very poor acceleration,low top speed

[lld]

I have a 2012 130 se that i have used for a number of years with no issues. It doesn't have many hours of runtime. A local boat mechanic does the winterizing and spring startup for me. It was running fine at the end of last year. This spring it was having trouble recognizing either key and the battery drained quickly so he installed a new battery. It starts easily, has no fault codes but when you give it throttle is gains speed slowly. Gets up to a maximum of about 5300 RPM and about 25-30 mph.

I am going to run a compression check on the three cylinders but I am looking for what other types of tests/diagnostics can be run without Seadoo specific hardware and software. I don't have the equipment to do a leakdown test and the seadoo is not on land. Any ideas of potential causes for such a dramatic change in performance.

Larry

 

[ski-d00]

change your spark plugs

 

[lld]

The spark plugs were changed before putting it in the water. Might be bad plugs, i will change again. Thanks

 

[ski-d00]

Check coils and fuel spray pattern as well. Sounds like you are running on 2 cylinders.

 

[lld]

The boat mechanic said that when he went to start it in this spring, the forward cylinder was hydraulically locked with gas. Aftet he removed the plugs and turned it over to flush out the gas. It started but when he took out on the lake no power, so the fuel distribution might be an issue. How do you check the fuel spray pattern?

 

[ski-d00]

That's some pretty relevant information you left out. Typically, when a cylinder fills with gas it is either an injector problem or even more likely an ECU problem. Pull the fuel rail with a towel underneath and then put the key on. I'm guessing you will see that injector flowing gas out right away. Next switch the injectors from that cylinder and another and put the key back on to see if the swapped injector does the same thing as I think it will. Next, get a new ECU.

 

[lld]

Thanks, i will take a look this weekend. I only found out about the fuel issue when i asked the mechanic yesterday to outline what happened as he tried to get the pwc going this spring.

 

[lld]

I assume if its the ECU, then if I replace the ECU, the keys won't be recognized and I need to bring it to a dealer for programming?

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, dealer or someone like me with the software who can do it. ECU will need to be married to the cluster as well.

 

[lld]

If I test the injectors and they are ok and I need to replace or repair the ECU, then I need the hardware/software combination to program the keys and marry the ECU to the cluster or I need to get it to a dealer to be repaired and programmed. Dealers are about two hours away and the time frame for getting the work done is uncertain.

Looking around, it appears that the hardware/software offered by CanDoo (home version) at about $450 should allow me to do everything myself. Any issues with using the CanDoo equipment or are there other, more suitable options, to their offering? I am sure just the dealers labor would be similar, or larger, in cost and the turnaround is unknown.

Larry

 

[ski-d00]

Not sure you would get the value out of owning the software and it takes a little practice to use it. Where are you located? There are plenty of people around the country who can do this, not just dealers.

 

[lld]

I appreciate all your comments and suggestions.

I am in Connecticut but the watercraft is in Tolland, MA, which is western MA. If there is someone available, that would be great.

In general, I am pretty good with software since I was in the software design and instruction business for 25 years and I am also an engineer.

You are totally correct in terms of getting value out of such a purchase. In all liklihood, it would be one use and done, although I might program 1-2 extra keys since they tend to get lost.

Larry

 

[lld]

Its taken me awhile to get back to the seadoo and get it out of the water.

I pulled the coils and plugs and all three cylinders are 150+ psi in compression test and almost identical readings.

I have new plugs and coils but it was difficult to see the spark in the daylight when turning the engine over so i just installed the new plugs and coils.

By removing and installing the coil wires, I was able to prove that the third cylinder(farthest from the bow) is the culprit. No difference with the coil wire on or off for that cylinder. I think seadoo calls that #1 cylinder.

Since i installed a new coil and plug, either the coil is not getting power or the proper signal from the ecu or fuel is the issue.

Before removing the fuel rail and checking the injector, i wanted to be sure the coil is getting power. Its hard to get a probe into the connection so i need to make a blade strip to test.

Based on what i read, with the key removed, after you press START button, for 3 minutes you should see battery voltage at the violet/blue wire coming into the coil.

Can anyone confirm that test before i bother making something to use as a probe for the coil connector? Any other suggested tests before moving on to the fuel injection system?

Still hoping its not the ecu.

Larry

 

[mkov608]

Suggest you listen to Skidoo and check those injectors first; a stuck open injector will flood the cylinder and even with a spark it won't fire. The fuel rail is only secured with two bolts, and then you pull the rail out of the intake manifold. Then you'll need three mason jars or suitable containers.

 

[lld]

I am going to follow his advice about the injectors but i need to get sockets to fit the torx bolts to remove the fuel rail. I ordered a set but i thought i would check power to the coil while i wait for the sockets.

 

[lld]

I even bought replacement injectors so except for the ecu or a broken or shorted wire, i should have all the replacement parts, even bought spare fuel injector o rings.

When i go up to the seadoo, i am 2 hours from everything so i need to be prepared.

I appreciate everyones advice.

 

[lld]

By the way,,when i removed the plug in question it was dry and no noticeable gas was being “pumped” from any cylinder during a few engine strokes or during the compression test.

The cylinder that is not firing is not the one that the mechanic said got hydraulically locked, at least based on what he told me. I am going to check back with him to be sure he gave me the correct cylinder.

I did check and he says the forward cylinder hydraulically locked this spring. The rearward cylinder is the one that is not running now.

 

[lld]

I was able to get a fork connector leg into the coil connector. All three coils are seeing battery voltage when the START button is depressed (no key attached) so the problem cylinder at least has power to the coil.

The torx socket set will arrive after the weekend so removing the fuel rail will have to wait. Looks like there is not a lot of room to pull the injectors out as a unit attached to the fuel rail (even after removing the coil connections) before other wiring, hoses, etc will start interfering.

Trying to save myself from disconnecting unnecessarily and also making sure i have any replacements available, anyone remember whether anything else needs to be disconnected, cable ties cut, etc?

 

[mkov608]

I was able to get a fork connector leg into the coil connector. All three coils are seeing battery voltage when the START button is depressed (no key attached) so the problem cylinder at least has power to the coil.

The torx socket set will arrive after the weekend so removing the fuel rail will have to wait. Looks like there is not a lot of room to pull the injectors out as a unit attached to the fuel rail (even after removing the coil connections) before other wiring, hoses, etc will start interfering.

Trying to save myself from disconnecting unnecessarily and also making sure i have any replacements available, anyone remember whether anything else needs to be disconnected, cable ties cut, etc?

You contradicted yourself in the first paragraph. Are all three coils getting battery voltage, or is the problem cylinder not getting power?

 

[lld]

i stated it poorly. All three coils are seeing battery voltage

When i said the problem cylinder at least has power to the coil, i meant that at least there is power to that coil (along with all the other coils), but that doesnt mean it is firing or firing at the correct time.

I was surprised that when i tried grounding any of the three coil/plug combinations, i really couldn’t see the spark plugs fire. Yet, they are firing since it starts up instantaneously. Perhaps, i need a darker environment or better glasses.

I am used to classic cars where there is a clear spark when you ground the plug and turn over the engine.

 

[mkov608]

Well, remember you have to ground the coil to charge it up, and then disconnect the ground to induce the voltage from the primary winding into the secondary winding (spark); do this rapidly. Simply grounding the coil for extended periods of time could fry the coil.

 

[ski-d00]

You can easily remove the Etorx bolts with a regular socket, doing it all the time when I'm too lazy to go back to the tool box. There's just enough room to remove the injectors, no zip ties cut or anything disconnected.

 

[lld]

Thanks to ski-doo and mkov608

I am not statically checking for spark firing. I am leaving the coil wires attached to the coil, the spark plug in the coil but out of the spark plug hole, grounding the body of the spark plug and cranking the engine to watch the spark at the electrodes. Basically, the same condition as it would see at startup with the spark plug in the engine. I couldn't see any spark.

However, now I am pretty sure I know why. I read that holding the throttle wide open at startup shuts off the fuel injection. I was holding the throttle wide open since I didn't want gas or fuel vapors in the engine compartment while I was cranking and checking for spark. Now I realize that holding the throttle wide open at startup probably shuts off the fuel and the ignition system, therefore no spark. I guess I need to be more thorough in my reading.

Next time I am up, I will check the firing of that cylinder without holding the throttle open, probably just put another spark plug in the cylinder to keep the gas and vapor primarily in the cylinder, probably overkill but a friend of mine suffered terrible burns by fumes igniting in the engine compartment.

It 's good to learn that a standard socket will work. Someone has already been "messing with" the fuel rails earlier in its lifetime since the heads of the bolts are a bit mangled, probably vice grips.

Next time, hopefully definitive answer on spark to the cylinder and fuel distribution. Thanks again.

 

[lld]

i thought of another simple question regarding the fuel rail and i am not there to take a look. Do i need to relieve the fuel pressure before removing the fuel line? If so, is there a Schrader valve on the rail , like many cars, or is there another simple method?

At the moment, i cant remove a fuse to shut off the fuel pump and run it till its out of gas, its out of the water and no water supply.

 

[lld]

I got up here early this morning. I checked the spark at cylinder#1, third from the bow, its good (now that i am not holding the throttle wide open).


Removed the fuel rail, none of the injectors were leaking. All three injectors are dispensing fuel, even the injector for the problem cylinders. Can’t really see or measure any distinct pattern in the fuel but the amount seems to be about the same for all three injectors.

So I have good compression, good spark and fuel going to that cylinder, timing is unknown and whether the fuel amount/pattern is correct is unknown.

At a loss, so i will just replace the injector for the problem cylinder. With a new spark plug, new coil and new injector, that’s about all i can do without more sophisticated equipment/software.