UPDATE!! (Post #43) - 1997 XP time capsule - please step inside

[KC97XP]

Hello there guys & gals - I am new to the Forum, and hoping this is the correct location to post and ask a few questions. My wife and I purchased an XP new in 1997, and hard to believe 27 years have flown by! The craft is in excellent shape, but (7) years ago the engine shut off in the middle of the lake shortly after having a major service at the dealership (I had everything gone through as what I thought would be preventive maintenance). Anyway, we moved to a warm climate (TX) and the XP sat in our garage for 5 years as life and work got in the way as they say. I have experience on "waking up" automotive engines - but none with the Rotax. So, any pointers you folks could send my way would be much appreciated! My plan thus far as a "pre-start" procedure is as follows:

• Pull the plugs and put some oil down in each cylinder
• Replace the plugs
• Replace the battery (what are you guys using these days?)
• Siphon the very small amount of fuel in the tank & add a gallon or two of ethanol-free fuel
• Check fuses

Lastly, as a side note the service I had performed at the dealership just before the XP conked out included replacing all the fuel lines, reed valve service, carb service, lubrication and a few other minor items (total was $2,500). If you are wondering why I didn't just take back to the dealership after the event I would have - but we moved 800 miles away, unfortunately.
Thanks for reading my long story, and I'll add a few pics below. Thanks and take care -

 

[burtshaver2021]

Your machine is in great shape, a few things that come to mind after reading your post are one, you mentioned a reed valve service, the 97xp has a 787 engine which wouldn’t have reed valves but a rotary valve, the only 2 stroke Seadoo engine to have reed valves is the 951. Everything you mentioned sounds great, but I would check your compression before putting any time or money into it. Hopefully the short trip on your last ride wasn’t due to any type of catastrophic failure but a compression test will tell you. It is quite possible that after sitting for so long you may need the carburetors rebuilt with genuine Mikuni parts and the fuel selector valve replaced. Before you attempt to start it, ground the plug wires to the grounding posts and crank the engine over just in case oil has leaked past the inner crank seals and filled the crankcase with oil. Good luck, hope you get to enjoy that girl again

 

[Grim]

IMO, Burt is right do the compression to see what shape engine is in first then I would do all the maintenance per the schedule in the manual, ie filters, plugs, checks. Take your time and get OEM whenever possible. Don't throw parts at it, a lot of time it will just complicate matters. I would do a carb rebuild with OEM Kit. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[KC97XP]

Thank you burtshaver & Grim for your replies and guidance - much appreciated! Regarding the compression test, what PSI do you believe I should expect to see if the compression is solid? Also, is there a recommended sponsor or site where you guys are purchasing the carb rebuild kit and manuals? Thanks again for taking your time to reply. Take care -

 

[burtshaver2021]

Compression wise your looking for 120 to 150 pounds and you want them to be within 5 to 10 percent of each other. Best place to get carb rebuild kits is osdparts.com Get the back to OEM kit. And you can get a manual for free from seadoomanuals.net

 

[tobytd]

787s HAVE reed valves…NOT rotary

 

[burtshaver2021]

787s HAVE reed valves…NOT rotary

Ummm, I don’t think so

 

[tobytd]

You’re right my bad

 

[KC97XP]

Hey there guys - okay, compression test kit and new battery secured. Also, found the "back to OEM" rebuild kit (thanks Burtshaver), and was just wondering if there are specific tools or options to add to the kit that would be beneficial for purchase. Thanks again for all the assistance, and really appreciate it! Take care -

 

[mikidymac]

Pop-off tester would be helpful.
I also like to replace the carb spring arms and pins.
I don't bother with the stainless Alan bolts for the carb kits.

I would also replace the inline oil injection filter, small oil injection lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold, change the pump oil and wear ring.

I would also put di-electric grease on all the connections on the front computer and fuse holder seal as the 1997 XP wha known to have issues with these plugs as water from the hood is always dripping on them.

 

[KC97XP]

Pop-off tester would be helpful.
I also like to replace the carb spring arms and pins.
I don't bother with the stainless Alan bolts for the carb kits.

I would also replace the inline oil injection filter, small oil injection lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold, change the pump oil and wear ring.

I would also put di-electric grease on all the connections on the front computer and fuse holder seal as the 1997 XP wha known to have issues with these plugs as water from the hood is always dripping on them.

Thanks for the tips, mikidymac! Checked fuses located in the nose of the XP (all were okay) but did notice that the top fuse slot was vacant. Don't know if this slot is for a spare fuse, but this is the way I received the XP back from the dealership after the last service. Also, is the main computer/PCB located between the top and bottom section of the front "hood"? I was reading on this forum that one potential cause of immediate engine shut-off (this is what happened to our XP) was that sometimes a solder break occurs on the main board. I read this many years ago and can't find the thread - but thought perhaps someone here will know more about this. Thanks for taking time to respond and offer your input!

 

[mikidymac]

The big black box in the nose is the MPEM (Computer). The big square wire connectors ar ethe ones that get corrosion where they plug into the box.

 

[KC97XP]

Hey there guys - quick update from today along with a few questions I could use your help with. First - after pumping out the old fuel, testing for spark (thanks BurtShaver), checking compression (180/185 PSI), installing a new battery, cleaning the fuel filter and adding fresh fuel - she started after only 2-3 taps on the starter. I couldn't believe it after (7) years. Not out of "the woods" yet, as I have not been able to let run for an extended period in order to bring up to temperature. But at least she idled on her own for about 5-10 seconds. I did not have a flush kit to hook up a water source, so that is the next item to acquire.

Next, my questions if you guys can pitch in:

1.) Does anyone know the p/n for the flush kit for the '97 XP so I can hook up the garden hose?
2.) My buddy noticed that the fuse panel cover is missing (see picture below). I had never removed, so guessing that the dealership neglected to reinstall after they serviced. Where would be the best source for this item?
3.) When attaching the starter lanyard, I hear the two "beeps" -but the volume is barely audible. What should I be looking for here?
4.) The fuel gauge is not working, so guessing it could be the fuel sending unit? Does this sound plausible, and is this located under the seat in what appears to be a round access panel?

Apologies for all the questions, but really trying to do everything the proper way.

Many thanks guys for all the support - appreciate it very much! Take care -

 

[Grim]

1. I looked in my parts manual (free online to DL) and it had the part number for the flush kit, I don't have your model. Get the parts manual and it will be in there. You can also just look up your model with flush kit on eBay, they are easy to find. But remember the hose kit will keep the engine cool but not the drive line so don run it long on the kit and make sure you never have the water running and the motor off, it will flood it. IE crank engine , turn on water, turn off water , stop engine after water is mostly out.
2. For the fuse panel cover, the parts manual will give you the part number. Then just search it up online.
3. As for the beeper I would locate it, normally at the steering wheel, and make sure nothing is covering it up. It could also just be worn out. If you want a loud one , they are easy to replace (parts manual again)
4. I am not familiar enough with your model to give you advise on where the sending unit is...but also look at the guage too , it could be damaged, they do rust out ....mine did. You could do the test and see if the sending unit is working, that is in the maintenance manual ( free DL online too)

 

[burtshaver2021]

If you haven’t already, have a good look in the hull for that fuse cover. There’s lots of hiding places in there.

 

[KC97XP]

Hello there Grim & burtshaver - many thanks for all the advice, and I'll locate the parts manual and start searching! Regarding the lack of a fuse cover, could the water have penetrated the interior of the hull and reached the fuses - thus causing the XP to shut down?
Lastly, my good friend helping me with this project has one of those "snake cameras" and after we checked out the cylinder walls we searched the hull for the fuse cover - but no luck. Thanks again, and I am learning a ton on this little project! Have a great week -

 

[burtshaver2021]

I couldn’t say for sure if water reaching The fuses would cause it to shut down or not, my guess would be that it could. When the ski was last driven did the hull fill up with water? Either way, if you have good compression spark and fuel then I would take it back out, maybe stay relatively close to the launch for the first half hour and go out with a buddy. If you do end up needing a tow pinch off the appropriate hoses so as not to flood the engine case. Instructions for that are in the manual, I believe it’s the water supply line that you pinch. Not sure if this has been mentioned but good idea to double check that the mark on the case lines up with the oil pump mark. I always run a 50:1 pre mix besides the oil injection in a new to me carbureted ski until I’m sure the oil injection is working properly, it’s really smoky though, so be warned in case your launching in a prestigious area. Maybe not a bad idea to go through the electrical connectors with some Deoxit,? Check the grounds are clean. Would be nice to know why it shut down on the last ride, but also be nice if it never happened again and we never find out.

 

[Grim]

If I were you I would pull each fuse and inspect for corrosion, in the slots.

 

[mikidymac]

Get a fuse cover and seal before you pit it in the water.

There is no "Flush Kit" for your ski. look at the back of the ski into the pump, you will see a 4-6" black plastic tube that has female hose threads in it, that is where you screw the garden hose into. Never have the hose ON with the engine OFF. Engine always has to be running whenever the water is on.

 

[KC97XP]

Hey there guys - thanks so much for the tips, and here is what I know thus far:
- It was 7 years ago that the XP stopped abruptly, and after the tow back to the dock there was no water in the hull.
- All fuses were pulled and checked, and none were corroded or burned. The fuse cover is missing so trying to source a new one online.
- I somehow was looking at the wrong threaded port (thanks mikidymac!) and will use the black plastic tube tomorrow when connecting the hose.
- On the first start-up on Sat (without water) the XP started on the 3rd press of the start button and idled as I remember from 7 yrs ago - couldn't believe it. The goal for tomorrow is to start, then turn on the water, run for 60-90 seconds, shut off the water, and blip the throttle a few times to clear the pipe before shutdown. Is there anything else I am missing, guys?

Lastly, is it okay to use the oil in the reservoir (7 yrs old) or should I pump out and add new oil? Thanks so much!!

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't rune it more than 60 seconds as you will burn up the driveshaft seal.
Only reason to run on the hose is to check for leaks and make sure hoses are clear. Nothing to gain engine wise from running on the hose, you already established it runs and idles.
I wouldn't worry about using the oil but I would change the inline oil filter and small 3/32" hoses from the oil pump to the intake manifold.

 

[KC97XP]

Today's Update - My buddy and I removed the saddle and then the fuel baffle from the tank this morning. The magnets were both in the float - but they were really disintegrating. Also, the float was 1/2 full of fuel - so guessing it wouldn't float freely with the added weight. We connected up the multimeter and moved the float in the baffle - but no change in the reading. So, not sure if the F1 fuse is good or not, but I think the first task will be to change out the float and see if that fixes the fuel gauge issue.
Also, there is a guy on the 'net selling refurbed fuel baffles for the '97 XP so maybe that would be a better path forward?
Thank you for the tips Mikidymac, and I'll replace the inline oil filer - thanks for the knowledge! Take care -

 

[mikidymac]

Get a new float.
To fix the baffle it is easy to remove the F1 fuse and bridge the circuit with solder.

 

[KC97XP]

I wouldn't rune it more than 60 seconds as you will burn up the driveshaft seal.
Only reason to run on the hose is to check for leaks and make sure hoses are clear. Nothing to gain engine wise from running on the hose, you already established it runs and idles.
I wouldn't worry about using the oil but I would change the inline oil filter and small 3/32" hoses from the oil pump to the intake manifold.

Hey there Mikidymac - per your advise I am purchasing the items above from OSD Parts. There is no pic of the inline oil filter, but below is the pic of what I believe are the 3/32" hoses for my '97 XP. Are these the hoses you are suggesting? Thanks so much -

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, those are the hoses.

BTW: my very first brand new ski was a 1997 XP. I installed a Group K sleeper kit on it and it would keep up with the 1998+ XP's. Loved that ski and still remember the registration numbers and look whenever I see one for sale, CF 3515 PB.