Upgrading trailer to electric brakes... need to know the size of the bearings

[supergroove]

Hey there everyone! I just bought my 2002 Seadoo Challenger 2000/X2 a few months back and am slowly getting around to "tuning it up" in various ways. The surge brakes lock up when I'm on the road from time to time and my mechanic suggested he remove the hydraulic brakes and buy an electric brake setup from etrailers.com. I've done my research and it all seems doable (I've read Dr. Honda's post on how he did this). The cost of the brake kit is around $230 + $100 for the brake controller and another $105 for shipping to Hawaii... (no free shipping unfortunately).

My question is this: how can I determine the proper bearing size without removing a whole bunch of parts? I'm no mechanic but I need to make sure I'm ordering the right parts online before my mechanic shows up. I'm guessing 1 + 1/16" - part #L-44649... but want to make sure.

I also found a post where kustomkarl helped someone with a similar trailer but I think it was a smaller one... with 13" wheels - mine has 14" wheels - http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?8813-I-need-seadoo-trailer-spare-parts

These were the specs from that page:

HUB SIZE BEARING, RACE & SEAL SIZE MANUFACTURER'S #
1-1/16" Inner & Outer Bearing 1-1/16" #L-44649
5-1/2" Flange Inner & Outer Race 1-1/16" #L-44610
Spring Loaded Dust Seal (1.250 I.D.-1.985 O.D.) # 12192 TB​

Am I safe in assuming my bearing size is the same?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dr Honda]

Well.... I would love to say... "Use XXXX part". But the truth is... I've seen axles swapped, or just not what we though it would be. So... since you are in Hawaii... I would recommend pulling a wheel... and measuring the bearings.

It's really not that hard. Just a little messy. You don't even have to take the wheel off.

1) Remove the dust cap from the hub.

2) Remove the cotter pin from the nut.

3) remove the nut, and the fat washer behind it.

4) PULL !


At this point... the drum and wheel will just slide off the axle. But be aware that the front bearing will fall out if you don't grab it. AND... everything is greasy.

Once it's out of the way... wipe the axle, and measure where the bearings ride.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, you gotta measure else order twice and wasted time/money is 90% sure to happen. I prefer surge brakes over electric, for salt.

 

[Dr Honda]

............... I prefer surge brakes over electric, for salt.

The way they brakes work have nothing to do with salt water. You can still get plated electric brake parts... the same as surge brakes.

As far as the "Electronics" ... you can make the connections water proof... so that's not a factor. And the magnet in the drum is potted in plastic... so it's sealed up.



With that said... If I was going to be in salt all the time... I would sped the extra $$$ and buy the e-brake parts that could take the corrosive environment... but I'll never go back to a surge brake. AND... I will convert any trailer I get in the future.

Anyway... everyone is entitled to an opinion... but I bet if you converted... you would see my side. :thumbsup:

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Do a web search for trailer parts superstore; they send me a flyer occasionally and are always running specials like in free shipping and stuff.

I am with the Doc on this one. I need to back my SeaRay up a hill and around a corner to get it parked ... the first time when I was spinning my 4 wheels I realized I do not want surge brakes, but until I get the ambition to convert I just gotta remember to put the block in to prevent their operation.

No matter what though, you gotta do that thorough fresh water washdown if operating in salt water ... as soon as you pull the rig out if at all possible.