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Underpowered Islandia....again...

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Can't say I've seen that one before.

As far as the "Sucked up some rocks" comments... (unless I'm thinking of the wrong parts) that's just a cooling passage, so not rock damage would happen.


Anyway... if you can't find someone to weld it up for you... shoot me a PM. I closed my shop... but I can still weld aluminum.
 
I finally got the engine back in last weekend after getting the crack welded. The engine removal/installation was much easier that I thought, as I think it only took us about 2 hours to get it back in this spring. The boat started back up and we hooked up the engine flush kit to a hose and let it run for about 10 minutes with no water leaking! I tested the boat on the lake today and it ran great, and everything seems to be repaired. It even seems to run smoother, and I think that is due to the spark plug replacement. When I removed the engine I also replaced all of the spark plugs, which the bottom 2 (almost impossible to replace when engine is in boat) were much worse off than the top 4.....I'm guessing they haven't been replaced in quite some time. I had it up to 38 MPH today (slight headwind) at about 5500 RPM

I also had IMPROS re-weld the damage to the stator vanes that seemed to be causing my cavitation when under load. On my testing today, it seemed to have helped, but I only had one other guy on the boat with me. The real test will come when we have 4-6 adults plus kids, but it does seem to be better. I went from idle to full throttle very quickly and heard/felt no cavitation when I would have before, so I am feeling quite optimistic about this.


Since I've had all winter with the motor out of the boat to think about this crack, I'm wondering if this could've been caused by water freezing. I always keep the boat as nose-up as I can while it's on the trailer to help water drain out of the rear drain holes. This could cause water to sit in this part of the engine and not drain out. I leave it in an unheated shed in the Iowa winter, which usually gets down to about -20 at least a couple of times per year. I've probably been thinking about this too long, but with the extent of this crack, I'm wondering if this could've been caused by freezing water....
 
My Boat sits out all winter, under a tarp. The Merc engines are self draining... and shouldn't have an issue with cracking when frozen. (unlike the Rotax engines)

But, I'm glad you got it all back together.
 
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I have Aquaman's SS ride plate installed. It helped tremendously allowing a quick transition to plane.


Yep... the spec on the Merc engine is bigger than the Rotax boats. Under 20 thou, is good.

If you get the extended ride plate... let us know how it runs on the islandia.
 
I actually purchased it last fall, but I have not installed it yet, as I was thinking about selling it. I'm still on the fence whether or not I put it on, as I will probably put the boat up for sale here soon...

What is your measurement from bottom of the pump housing to the top of the plate? You say that it transitions to plane quicker, but what effect has it had on your top end? As of last night, on semi-calm water with about 500lbs of passengers/gear and full tank of fuel, I hit 38 MPH which is pretty normal I think.
 
I'll throw it on and see what happens. It doesn't look like there is much of a gap between your jamnut and the pump, so I'll try it with my normal (3 visible threads) "measurement" and see if it works.
 
As far as winterizing... I fill it full of gas & fuel stabilizer. Then I pour RV antifreeze in all of the drains, pumps & clean out. Start it for 2 or 3 seconds and then pour more RV antifreeze in the clean out.

My challenger had a gasket leak (expansion). We had a VERY long cold spell. My Merc mechanic said maybe it caused it. Maybe not but what can a little RV anitfreeze hurt?
 
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