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Urgent Oil Questions

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Hiney

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I have a 2001 SeaDoo GS, two of them actually. I just purchased them this year. They are currently at my parents cottage and I am going up there this weekend. I have purchased new oil and fuel filters for them and plan to do this work this weekend. Two questions, first question is how hard is it to get all the air out of the oil lines once I change the in-line oil filter? And second question is how do I know what type of oil to buy? The machines currently have an oil that is blue in color in them. I stopped by a local dealer last night to pick up some oil, because I thought that the mineral oil was blue in color and it turns out that there are 3 different types of the XP-S oil, 100% synthetic, synethetic blend, and mineral oil. Do I just choose an oil and stick with it?

Thanks in advance for all the helpful responses.

Hiney
 
there should be a bleed procedure in the manual, just pinch off the oil hose and replace the filter.....follow what your owners manual calls for on oit for your ski.
 
If you can find out what kind the previous owner used. The rule of thumb is you can go from mineral up to synthetic, but not recommended to go in the reverse order.
 
I really do not understand why there is a procedure for getting the air out of the oil system, the oil pump is bottom fed from the oil tank and the tank sits higher then the pump so to me the air should bleed its self out, but maybe im wrong?
 
That is the reason that I am asking about the oil, the previous owner doesn't know/remember. Just said that he went down to the dealer and bought what they told him to buy.

I am trying to follow what type of oil that is in the manual. Problem is that it says BOMBARDIER XP-S synthetic or just BOMBARDIER injection oil. It doesn't say anything about 100% synthetic, synthetic blend or mineral. I have also read not to mix oils because it can cause damage. Just trying to do the right thing so I don't have troubles later.
 
They must have changed the specs in 2001 my owners manual is a 2000, look at page 38 in your operaters manual, it will tell you what to use. And just go with the oil it tells you to use.
 
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Custompartsguy,

Can you tell me where you got your information from you last post.
 
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That information I had posted was as per my 2000 owners manual, I looked up the 2001 owners manual and it confirmed as yours did, look at page 38 and just use the oil seadoo is telling you to use.
 
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I am in the same situation .. I just bought a full synthetic 2 stroke oil for a 2001 GTX DI and its yellow which surprised me. I thought it would be blue.. I checked the oil tank and it has a blue color too it. I am assuming the previous owner was using mineral oil.. is the bombardier synthetic yellow? are there synthetic that are blue? I know i bought the correct one because i checked the specs on previous posts and it says "for ISO EG-D, JASO FC and API TC" ..I also noticed that it's not as thick.
 
Oil color....

I am in the same situation .. I just bought a full synthetic 2 stroke oil for a 2001 GTX DI and its yellow which surprised me. I thought it would be blue.. I checked the oil tank and it has a blue color too it. I am assuming the previous owner was using mineral oil.. is the bombardier synthetic yellow? are there synthetic that are blue? I know i bought the correct one because i checked the specs on previous posts and it says "for ISO EG-D, JASO FC and API TC" ..I also noticed that it's not as thick.

You can't determine which type oil to use by color. That changes from brand to brand. Not everyone who buys a ski is using XP-S oils. They might be using Amsoil or Quicksilver........

But, your color oil is the new Synthetic that BRP switched to a year or two ago.

And Hiney.....XP-S synthetic is "full synthetic" and Injector oil is "synthetic blend"......

You can upgrade your oil system from mineral based oils but you can not downgrade your oil to synthetic or full synthetic. It is best to do a complete change out but to avoid complications, if your moving from a mineral based oil to Synthetic, then your fine. But, if your going to switch from Synthetic back to a mineral based oil, then you have to clean out the entire system.:cheers:
 
Seadoosnipe,

I bought the XP-S mineral for my skis. It says right on it that it will work on the Rotax engines with carburetors. Can you explain to me why you can add synthetic to mineral oil and you will be fine but cannot go from synthetic back to mineral without problems? How is the mixing of the oils any different?
 
Seadoosnipe,

I bought the XP-S mineral for my skis. It says right on it that it will work on the Rotax engines with carburetors. Can you explain to me why you can add synthetic to mineral oil and you will be fine but cannot go from synthetic back to mineral without problems? How is the mixing of the oils any different?
Hey bud, this is just as a vehicle, you can go to synthtic from non, but you cannot go back....well you can but you would have to clean out the system.....in these ski's they seem to be very tempermental with the types of oil used.
 
custompartsguy,

I not trying to be a pain, just trying to understand what the difference would be between adding synthetic to mineral or mineral to synthetic. To me, it seems like the mixing is all the same, so what is the difference? Is there a site that I can go check out so that I can better understand this?
 
Synthetic oil verses mineral....

Hiney, I'll try to be simple and quick on this reply, since this is a topic that has many threads in the forum already.

When you get down to the basics, it's about the molecular structure of the synthetic verses the mineral. When oil was made as a lubricant, it was a process where it was determined that if you keep this "dinosaur juice" flowing over a bearing surface, it would remove (or minimize) the heat which is created by friction.

With the synthetic oil, what science and technology did was to breake down the molecular structure and found that they could make oily (very slippery) molecules that locked together and bonded to the bearing surface to create a more slippery surface, therefore, creating a lot less heat.

Imagine the way a honeycomb fits together. This would be how the molecular structure of the synthetic oil looks under a microscope sitting on a bearings surface. Now, take a shotgun with bird shot in it and give that honeycomb a blast from the shotgun. See all the holes in it. Well, these represent the molecules of the oil that does not bind or lock together, creating areas of the bearing in contact with the surface.it a blast.

Now, to ask why you can go one way but not the other.....that is because, the detergents or additives of the mineral oil are compatable with the synthetics but the synthetic oil composition is not compatable with the mineral. This will basically apply to "full synthetic" and not synthetic blend, since synthetic blend is formulated with a mineral base stock, by most manufacturers, you are able to go back and forth. But for me personally, in my opinion, once you upgrade, why drop back down to something known to be a lower standard (that's in anything you do in life).

I don't know how to make this any more simple than that. I use full synthetic in my trucks, my ski and my boat. I do use mineral in my lawn equipment. And there are other applications that you can't use synthetic. But, for the most part, the synthetic oils are by design, the best lubricant made to make the life of a bearing last longer and keep from making so many deposits on valves and heads..............
 
I think the question Hiney was really asking is, why is it ok to poor synthetic oil into a reservoir that contains mineral oil, but you cannot poor mineral oil into a reservoir that contains synthetic without first cleaning the system completely.

His question was based on the following quote taking from Seadoosnipe's earlier response...

You can upgrade your oil system from mineral based oils but you can not downgrade your oil to synthetic or full synthetic. It is best to do a complete change out but to avoid complications, if your moving from a mineral based oil to Synthetic, then your fine. But, if your going to switch from Synthetic back to a mineral based oil, then you have to clean out the entire system.
 
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