vts fuse, tune up?

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Curtbutler

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ok so my vts stoped working after i did some other work on the engine. now everytime i put a new fuse in one of my fuse slots if blows instantly, im assuming its the one to my vts thats why that isnt working... i dont know why it would be doing this,

also after about half throttle my ski doesnt really increase in rpm at all, from half throttle it goes from like 6300 to 6700 rpm. whats up with that, my plugs did look quite black and fouled after only about 30 min of rideing. both cylinders are at 120 psi.

i have a 97 gsi, i belive thats the 717 motor
 
You need to re-check your compression, 120 is not good, if the compression is correct you're lucky the ski is running at all.

Lou
 
The VTS is a common failure. Both the motor and or the module fail about equal percentages.

First, lets confirm the fuse that is blowing is the VTS...

If you can't tell, unplug the VTS from the MPEM and then re-install the fuse. If i does not blow chances are it is the VTS fuse.
However, it is not uncommon for the VTS module to fail and pop the 15 amp main MPEM fuse.
 
ok well just ran another comp. test. it all makes perfect sense, they are indeed both at 120... i was tring to be optimistic. so i will have to pull off the cylinders and take them in and see if i need just new pistons and rings or have to put in a new sleeve too...

but as for the vts yup i unpluged the two connections and put a fuse in and it didnt blow. so whats up with that?
 
i got another question. i dont have time this summer, nor money to take it in. so can i drive it for the rest of the summer with 120 compression with out doing damage to the engine untill i can get to it...

vts fuse is still blowing cant go out till i get that fixed anyways :)
 
Curtbutler said:
i got another question. i dont have time this summer, nor money to take it in. so can i drive it for the rest of the summer with 120 compression with out doing damage to the engine untill i can get to it...

vts fuse is still blowing cant go out till i get that fixed anyways :)
Click to expand...

120 is super low. As long as it runs you really won't hurt it worse for the remainder of the season. It will likely get to a point where it will not start in the water.

To be clear, does the VTS fuse pop even when the VTS is unplugged?
 
no when i unplug the vts it wont blow when i put the fuse in. but as soon as i plug it in, or have it plugged in and put a fuse in it it will blow
 
Curtbutler said:
ok well just ran another comp. test. it all makes perfect sense, they are indeed both at 120... i was tring to be optimistic. so i will have to pull off the cylinders and take them in and see if i need just new pistons and rings or have to put in a new sleeve too...

but as for the vts yup i unpluged the two connections and put a fuse in and it didnt blow. so whats up with that?
Click to expand...

What brand & model comp. gauge are you using? If both cylinders are at exactly 120psi, I might be a little suspect of your gauge. There are so many crap gauges out there, that I trust none of them unless its proven to be acurate. Don't tear into that engine just yet. Do you have another ski you can test it on?


Like others have mentioned, the VTS units are known to fail. More times than not the rear boot where the linkage hooks up has a crack in it & has been letting water in.
 
68ragtop,
My 98spx rubber boot was nearly in two pieces when I discovered the problem. These should be checked regularly... I now know. My vts housing had been filling up with water every time off the lift...not good as my vts motor had ceased up. Ordered new aftermarket vts motor, hooked it up and get nothing. So my assumption is I have a fuse blown due to the water getting into my housing??? Could the vts housing and wiring be bad as well??

Thanks
Rak
 
Rakocyj said:
68ragtop,
My 98spx rubber boot was nearly in two pieces when I discovered the problem. These should be checked regularly... I now know. My vts housing had been filling up with water every time off the lift...not good as my vts motor had ceased up. Ordered new aftermarket vts motor, hooked it up and get nothing. So my assumption is I have a fuse blown due to the water getting into my housing??? Could the vts housing and wiring be bad as well??

Thanks
Rak
Click to expand...

If your motor was seized from corrosion, the added current draw from trying to run it probably blew the 7.5A fuse. With that fuse blown, the VTS will still give relay clicks as that portion is powered from the MPEM. but without the 7.5A no power actually gets to the motor. If its just the fuse, your in business!

Welcome to the forum BTW!
 
Rakocyj said:
68ragtop,
My 98spx rubber boot was nearly in two pieces when I discovered the problem. These should be checked regularly... I now know. My vts housing had been filling up with water every time off the lift...not good as my vts motor had ceased up. Ordered new aftermarket vts motor, hooked it up and get nothing. So my assumption is I have a fuse blown due to the water getting into my housing??? Could the vts housing and wiring be bad as well??
Thanks
Rak
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum.
Where in Michigan are you?

If not the VTS motor or fuse then it's probably the relay/module (forgot what's it called) same thing happened to me. [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION], Nick may have a good used one for you.
 
A marginal starting battery and/or starter will also crank the engine slower, thus compression reading will be lower.

Something else to ponder......

And gauges are notorious for being wrong, as mentioned!
 
Coldwater, MI
Fuse box is just in front of battery correct?? and vts fuse will be obvious to find??
Sorry just a novice with with a parts catalog, should I have a service manual?
 
Cool!

There should be two fuses in the rear Electrical box next to the battery. A 15A & the 7.5A you are looking for. They will have a water resistant cap over them, so they are a little disguised.
 
i dont know what brand it is, but i payed like 25 bucks for it, it has a sticker on the back saying it passed some sort of quality test. but it has been accurate in the past, i belive i got it at auto zone. but my battery turns the motor over quick, and no other skis.


as for the vts YES same problem, looked at the boot and it was in 3 different peices, and inside the housing it was wet and everything looks really corroded. so you think that whole motor is shot? i hear the relay click when i hit the button even if the fuse is blown.

the fuse that i keep blowing in in the front, its one of like 7 in a box, all around 7.5 amp.
 
Curtbutler said:
i dont know what brand it is, but i payed like 25 bucks for it, it has a sticker on the back saying it passed some sort of quality test. but it has been accurate in the past, i belive i got it at auto zone. but my battery turns the motor over quick, and no other skis.


as for the vts YES same problem, looked at the boot and it was in 3 different peices, and inside the housing it was wet and everything looks really corroded. so you think that whole motor is shot? i hear the relay click when i hit the button even if the fuse is blown.
Click to expand...


The entire electronics in the VTS are powered by the MPEM power. The motor is power through the relays you hear clicking, but the power source for the motor is in a different circuit with a 7.5A fuse. If you have up & down clicks, there might be hope. Sometimes the motors can be taken apart, cleaned up & saved. However its not real simple to do. But if the motors, junk as it sits anyway. Give it a shot!

A good gauge set can cost closer to $100, some are more. It should have separate hose fittings for all thread sizes & depths with a schroeder valve at the very tip of each adaptor. IMO a $25 gauge probably isn't real accurate, & if it doesn't have all those parts mentioned, its already going to have accuracy issues. Don't sweat the compression issue just yet. I like your engines chances better than your gauges.

BTW, on your GSI, I believe your 7.5A fuse is going to be in the front electronic module, not in the rear like the SPX
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tracked down the 7.5 amp fuse.... It was blown. Snapped a new one in and we are good to go. Thanks you guys!!
 
Rode all day. Had one vts that had been workin, had the other one fixed with new AM vts motor and fuse. Days end both are gone :( hoping its fuses and nothing more. Anyone have any clues
 
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