. i have to keep that engine throttled back a good bit to keep the rpm's mached. and man it dont like going in a strait line, it either tries fish tailing or "bouncing?" like its trimed to much if it was an out board.
Even with all this its still a fun boat. looking forward to getting her ship shape. Thanks Eddie
 
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